Hurray! Things are happening! Boooooooo! They aren't good things!
So my left rear Ohlins blew out. Blew out bad. Needed a quick replacement to prevent further damage. Had a set of WRX stuff laying around so i rigged up one WRX strut on that corner. Not too proud of it.
Plan is: limp it like this until I can get some stock stuff, throw stock stuff on, pull Ohlin's and get get them rebuilt by FEAL.
The first mod people do.. and after almost 5 years of ownership I decided to do it. I've had new type R (a type RA with the A cut off hehehe) trim waiting with tail lights for a while. Found out my driver's side tail was leaking, so I said "now is the time" and tossed em on.
I figured it had been a while since I did a job and took way too many pictures doing it, so here we go!
Gotta have a proper seal..
Sorry for the dirty car.
Initial Reactions: I dig it. The clear goes very well with the blue. Did a bulb check and everything looks good to go! JDM +1
So, I caved in and bought a programmer from China. Finally arrived and I did some really neat things last night:
-Pulled out the JDM STi EEPROM, got the hex dump from it
-Socketed the JDM STi cluster I have to make it easy to pull out the memory
-Got the hex dump from the UKDM cluster I had
Also, confirmed a few of my suspicions about what hex values were what. I was able to change where the controller sends the speedo signal to, and can reverse the tach and speedo.
Basically, the VSS signal goes into the cluster, and controls the speedo. By keeping the input the same, changing the controller, the output was changed. Very neat stuff.
Video below, sorry for the crappy single hand work:
After I got really excited about doing that, I played with some values that I thought might be the scalar values for the speedo motor, I WAS able to scale back/forward the speed motor given the same frequency input. This is huge, however I am not convinced the byte is a multiplier just yet. I feel as though it may be an offset value for the speedo motor. More testing to come soon when I can find some time.
Here's a small video of me modifying the speedo output:
Still haven't had time to put the stock stuff back on. My alignment is so bad right now too and I can just feel me eating up tires in the worst way.
Classes are finishing up this week, finals are next week, and I am still coordinating logistics with a new job, and summer classes start the 2nd week of May. So... HOPEFULLY once all that is worked out/settled in I may find myself with some time.
Season AutoX Solo opener is this weekend, and unfortunately the day before a final so I won't be able to go..
I've been crazy busy recently too. My FXT's FEAL revalved struts appear to have blown at least the fronts out over the course of less than a year. They have yet to get back to me on it too, I'm kind of disappointed with them so far.
That cluster work you're doing is impressive! Do you have any objectives for it, or are you just tinkering?
I was able to do a lot of datalogging and simple math + guessing in excel, shown below. Few things blotted out because secret, even though it's probably easily figured out.
After that I played with it some more and was able to compare it to my unmodified UKDM cluster. Pretty damn good!
Seemed to be a little off at anything past ~140mph due to limitations in memory... but that is something I think I can work on. Either way, if you're going over 140 you're typically not concerned with looking at your speedo.
After that I still had some trouble with the odometer scaling improperly. Combated this by being a bit cheaty and flashing on a UK rom, modifying it with my custom scalar, then swapped the bit values that move the cluster/tach around. Boom, works like a charm.
At an indicated 60mph on the JDM cluster, it took 1:02.xx to go 1 indicated mile on the odo. NOT BAD! And that is with my completely eyeballing speeds. Pulse-wise, I'm confident it's perfect.
I also confirmed and the tach is working as intended!
Here is a video demonstrating what i've accomplished so far:
Sorry for talking softly, it was past midnight and my roommate was sleeping.
Tomorrow I'll slap it all together and toss it in my car to GPS confirm it and see how it reacts with tire/wheel setups. Nonetheless, a HUGE step forward!
Small bit of testing on the cluster today... unfortunately I ruined the tach needle upon reinstall so I am unable to confirm it's working properly (though it appears to be, just sticky because it's pushed in too far).
Cluster read 1-2mph higher than GPS (via Waze app) was reading at 20, 25, 30, 35, and 40mph held steady. Given the discrepancies in both the tach, tire/wheel combo and GPS signal I think this is an amazing result.Waze has always read speed 1-2mph lower than my OEM RS cluster, so this result makes sense. I will need a copilot and some more time (and a working tach) to test higher speeds.
I also compared my (short) drive with Google Earth to confirm if the odometer was counting properly. Looks to be SPOT on. The cluster counts pulses for odo data, so I figured this would be spot on no matter what.
So now I am on the lookout for a new cluster for personal use mostly.... and to confirm tach works properly.
Next step, which I've already begun is to talk to a friend of mine who owns a vinyl printer/cutter/sticker maker to get some style proper MPH stickers to cover up the, now useless, km/h markings on the overlays.
Finally got around to getting some quality speakers just in the front. I had ordered the rears as well but ended up being on back order so I'll get those some other day..
Anyways, Polk Audio 6.5in speakers. Install was that of any aftermarket part... kinda of a pain in the ass. It all eventually fit with me drilling out the given adapters and soldering in some plug in harnesses.
As far as audio quality, they are AMAZING with treble and mids, but as with any 6.5in speaker sort of lack in lows. Only so much you can do in a small door. Thinking of getting my under seat sub a new speaker and possibly adding in another sub under the passenger seat. Either way, I do LOVE them. Quality speaker for a great price.
Some install pics:
I think I need to readjust the diver's side tweeter cone.. but it's low on my list of priorities.
I've had my 2.5 RS a couple of months now and I've decided to start a build thread, hoping it's going to help me get this thing over the finish line.
This RS is my 4th Subaru
My first was a Catalunya special edition, the car I wish I still had, hence the mid-life crisis build :D
2nd was an...
picked me up another chassis. $600 and it runs, mostly!
Still have the ej20g, gearbox, RobTune and iWire harness, stance coilovers (I had just bought to replace my godspeed crap) and lots of other parts... so here we go again!
From the ashes, she will rise!
past build for...
Bought it as a 2012 Christmas/New Years gift to myself after my old cars transmission decided to **** out the counter shaft in the transmission. It had 186,000 miles and was bone stock. I'm sure the automatic transmission assisted in its easy life.
As of Aug,2016 it has 236k miles on...
The story of this car starts in a galaxy far away and probably not interesting to anyone. It was born in Japan, sold in USA, been to Canada and later shipped to Russia. From there it traveled to Germany to hit the "green hell". It has been through many stages and transitions of identity crisis...
HAPPY THANKSGIVING DAY
ID Vehicle: To simplify repairs/fixes/etc I'd love to know the cars history.
Main focus: handling, functionality, reliability.
End goal, yes the beaten horse "22b" exterior styling.
Technical Research (I'll post all my reading/research material links here)...