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Old 08-17-2017, 07:40 PM  
They call me Garrett
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Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Detroit, Michigan
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GD Rear Subframe, STi Pink Pillowball Lateral link + Solid endlinks, Red 4/2pots + rear hubs, Hawk DTC-30 pads + Centric rotors

So this was a task.

Decided to go ahead and start yanking things off the car last weekend because I needed a reason to drive the 07 STi more.

First things first, the bits of the parts pile:

(not pictured, lots)

Breakdown of parts:

-GD rear subframe + diff mount. It's mint, bought it on ebay for $100 shipped
-STi pink GC specific (so no crazy rear camber/toe) pillowball lat links, bought them new on Japanparts
-Hawk DTC-30 and Centric Rotors, should be a good compound for the track, if they don't do well on the street I have some other pads I'll swap on and use the DTCs for the track only.

Started with the fronts because I didn't feel like diving straight into ripping everything off, and the job is an easy one. Swapped the fronts out and that was that. Lots of caliper grease and antisieze.

Nevermind the taped ABS sensor, I still need to swap it and will do later.

I am in love with the red. It contrast every other color so well and allows me to fulfill my 12 year old me's dreams without being completely out of touch with what looks good.

Moving right along to the subframe.

Decided to take it all out in one foul swoop, and doing so was the proper way to do, it also had it's challenges. Now, my car isn't rusty.. like.. almost anywhere as far as GCs are concerned, however, all of the body bolts have been on/off a LOT of times, and silly 18-19 year old me didn't like the use antisieze, and as time goes on the dirt that got into the threads moves and grinds away the paint/coating and turns into rust. So what I found was that a LOT of the weld nut on the frame were super rusty, while everything else around it remained okay. This led to me breaking a T brace mount weld nut.

Not a huge deal, I've dealt with this before on rustier cars and cut the hole in the rear seat mounting metal, but it stung a little bit to have to cut up my car. But... I did

Sorta just guessed about where it should be, and did a damn fine job if I do say so myself.

I then moved on to getting everything else off, and ended up breaking a rear subframe weld nut. Ouch. Wasn't happy about this, but more holes needed to be done so I went in. It had been a while since the car decided it wanted to be a jerk to me anyway.

Thanks to Steven and his far more in depth adventure into dealing with rust (seriously, go check out his build thread.. he's insane.. in a good way) I was able to drill from the top and nail the nut placement.

Little more opening to be able to access through the three layers of metal..

Not super pretty, but it is functional.

Got that nut off and dropped the rest of the subframe down.

Okay. Now it's easy.

Simply built it all without removing parts of the diff.. and popped it back in.

The hubs I had came with 2 pots on them, however I wasn't sure what exactly they were from. I don't believe they were USDM, and the tone ring had the same number of ticks as my old hubs. It had ABS sensors but they were chopped so it was a relief that the axles and ABS sensors were the same.

I think they were from a V6 STi.. but will forever be unknown. Either way, they work and that's what matters.

Popped it up in and lined it up. I was able to get 2 bolts on, however the hardware or the others were absolutely junk, and I wanted to get the proper retaining washers for the subframe. I didn't have parts on hand so, the jack stayed.

2 pots went on without hassle and everything bolted right up. Awesome, no more brake fluid to drip all over.

Called the Subaru dealer on Monday and I was able to get two new bolts in on Wednesday. While I was waiting another package came in with more parts (just some ball joints and a few OEM things). But, I got to drive this around a bit for an evening.. so.. neat!

And for those of you wondering: Yes it's slower than the RS (and probably the 07 STi, but it would be much closer). The adjustable damping is AWESOME, but I'd like more control over it. The seat position and visibility was garbage, the pops the exhaust makes were cool, and everything else was pretty meh.

Moving along..

New parts

(just an air filter and coolant hose clip for the airbox, but it was easy to put em in)

I was also able to paint the bare metal, and use some sticky tar strips to cover up the holes. We used these when I worked at Denso as some sound deadening and sealing for TXV valves on the outside part of the HVAC, so.. good enough for that.. good enough for me.

Car finally made it back on to the ground and I finished up putting the e brake cables in and the interior back together tonight.

I guessimated on what toe needed to be set at, and I was alllllll off, so I'm sure I'll mess with it some more. Until then, I need a spare person to bleed the brakes (dad is out of town off getting my little brother to his first year of college, woo!) and then I can drive and see if I wasted the time and money!

Notes of Merit:

-I love the red 4/2 pots
-I'm glad I used the right hubs, however I think one may need a wheel bearing
-Solid endlinks were a MUST in the rear, pronounced and repeatable understeer needs to be reduced and this was the right way to do so without changing other aspects of the car.
-Non seized lat link bushings should make the back of the car rotate better, and make suspension installs easier
-GD diff brace should reduce drivetrain wobble (more to come on this)
-2 pots gave me better pad choices for the rear. Didn't care about anything else really.

Super excited to drive the car after a week of fat GD luggage.

Tuned Detroit - Automotive Blog, check it!
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