[Jake]

You'll need to go to the blue label svx sensor and red 285cc injectors to take the board out. You'll need to reconnect the resistor-looking component at J1 on the board. I may have left it, but I am not sure. I can tell you that the weird debris on your ecu is likely a remnant of when the car sat with the windows down and the ecu laid out in the rain.

I have been making bespoke chip boards for these, I could probably let one go to this car. Good luck sorting it out!

 

[EazyERich]

Twin Turbo H6

I figured since this thread is still going strong I would chime in with my H6 swap success.

Standalone ECU achieved, turbos in the pipeline.

EG33 Impreza - Coils 'n' stuff - YouTube

 

[Jabbott126]

Easy your car is sick Cant wait to see it finished. Currently trying to tie up loose ends on my eg33 swap in my 97 legacy. your an inspiration!

 

[Jabbott126]

So I've got the swap running (92 eg33) but I'm having issues with my o2 sensors. From the sheets I got from the FSM the ecu pi out list shows I'm supposed to be getting 0.6v on IGN On and 1.0v while engine is running. Currently I'm reading 0.3v on both sensors with ignition on and not much more than that while the engine is running. I replaced the o2 sensors first with Bosch's and now with Denso's. Both of them have not been operating properly. I recently just put a wideband in the exhaust to test if the engine was actually running lean or not. The afr Stayed at 14.8 for around 30secs and then once the ecu caught up it went pig rich and spiked the gauge pass 18. Any suggestions on what to check.

 

[Fetus Destroyer]

I just finished my swap,

I used a Z32 MAF, Nissan 370CC injectors and Delta 264 camshafts on stock valves and springs. I also have the fuel maps for Z32/370cc

It's running a bit rich EG33 running a bit rich - YouTube

It pukes flames and won't hold an idle.

I tried unplugging the MAF, o2 sensors, creating a massive vacuum leak. Any ideas?

 

[SoCoNoHa]

I'd bet it's those larger injectors. The ecu doesn't know they're too big so it runs the normal duty cycles, which is way too much fuel. AFAIK the larger MAF just has a higher threshold of air it can read. I think you need an ECU from LAN over on SVX World Network. Or stock injectors/MAF.

When I dropped in larger injectors for my turbo, I used a potentiometer in the MAF signal to the ECU. Worked pretty well for free engine management.

Edit: Just saw that you have the fuel maps for the MAF/injectors. In that case idk.

 

[Gene]

I just finished my swap,

I used a Z32 MAF, Nissan 370CC injectors and Delta 264 camshafts on stock valves and springs. I also have the fuel maps for Z32/370cc

It's running a bit rich EG33 running a bit rich - YouTube

It pukes flames and won't hold an idle.

I tried unplugging the MAF, o2 sensors, creating a massive vacuum leak. Any ideas?

Holy crap that is "a bit rich"....

I'd bet it's those larger injectors. The ecu doesn't know they're too big so it runs the normal duty cycles, which is way too much fuel. AFAIK the larger MAF just has a higher threshold of air it can read. I think you need an ECU from LAN over on SVX World Network. Or stock injectors/MAF.

When I dropped in larger injectors for my turbo, I used a potentiometer in the MAF signal to the ECU. Worked pretty well for free engine management.

When he says he has the fuel mapping for the z32 and 370 injectors it makes me think he has lan's stage 2 ecu chip. Though I could be wrong.

If he does have the stage 2 chip then he has at least one leaking injector/bad oring etc. What fuel pressure do you have? stock fpr? or afpr?

 

[Gene]

Another thought has crossed my mind you say reground delta cams and stock springs/retainers? maybe switch them out for stock cams and see how it runs? those larger cams and/or stock springs on them may be throwing off the timing?

 

[SoCoNoHa]

You're too quick Gene! I edited my post. I think you have the right idea.

 

[Fetus Destroyer]

Thanks guys!

I'm using the stock SVX FPR and LAN's stage 2 chip (if it's working).

I'll check for a leaking injector tonight and make sure I have a spark in every cylinder. Then switch out for the stock injectors, MAF and ROM. Really hoping I don't have to pull the engine again!

One thing I noticed: Pinching the fuel line made it run a bit more smoothly right before it stalled. It's simply dumping too much fuel into the cylinders. The problem is that I'm not sure why.

 

[Gene]

Thanks guys!

I'm using the stock SVX FPR and LAN's stage 2 chip (if it's working).

I'll check for a leaking injector tonight and make sure I have a spark in every cylinder. Then switch out for the stock injectors, MAF and ROM. Really hoping I don't have to pull the engine again!

One thing I noticed: Pinching the fuel line made it run a bit more smoothly right before it stalled. It's simply dumping too much fuel into the cylinders. The problem is that I'm not sure why.

if you can check the fuel pressure as well, Just to rule out very bad FPR or something silly. Also I would look into an adjustable FPR, a good one Ie expensive one just because the stock fpr is 36 psi, and ideally 42 to 46 psi for your upgrades.

 

[Fetus Destroyer]

I was able to drive around a bit. It takes about 30 seconds of cranking with the throttle wide open to start, and stalls when coasting with the clutch in. It threw a code, it's number 31, throttle position sensor...



Could a faulty TPS cause all of this?

 

[Fetus Destroyer]

I finally got around to pulling the injector connectors at idle.

It appears to be running on 3 cylinders. There's an extremely subtle effect when I unplug the injector on #1 and #4 and no effect when I unplug #2.

Front
2 - 1
4 - 3
6 - 5

I have extra ignition coils from the salvage yard,
I replaced the coil on #2 with no effect.
I swapped injectors from #2 and #1 with no effect.
I changed the igniter with no effect.

I also replaced the TPS with one from a yard and the code didn't change.
I think there's a fault in my TPS sensor wiring back to the ecu.

Edit:

I was able to verify spark and fuel on all cylinders, so I performed a compression test on cylinders 1 and 2. Cylinder 1 (being the one that stalled when its injector was unplugged) read 150+ psi.
Cylinder 2 was inconsistent and read between 20 and 30.

Both spark plugs were new when installed, now light brown. So we have combustion in that cylinder?

To eliminate the possibility of the timing belt being off a tooth, I pulled it all apart again.

The timing was fine.

Now there are a few possibilities that I can see:

1.) Perhaps the rings decided to catastrophically fail on a select few cylinders.

2.) There's another thread where someone has the exact same problem, but no conclusion: EG33 264's not working - NASIOC It could mean the 264 camshafts I received from Delta have incorrect lobe centers or separation.

3.) Delta could have machined the cams with solid lifters in mind. This could mean that a bit of runout on the cams combined with zero lash of the HLA is causing the valve to open at the wrong time.

3.) Could be stuck valves or collapsed lifters across multiple cylinders.

4.) I may just need to buy/make adjustable cam pulleys and degree-in these cams.

A leak-down test or boroscoping the cylinders is my next step, if it passes that, I will have narrowed it down to the camshafts.

 

[wagodsm]

the ez30 headers DO fit with modification. obx causes rubbing issues on GCs

 

[Gene]

I finally got around to pulling the injector connectors at idle.

It appears to be running on 3 cylinders. There's an extremely subtle effect when I unplug the injector on #1 and #4 and no effect when I unplug #2.

Front
2 - 1
4 - 3
6 - 5

I have extra ignition coils from the salvage yard,
I replaced the coil on #2 with no effect.
I swapped injectors from #2 and #1 with no effect.
I changed the igniter with no effect.

I also replaced the TPS with one from a yard and the code didn't change.
I think there's a fault in my TPS sensor wiring back to the ecu.

Edit:

I was able to verify spark and fuel on all cylinders, so I performed a compression test on cylinders 1 and 2. Cylinder 1 (being the one that stalled when its injector was unplugged) read 150+ psi.
Cylinder 2 was inconsistent and read between 20 and 30.

Both spark plugs were new when installed, now light brown. So we have combustion in that cylinder?

To eliminate the possibility of the timing belt being off a tooth, I pulled it all apart again.



The timing was fine.

Now there are a few possibilities that I can see:

1.) Perhaps the rings decided to catastrophically fail on a select few cylinders.

2.) There's another thread where someone has the exact same problem, but no conclusion: EG33 264's not working - NASIOC It could mean the 264 camshafts I received from Delta have incorrect lobe centers or separation.

3.) Delta could have machined the cams with solid lifters in mind. This could mean that a bit of runout on the cams combined with zero lash of the HLA is causing the valve to open at the wrong time.

3.) Could be stuck valves or collapsed lifters across multiple cylinders.

4.) I may just need to buy/make adjustable cam pulleys and degree-in these cams.

A leak-down test or boroscoping the cylinders is my next step, if it passes that, I will have narrowed it down to the camshafts.

When I said timing I did not mean the timing belt, I did mean as you mention the possibility of run out because of the weld/regrind process. But even more the cams need to be timed together, if the cam gears are off one tooth it starts and runs it just falls flat on its face if its off more then one tooth it might act like you have seen.
With the valve cover off look at the back of the cam gears

 

[SoCoNoHa]

the ez30 headers DO fit with modification. obx causes rubbing issues on GCs

Are GC's different than GM's underneath? I have OBX headers and they clear everything without issue. Mated up to a modified 02 WRX catback.

They DO rasp like a sunovabitch tho. 3K and up sounds like complete ass from the front and side of vehicle. It could be a leak, but I've been all though the exhaust and I can't find it.

 

[Patrick Olsen]

the ez30 headers DO fit with modification. obx causes rubbing issues on GCs

Are GC's different than GM's underneath? I have OBX headers and they clear everything without issue.

I had to modify them on my BD, which should be essentially identical to an Impreza underneath. The driver side of the Y would've made hard contact with the transmission crossmember:

(That's with the header just loosely in position - it really needed to be sitting higher, which it couldn't do because of the crossmember.)

I put a short extension in the passenger leg of the Y to move that junction towards the driver side a bit, which then made things fit better. It's just clamped in there for now, but will be welded up if the car ever runs and can be driven to an exhaust shop.

In addition, there's very little clearance to the sway bar and steering rack boot on the driver side, so I'll have to remedy that.

 

[SoCoNoHa]

The driver side of the Y would've made hard contact with the transmission crossmember

Well first off, I have to thank you Mr. Olsen. I've referenced your informative posts across multiple forums more times than I can count.

And second, that's darn interesting. I was expecting some resistance, but the headers fit like a glove on my Impreza, and they seem to have a crossmember almost identical to the Legacy's. I haven't actually compared them side by side tho.

Edit: According to a quick Google search, all the 5mt EJ's used basically the same trans mount, with some (STI) more reinforced than others.

Why mine fit idk. :screwy:

 

[Patrick Olsen]

Well, I didn't think of the fact that I've got an STI 6MT in there. Is the tranny crossmember different for the 6MT vs 5MT? If so, that would certainly explain why my fitment is different from yours.

 

[pitcrew]

How much does the EZ30 H6 weigh?

EZ30 and EJ25 engines. Same day, same scale, same accessories:

2001 EZ30D 376lbs
2001 EJ25 264lbs