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RS Suspension Bushings/Chassis Over-Haul

11K views 27 replies 14 participants last post by  ride_bmx38  
#1 · (Edited)
My RS is just about to turn 12 years old. I'm the first owner, and I have noticed a significant performance loss in the stability and suspensions. Over the years she has started to creek and loosen up around the corners. So I have decided to do an over-haul of the chassis and suspension. I thought that the bushings would be a good place to start, and while I was at it maybe upgrade the bushings to polyurethane.

I've done searches all over the net and couldn't find a comprehensive list of all the suspension bushing needed to do the over-haul. Also, it seems that there aren't many companies out there that make bushing for our GC chassis. Correct me if I'm wrong. Subaru OEM, Whiteline, Energy Suspension, and PowerFLEX were the only ones I could find. Energy suspension was one of the worst, by the way, they don't sell the bushing separately and they only make it for the 02+ GD chassis. It's also not a true master kit, because most of the bushings are not available.

So I made a spreadsheet with descriptions, brand, part numbers, and included images. I up-loaded an image of the spreadsheet and images for everyone to reference.

If you see any mistakes, or would like to add something please PM me.

-George
RABIDBYTE
 

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#3 ·
TiC is completely overpriced, as are many. Use Prothane. They are Energy Suspensions manufacturer minus the rice packaging. Also a half to third the price. For some reason most don't know about them, including this site, because they don't sell at Autozone or have a gimmick name/advertising. Google it and you can find/order stuff easy. Also, a lot of GD stuff is the same/works. Big exception being the diff carrier.

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#4 ·
you can build a complete kit, but not buy one... Like ThatGuy said, start with ES/PT and work from there..

You'll end up with front lower control arms, rear trailing links and rear inner lower link bushings... They don't often come with the outter bushings because it's such a PITA to get the outters apart.. As well as some sway bushings...

All will help a LOT.. I love this mod, but there are quite a few you DON'T get, that's for sure.. .

Rear diff, rear outrigger, trans crossmember...ect... which you can part together with whiteline (whiteline has the most complete selection)
 
#5 ·
well for one TiC isnt polyurethane, these energy bushings are. i have looked at energy bushings in the past and definitely wasnt convinced. One they mainly produce muscle car and truck bushings, not exactly track or autox material vehicles.

if your gonna get polyurethane that just go whiteline, proven to be one of the best.
 
#8 ·
yeah i got a REALLY good deal on them so i cant complain. all i honestly needed was lateral link bushings and trail arm bushings and the person i got them from included hub bushings and control arm bushings so i cant really complain. i like all the bushings to be matched with brands too. havent had them on the car yet but im sure ill notice a difference from a car with 135k on it and stock parts.
 
#9 · (Edited)
Prothane's stuff is 'ok'. I've used it before, I would not put it on par with Whiteline if for no other reason than noise and lack of comprehensiveness.

SuperPro makes great stuff but it isn't cheap and it isn't exactly 'readily available'. But they make great stuff

Whiteline, to me, is the best value and is generally pretty available

The most complete kit is far and away the STi Group N. But it's also exponentially more expensive than anyone else's and not stocked stateside save for maybe a few isolated part #'s. This is the kit I used on my car back in 1998 when my car was brand new, and it totally transformed it even in that state.

We offer em all so its not like there is any brand pushing agenda on this end but, the above are just my observations
 
#15 ·
I'm not sure what your "kit" includes, but this is what I paid to my local dealer, with the exception of the rear Group N top hats. Those I sourced from Rallispec.

All Group N, and part numbers can be added if needed.

Motor mounts=$55x2=$110
Transmission mount=$65
Pitch stop=$42
Trailing arm=$20x4=$80
Lateral links=$20x2 and $17x2=$74
Front top hats=$62x2=$114
Rear top hats=$71x2=$142
Aluminum front lateral links to replace "taco links"=$72x2=$144

Grand total=$771
 
#16 · (Edited)
The Group N bushings are divided into 3 families: suspension links, strut tops and engine/trans

The price I quoted above is strictly suspension links and manyare not offered from the dealer - we get em direct from Japan: front control arm bushings (both sides), Transverse Link Bushings, rear lateral (both fore and aft of axle, both sides, inboard and outboard), and trailing links (both hub side and "front" side), rear x member bushings, rear swaybar bushings, all the rear differential bushings.

From there, a customer can add motor/trans mounts (2 different types offered), pitch stop, front and rear upper strut mounts.
 
#17 ·
The Group N bushings are divided into 3 families: suspension links, strut tops and engine/trans

The price I quoted above is strictly suspension links and manyare not offered from the dealer - we get em direct from Japan: front control arm bushings (both sides), Transverse Link Bushings, rear lateral (both fore and aft of axle, both sides, inboard and outboard), and trailing links (both hub side and "front" side), rear x member bushings, rear swaybar bushings, all the rear differential bushings, and the Group N rear diff mount

From there, a customer can add motor/trans mounts (2 different types offered), pitch stop, front and rear upper strut mounts.
I see.
Can you explain what the Group N rear diff mount is?
Perhaps a picture?
Or are you referring to the two bushings where the diff attaches to the rear cross member?
 
#27 ·
those make a huge difference, no doubt...but the stiffer your springs/coils get, and the better your diffs are, the more the stock rubber bushings limit you. These bushings can now easily be 20 years old and 100k+ miles. All down to useage for the intended project
 
#26 ·
the Beatrush brace is a pretty neat piece, we've carried it before - quite stiff at a 90a durometer. Fits GC, BD and BG Legacy

for those looking for hard core spherical bearings to swap out most of the rubber suspension bushings (not the rear diff), we offer those too - just super pricey
 
#28 ·
I agree with you. It all depends on what you will be doing with your car.
I daily drove mine with the stock EJ251. Adding stiffer bushings to the drive train increased my acceleration time, allowed me to shift faster and made the car feel solid.
Made it alot more fun to drive!