[jeffsnyder]

once you bed the used pads to the new rotors you shouldn't have a problem.

his pads are used to the warping of the old rotors, and taken the shape of the old rotors. change the pads.

steering wheel vibrates = front.
brake pedal vibrates = rear.

go to autozone and pic up some duralast golds and slap em on. problem solved. they shouldn't be more than 30 bucks.

 

[Skidd]

What about bad alignment? Could be that braking puts a force on the alignment that causes some sort of back-and-forth feedback through the wheel?

What about in reverse? Does braking in reverse cause any change in the shaking feel? Not that I know what that could mean, but it could indicate something.

 

[gongeuzler]

Never do just pads, or just rotors, always do both. Never turn a rotor, why pay to take more surface area off, they arent that expensive, buy new ones. Always torque your wheels evenly, always bed your pads in properly.

once you bed the used pads to the new rotors you shouldn't have a problem.

Im sure it's worked out for some, but thats something ive never believed to be true. The cause is pad material being transferred unevenly to the surface of the disc. New disc, same old pad, same issue.



Buurma, its a long article, but lots of good info.
StopTech : Balanced Brake Upgrades

 

[STIll inspired]

i believe it would be a tie rod issue or a cv axel issue

 

[Circaisdashiat]

Did you change pads and rotors on all 4 corners?

Im having the same issue with both my brothers MY2000 RS and my girlfriends MY2000 Legacy. I changed both their front brakes and it still does it at freeway speeds, so im gonna assume its the rears, which i havent got around to changing.

Also i know the steering rack is bad in the legacy, but the RS is fine...

 

[Flubyux2]

Check the steering rack bushings too. If the bushings are totally shot and the rack and be moved by hand, it's very possible that caster is causing the wheel to shimmy like a shopping cart and without the steering system completely solid, it will be unable to control that shimmy. I've seen it first hand in my friends 1jz-swapped Cressida.

And pads dontget used to warped rotors. Slidin calipers move on the pins to accommodate the runout and the pistons move to accommodate thickness variations (material deposition or stamping). Pads don't get a surface left on them froma rotor. Pads are being expended constantly uncovering fresh material all the time. There's a transient layer of friction material that's always shedding away at the pad/rotor interface. So old pads CAN be used on a new rotor. The rotor just needs to be seasoned with a new layer of pad material: bedded in. BUT! if the old rotor had grooves or surface irregularities, the old pads have worn in the same manner. So the pads will not have 100% surface contact initially. So braking performance will be greatly hindered. And if the pads are well worn already, they won't last long, especially if you have to wear down the old surface profile to return proper pad contact on the new rotors. But for $20, just get new pads...

 

[Buurma]

once you bed the used pads to the new rotors you shouldn't have a problem.

now that 50 miles are on my car there's no problem..

probably going to put some duralast golds on there since george suggested em.

gongeuzler thanks for the article i'll look it up when i get some free time. work's been killer lately!

 

[George.of.the.Jungle]

Im sure it's worked out for some, but thats something ive never believed to be true. The cause is pad material being transferred unevenly to the surface of the disc. New disc, same old pad, same issue.

you are correct. it's not true that pads will not conform to a rotor. i do 15-20 brake jobs a day and every single time we reuse a customers pads that are 50% or better, and replace only the rotors..they pulsate until the pads have worn flat..which can be anywhere from 500-1000 miles or so.

 

[Buurma]

THIS is why i love rs25

bam

 

[drpsnwbrdr]

Now that i put 14 more miles on the new rotors its not doing it so bad. but now its shaking some when i'm driving, only at 50-60 mph. probably does it at higher speeeds too but i didnt go faster than 60 lol

Okay so now its not as bad? but still only does it when braking? or now it only does it on high speeds while brakeing? coasting or accelerating? Well I know that when I get vibration in the steering wheel at 65mph, its cuz the rims are not mounted on the car properly (i.e.rims matting surface is warped or not torque propery), or the wheels/rims need balancing.

now that 50 miles are on my car there's no problem.

Or problem solved?

 

[Scrapy Doo]

THIS is why i love rs25

bam

The truth!

 

[Buurma]

so far problem solved. still great imput in this thread i think.

thank you rs25!

 

[jeffsnyder]

so far problem solved. still great imput in this thread i think.

thank you rs25!

also don't forget to check and retorque your lug nuts again.


they always seem to loosen up for me after a few hundred miles

 

[Awdturbo]

Crap mine is doing this crap. I got new calipers new rotors new pads all around, everything I know was put back right :/ now I just tap the brakes and the front shakes like crazy felt from pedals to steering wheel -_-

 

[Buurma]

^^ did you "bed in" your pads and new rotors? drive and lightly slow down, let them cool, slow down again softly. do this a bunch of times.

 

[Awdturbo]

I started yesterday hope it fixes it:/

 

[drsquib]

I'm not sure if anyone will see this because its such an old thread but I figured this was better than starting a new one. I've been trying to deal with this steering wheel wobble for months now. I started by changing pads and rotors at the same time. Then by changing brake calipers (and checking that the guide pins slide easily). Then control arm bushings (front and rear). Then inner and outer tie rods along with lower ball joints on the hub. Someone on here suggested the steering rack but common, wouldnt the tie rods be enough? Still wobbling. Anything anyone can think of that I'm missing? I feel like I'm running out of parts to replace.

 

[jeffsnyder]

i didn't notice you looked at wheel balance, try switching your wheels front to rear.

 

[drsquib]

Okay, I will try that and get back to you.

 

[drsquib]

I just got new tires and had them rotate all the wheels. Still the same pulsing, front to back, when I come to a complete stop. I dont know what to do.