I had this same thing happen to me when I changed my first clutch on the RSTi and I cannot for the life of me remember what the problem was. What I do remember was we pulled the engine at least three times and removed the slave cylinder a couple of times because it just didn't want to budge. If I remember what it was I'll chime back in.. sorry for not being a help.

 

What clutch fork are you using, 5 or 6 speed?

 

As far as I know its the 6spd fork. Its what came with the transmission. I did think of that since the previous owner had it swapped into an 02 wrx. I compared pics on ebay and it looks identical to other listed 6spd forks.

 

Check through this thread and make sure the 6 speed for is what you should use for you're whole setup. Im using a WRX clutch and I don't remember which slave cylinder but I wanna say we had an issue with the fork a d swapping g it around to the other fixed it. I know I'm being vague but I'm trying g to job the memory, it's been a while.

 

Great news we got it working. Pulled the pressure plate off the engine and installed the tob and the retainer ring and notice that the retainer was catching on the edge of the pressure plate. We reinstalled the pressure plate with the tob already in and slid the fork in the tob once the trans and engine were together. Everything came together great and we were able to bleed the clutch and everything works!! Thanks for the advice and help.

 

YES!! Awesome to hear, hope you cracked a cold one after getting that all sorted haha.

 

I am going from an 4EAT straight to a 6 speed. What transmission cross member should i use? the 6 speed trans mount does not bolt into the 4EAT tranny cross member. thanks!

 

You can use either manual cross member, 5 or 6 speed. You need to use the 6 speed trans mount in it though.

 

5 speed from a GC? Or GD wrx or sti? Is there even a difference between the GD wrx and sti trans x member? Tons of GD sti trans cross members on eBay so that would be easy to grab if it works.

Thanks!

 

I used my stock RS 5spd x member and a GD Group N 5 spd trans mount.

Just stay away from using an L 5spd x member, they're too flimsy in construction.

 

Just finished a complete STI swap with R180, 114 hubs/knuckles, RCE suspension, and brembos. The shop was doing a baseline alignment and completely pulled the rear axles apart! The tire is past the outside fender well. Does anyone know what I missed? The rear wheels should be much further in the fender well. I think they are a good inch or two off. Here is a link with some helpful pics.
Rearend

 

Wow, looks like some newb tried to fix excessive negative camber with the lateral links instead of the camber plate, yikes. This is why I do my own alignments... and don't let anyone touch my car.

If you don't have rear camber plates, you could use camber bolts.

 

I'm trying to get an idea of what a full STI driveline swap will cost. Any ideas?

 

Unfortunately this answer varies greatly. Are you buying an entire donor car? Are you buying just the needed components to swap it? Are you doing everything down to the brembos? What year are you gonna swap to? Are you doing your own work? Are you going from auto to manual or already manual? Add the cost of fluids and that varies depending on the brand and quality same with a clutch and flywheel. If you are buying a loose trans and components you dont know if the trans is in good condition internally and may have repair costs to add on. Add cash on top of it for the misc stuff you don't realize you need until it's not there.

It's a fun game to play

 

Awesome info.

My shop just finished swapping an 05 STi 6 speed with new Exedy clutch into my V5. Now the clutch pedal is really light (~50% lighter than my 05 STi with the same clutch and 07 6speed). They reused the V5 master and slave because they said RHD mc/sc looks different. Since OP lists 6 speed slave cylinder as a requirement, I'm thinking that may be cause of light clutch pedal. Could someone confirm this and explain why 6 speed MC is not required?

 

My buddy hooked me up with this jdm 6spd shift knob for the holidays Looks way better than the usdm. Can anyone help me ID which year/model this came from cause I don't actually know.

EDIT: btw, post count as of now = 666 :devil: lol

EDIT CON'T: not a jdm shift know, looks like 04 STI according to Chuck below.

 

Possibly a legacy gt? I have the usdm red sti knob and it is legit.

 

That's a 2004 STi shift knob, I believe it was offered until maybe 2007.

 

^ Ah thanks!

 

Thanks for the info! Will keep this in mind if I decide to keep my car

 

Is anyone in here running a single piece drive shaft? Been running an auto shaft in previous iterations, but want to make the jump to a 1 piece and ditch some weight/rotational mass while the drivetrain is out.

Wondering if someone running a single piece can measure the distance of their driveshaft, or perhaps someone with the drivetrain installed could just measure the distance from trans to diff.

My trans isn’t installed right now, and don’t want to just take measurements off the auto driveshaft as i want more accuracy in proper fit and finish.

Figured I’d ask here first. Thanks.


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My 95 has a 2011 6mt and rear diff. I am running the DSS carbon one piece and the correct length is their longer one. They have two versions and the version for the 93-01 is about a half to three quarter inch longer than their 02-07 version. You don't want extra yoke exposed, and you want as much spline engagement as possible. I accidentally bought the gd version and it fit but the amount of yoke showing made me ask them. They told me "It's only about half an inch...no big deal", but I sold it to a gd owner and bought the correct one. Half inch can be a really big deal if you shear it off during a launch.

Their driveshaft also doesn't have the protective cup over the yoke / which is crap, but I am considering removing one from an oem and using some good epoxy to bond it. The dimensions where it goes look the same, and it's not a stressed part so the epoxy will hold fine.

Sorry I don't have the exact length. Just mentioning in case you get into that situation, and for a free bump.

 

I hear you. I know the auto driveshaft “fits” which is what I’ve been using, but I’ve got a big boy motor and upgraded drivetrain stiffening and it only seems fitting to match with a proper driveshaft. Some local guys have had good results from Shaftmasters In their Supra’s and they’ll build me whatever i want after reaching out to them much less than what a carbon shaft will cost. I also don’t ball that hard, nor will i see anywhere near the speeds/HP that would require anything more. Weight difference is marginal, but i want to avoid hammering in my trans tunnel to make a 3” off the shelf shaft work.

Side note, i got my measurements from someone in a FB group. He measured 54.5” from u-joint flange to yoke hole. Going to see if i can score some additional measurements just to see if that’s what everyone else is doing.


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I hear you. I know the auto driveshaft “fits” which is what I’ve been using, but I’ve got a big boy motor and upgraded drivetrain stiffening and it only seems fitting to match with a proper driveshaft. Some local guys have had good results from Shaftmasters In their Supra’s and they’ll build me whatever i want after reaching out to them much less than what a carbon shaft will cost. I also don’t ball that hard, nor will i see anywhere near the speeds/HP that would require anything more. Weight difference is marginal, but i want to avoid hammering in my trans tunnel to make a 3” off the shelf shaft work.

Side note, i got my measurements from someone in a FB group. He measured 54.5” from u-joint flange to yoke hole. Going to see if i can score some additional measurements just to see if that’s what everyone else is doing.


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If you're running a "big boy" motor and want a "proper driveshaft", you need a "big boy" driveshaft. (Carbon fiber) The carbon shafts require zero tunnel modding and clear the exhaust better. They also weigh a lot less. Using a heavier single piece steel driveshaft will work, but it will need to be thicker to keep the size smaller and remain stiff enough not to flop around. An aluminum driveshaft will need to be even larger to keep proper stiffness. Either way, several places will make you a driveshaft to suit what you want.

 

Yes its super light and super stiff, personally id search for a used one and if theres ever an issue with it, DSS will replace it.

 

From a drivability standpoint alone, the carbon shaft was worth the bucks for me.

 

So I have a 2001 RS. USDM ej205 with stock RS 5speed and diff. I have 2004 sti brembos on, but stock hubs/knuckles.

I am purchasing a 2004 STI swap. It comes with the transmission, kartboy short shiter/linkage/shift knob, driveshaft, r180 diff, and all 4 axles. ($3k USD, components have about 40k miles)

As of right now, please correct me if im wrong, I know i will need a 2004 STI flywheel, clutch, pressure plate, slave cylinder, and rear hubs. I suppose the hubs means i need the whole rear hub/knuckle assembly. My front hubs/axles will be retained. Will my coil overs directly bolt up to the new rear hubs just fine? Is there anything I am missing?

I have the rear kartboy adapters for the brakes, I suppose i will no longer need those with the sti rear hubs as well.

I do apologize if I'm being redundant.

 

As of right now, please correct me if im wrong, I know i will need a 2004 STI flywheel, clutch, pressure plate, slave cylinder, and rear hubs. I suppose the hubs means i need the whole rear hub/knuckle assembly. My front hubs/axles will be retained. Will my coil overs directly bolt up to the new rear hubs just fine? Is there anything I am missing?

The flywheel bolts are actually a different part number, if you can get the bolts I would, otherwise the stock bolts will work. You are correct that you need the whole rear hub/knuckle assembly. You are also correct that your coil overs will directly bolt up to the 2004 STi rear hubs just fine.

I have the rear kartboy adapters for the brakes, I suppose i will no longer need those with the sti rear hubs as well.

Correct. Best of luck with the swap!

 

Hi Everyone, I'm pretty new to Subarus and car modifications of this magnitude, but I've read this whole thread and I'm taking the plunge. I found a 2005 STi with a blown motor and I'm buying the entire drivetrain to swap into my 1997 Impreza Brighton coupe. My car has a factory EJ18 and 5MT. I am trying to follow option #1, but I won't be doing an engine/ecu/wiring swap until I can save enough money to do it right.
-Does anyone know if the 6MT will bolt up to the lowly EJ18? I would like to get this running and driving with my stock engine and save for a better engine setup while I continue to educate myself.
-Do I need to take the clutch & brake pedal assembly, or will my 97 pedal assembly work?
-What clutch master cylinder should I use?
-What brake master cylinder should I use? My car was factory disc front, drum rear, NON abs.
-I need hydraulic clutch lines, right?
-I'd like to overhaul my brake lines, do I buy lines for a first gen Impreza, or an 05 STi? Do I need to fab up some kind of hybrid or use an adaptor?*
-I'm concerned about my track width. I bought a rear subframe from an 05 wrx sedan and (aftermarket) adjustable lateral links. What trailing arms should I use (GC or GD STi?) Should I use my stock front lower control arms, or the GD STi front lower control arms? Should I swap the front subframe/crossmember too?
-I'll be running the oem BBS STi 17" wheels that are 5X114.3.

1. Full STi driveline swap
STi 6 speed clutch I'm buying a new Exedy oem style clutch
STi 6 speed flywheel Should I buy a new oem flywheel? Or an Exedy lightweight? Eventual engine build plans will be 300hp or less.
STi 6 speed pressure plate I believe it comes in the clutch kit, FJK1000
STi 6 speed clutch slave cylinder Can I use the one from the donor car, or should I buy new oem? I think it was stock with 85k miles
STi 6 speed transmission Got it, anything I should do to it before it goes in?
STi 6 speed transmission mount Should I buy stock, or group N? This is most likely going to be a street car only
STi 6 speed shift linkage I have the complete linkage with Kartboy short shifter. I will replace bushings and the joint.
STi 6 speed drive shaft Got it, looks to be in good shape. Should I replace any hardware or u-joint as preventative maintenance?
STi front axles Have them, they look good.
STi front hubs Have the whole assembly off the donor car, not sure if I should replace anything?
STi R180 rear differential (final drive matching that of the transmission) Have it. Would like to paint it with POR 15 and replace the seals with new oem.
STi R180 rear axles Have them, they look good.
STi R180 rear hubs Have the whole assembly off the donor car, not sure if I should replace anything?
STi front and rear Brembos Have them, I would like to do a rebuild but I'll probably try them as they are first.
STi Brembo rotors front and rear Have them, and I'll probably try to use them for a while before replacing due to cost.

(If using '05-'07 hubs, custom coil overs are recommended to maintain proper suspension geometry to mate from the 5x114.3 bolt pattern to the GC top hat bolt patterns. These custom coil overs would be GC top hats with a '05-'07 STi bottom sleeve to mount to the hub) *I have the stock 05 STi struts, with some kind of tein lowering springs. I'm going to try to swap the rear tophats for early turbo legacy pieces (if available) to make it work till I dial everything in.

Any other things I should know?

 

-Does anyone know if the 6MT will bolt up to the lowly EJ18? I would like to get this running and driving with my stock engine and save for a better engine setup while I continue to educate myself. -

Yes, you can swap the drive train first. You will need the matching differential to the trans and an automatic driveshaft (I believe). Your best bet is to swap the trans and entire rear subframe/suspension together. Just pull the entire STI unit and put it in your car. Same thing for the front suspension/subframe.


-Do I need to take the clutch & brake pedal assembly, or will my 97 pedal assembly work?

Yes and yes. Being a 97, that's a cable clutch eh? There's a thread here on how to do a cable to manual swap, there might be cutting required.

-What clutch master cylinder should I use? STI
-What brake master cylinder should I use? STI
-I need hydraulic clutch lines, right? STI...errr get them from the swap.
-I'd like to overhaul my brake lines, do I buy lines for a first gen Impreza, or an 05 STi? Buy for your car.

Get the entire car.

1. Full STi driveline swap
STi 6 speed clutch I'm buying a new Exedy oem style clutch
STi 6 speed flywheel Should I buy a new oem flywheel? Or an Exedy lightweight? Eventual engine build plans will be 300hp or less.
STi 6 speed pressure plate I believe it comes in the clutch kit, FJK1000
STi 6 speed clutch slave cylinder Can I use the one from the donor car, or should I buy new oem? I think it was stock with 85k miles
STi 6 speed transmission Got it, anything I should do to it before it goes in?
STi 6 speed transmission mount Should I buy stock, or group N? This is most likely going to be a street car only
STi 6 speed shift linkage I have the complete linkage with Kartboy short shifter. I will replace bushings and the joint.
STi 6 speed drive shaft Got it, looks to be in good shape. Should I replace any hardware or u-joint as preventative maintenance?
STi front axles Have them, they look good.
STi front hubs Have the whole assembly off the donor car, not sure if I should replace anything?
STi R180 rear differential (final drive matching that of the transmission) Have it. Would like to paint it with POR 15 and replace the seals with new oem.
STi R180 rear axles Have them, they look good.
STi R180 rear hubs Have the whole assembly off the donor car, not sure if I should replace anything?
STi front and rear Brembos Have them, I would like to do a rebuild but I'll probably try them as they are first.
STi Brembo rotors front and rear Have them, and I'll probably try to use them for a while before replacing due to cost.

(If using '05-'07 hubs, custom coil overs are recommended to maintain proper suspension geometry to mate from the 5x114.3 bolt pattern to the GC top hat bolt patterns. These custom coil overs would be GC top hats with a '05-'07 STi bottom sleeve to mount to the hub) *I have the stock 05 STi struts, with some kind of tein lowering springs. I'm going to try to swap the rear tophats for early turbo legacy pieces (if available) to make it work till I dial everything in.

Any other things I should know?

You actually put thought into this. Well done. Answers in bold in your quote and here's my opinion/questions:

So you have the entire car at your disposal? Get the entire thing. At the very least get the entire drivetrain/suspension/subframe kit. It's maybe 20 bolts and the entire thing is out of the car. Then bolt all that into your car. You'll need electronics and wiring from inside the car as well to fully utilize the transmission.

You should start a build journal. I started a total swap with the picture below and it's the way to go. It's the way to go. Sell the 05 WRX stuff and just take everything from the STi. How attached to the stock interior are you? Have you considered a dash swap?

 

As said by everyone else, well researched! A few things I'd note:
You will need a new pedal box, your cable clutch pedal box is different from the 98-01 Impreza 2.5 RS hydraulic pedal box.

I wouldn't worry about the master cylinder right away. Having the smaller non-ABS master cylinder will give a bit more pedal travel, but the Brembo brakes will still function and have bite. If you want a firmer pedal later, look into the master cylinder upgrade specified above.

However, I would make sure that you find a non-ABS rear disc brake proportioning valve. This will prevent your rear brakes from locking up before the fronts and give you a correct brake bias. Another option would be to replace your stock proportioning valve with a manually adjustable one.

As for control arms and lateral links: If you plan to go turbo eventually, swap the front subframe as well. You will not be able to run the GD STi control arms without this. As for which track width to use, it's up to you. The wider track width requires rear GD lateral links, a front GD subframe, and front GD control arms. If you're going to run STi sway bars, I'd recommend this route. Otherwise, you can run the front GD subframe, front GC control arms with shims, rear GC lateral links, and GC aftermarket sway bars.

Axle wise, I am running GD STi axles with the GC track width in the rear, and the axles are compressed a bit, but do function properly. It may generate a bit of rear end noise, but it's hard to tell, as I have Whiteline diff bushings and the subframe lockdown kit installed as well. GD track front and rear will free them up, but I would not run a GD track in one end with a GC track in the other.

Regarding subframes, they do not appreciably alter your track width, that is done by the lateral links in the rear and the control arms in front. Choose them based on condition in the rear (rusty vs. newer, etc) and your choice of control arm and motor (turbo yes or no) in the front.

The fuel tank is up to preference, although from what I understand the STi tank has better baffling and the pump arm is better suited for high speed cornering. While I've not performed the swap on any of my cars, if I had the opportunity to do so I would.

 

I have a question that maybe somebody has an answer to, i just find it weird. So i did a complete drive train swap, you know the hole shabang. My weird situation is that before the swap it seems that it was a lot more room between the rear tire and the back bumper. after the swap it seem that i have almost no space and i'm limited the amount i can lower the car because of the tire rear bumper to tire clearance. any one wants to chime in?

 

Hey did you ever sort this out?

I'm running into the same issue myself, except for that I used 2005 STi everything, lateral links, trailing arms, kuckles, bearings, GD coilovers with GrpN GC hats, subframes etc

I tried the GD trailing arms first and the wheel and tire are off-center towards the rear bumper.

Then I bought Mooresport adjustable trailing arms and adjusted them as short as they'll go and still favoring the rear bumper.

'99 coupe if it is relevant at all.