Question: Does the bell housing actually rest on the engine crossmember/subframe? I lifted the trans up off the crossmember about an inch and was able to line up the bolt hole for the dogbone.

 

The trans end mount for the dog bone is slotted, when the motor and trans are together theres a half inch or so gap to the crossmember it doesnt sit on it.

 

I'm beginning to think it has something to do with your trans mount situation. The dogbone fits 93-2007 exactly the same. My 95 actually has an oem group N 2007 dogbone and oem group N 2007 engine and trans mounts. My trans is from a 2011 sti.

 

I double checked the transmission crossmembers are correct. Unless it has something to do with the 5 speed mount, idk. I did get the dogbone bolted up, but the bellhousing is sitting off the engine crossmember about an inch. Idk if that is correct, or if the bellhousing is supposed to sit directly on the engine crossmember. The engine is removed if that makes a difference. First time installing a subie transmission.

 

I think the fact that you don't have the motor in the car does make a difference because the bottom of your transmission is not connected to the studs coming off the bottom of the engine block side. If you had the motor in there the trans would sit up a bit higher. I'm pretty damn sure the trans is not supposed to rest directly on the x-member.

 

Thats the height it normally sits at when the motor is attached, you should leave the bolt out of the dogbone when putting the motor in, it makes it way easier to line everything up. The 5/6 speed mounts are the same aside from the stiffness in rubber to make up for the 150lbs in weight difference

 

Awesome thanks for the advice.

 

Hi everyone,

I have a GM6 running an 04 STi ecu, EJ255 from a LGT and the stock 5 speed. I have an opportunity to swap in a 6 speed and was wondering how I would go about connecting the stock GM6 speedo to the transmission. Is the speedo cable compatible with a 6 speed tranny? I'd really like to avoid having to swap clusters since everything works great as it is with the stock cluster. I'm running without ABS so getting the speed signal from there is out of the question.

Thanks!

 

You can unthread the cable from your transmission and thread it into the 6spd.

 

Awesome, thanks!

 

Question: I've had my ez30d swap done for a while and while driving today I was experiencing fuel cut under hard acceleration in every gear before redline. I'm running an 06 sti fuel pump. Car is a 96 impreza

 

Thanks for the responses guys. I purchased a pump for an h6. Will share how it works out

 

My 6spd has what looks like two drain plugs. One up close to the front and the second a little further back at a little pan. Which is the actual drain plug? Is the fluid filling procedure the same as the 5spd? Just fill through the dipstick?

 

Drain from both.

 

I drained from both and refilled with Swepco 201 80w90, good stuff.

 

Started the clutch bleeding process today, but doesnt seem to be working correctly. I watched a bunch of youtube videos and read the procedure a couple of times. So I did the procedure till no more air came out, but the clutch pedal still goes all the way to the floor and stays. Also the clutch fork is pushed all the way to the forward position with the slave cylinder pressurized, yet it doesnt move backwards unless I move it back manually. When I do push it back I can feel pressure in the slave. Am I missing something?

 

sounds like your throwout bearing isn't in the pressure plate. How did you install the throwout bearing? on the clutch then put the engine/trans together and slip the fork over? or throwout bearing on the fork then engine/trans together?

 

If you put the throwout bearing on the fork before putting the engine and trans together (which I always do), once the engine and trans are together you need to push the fork as far towards the firewall as possible to hook the throwout bearing into the pressure plate. It'll make a click when it pops into place and you won't be able to move it without hydraulic pressure after that.

 

The throwout bearing was installed onto the fork before connecting the engine and trans. I did push the fork and I did hear a click. Ill try pushing it farther towards the firewall. It is under pressure but Im still able to move it a little.

 

I went and pushed the fork towards the firewall as hard as I could. There is a little click and it feels like it snaps into place but then when I let go the fork moves back towards the front of the car and I hear another click. I push and it clicks, I release and it clicks. Really hoping I dont have to pull the engine again

 

When you push it towards the firewall, remove the slave cylinder so you can get it as far as you can. then try, if its not grabbing after that you may have popped the retaining ring off of the clutch.

 

So I removed the slave cylinder and pushed the fork back as far as possible. Still popping out. I turned the crankshaft and listened for any odd noises or binding but its smooth. I also pulled the dust boot and tried to look down inside but couldnt really see anything. So what are my options now?

 

Ok so I pulled the engine.....again. The throwout bearing was definitely snapped into the pressure plate cause I had to remove the clutch fork. Once apart I snapped the bearing into the pressure plate and I pulled on it and its in there tight. Its a little wobbly but its snapped in there for sure. Cant get it out unless I pry apart with a screwdriver. So when it was together why couldnt I get the fork far enough towards the firewall to sit against the slave cylinder? I mean the slave was fully extended with the fork as far back as possible and it barely touched. This sucks! Car has been down since Early December.

 

Do you have some pics of everything? Sometimes its the little things we see in the pictures.

Is everything new? clutch and TOB?

What 6 speed?

[edit, I see your earlier posts now, reading them]

 

Jdm 02 6spd. Everything is new. I can get some pics and post when I get back home.

 

Here are some pics.

 

It doesn't look like the tob is being held to the pp securely by the bearing cage/retaining ring. What brand are all the parts you're using? Dumb question but I'm assuming during the install you have the tob installed on the trans w/fork and the retaining ring installed on the pp right?

If you weren't so far away I'd come by and take a look!

 

Yes the tob was installed on the fork and the retaining ring was installed on the pp. Is the tob supposed to sit flat against the pp when its snapped into place? The clutch kit was an ebay brand. I know, I should have went with an Exedy.

 

The only reason the tob doesnt sit flat to the pp is because the flat spring piece that sits on the back (pp side) of the retaining ring.

 

Got it, yea I wish I took more pics when i did mine to help compare. I actually can't remember mine having the spring piece on the retaining ring, hm.

Did you happen to get any pics while the motor & trans were together to see how far back the clutch fork would go?

Still trying to rack my brain why this didn't all fall into place for you.

edit: also if it helps you can pm me your# and we can facetime, I'd probably get a better look at everything that way.