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Unfortunately I don't think anyone from this thread is still actively pursuing the ez30r swap, tho not for a lack of trying.

I'd love to have one swapped into something I own. However, on top of the custom work & wiring, it sounds like the tuning would be formidable as well. You should ask a tuner you trust what ecu he is comfortable with. I'm sure there's a Haltech that will work. Matter of fact, I know there is, because that's what the "Mighty Car Mods" guys are using.

Here's a quote from a tuner, about 100 pages into one of the H6 swap threads on Nasioc:



My takeaway was since there probably won't be any basemaps (for the Hydra standalone in that example, but it should hold true for others as well, unless maybe Haltech spent the time "scoping out" all the sensors on that engine, then developed a basemap?) It will cost $$$ just to get the engine started. Even more getting it tuned.


Regarding your other question about throttle bodies, I couldn't find anything about it. It will probably mean you'll have to make a spacer plate to adapt it.


I don't want to sound all negative about this engine, but there are probably 1000 pages of people asking questions and working on this swap (across the whole internet) with almost no success stories.

What about the ez30r's dumber cousin, the ez30d, with a simplier standalone? Throw a centrifugal supercharger on there with a basic standalone, pay a tuner or learn how to tune, and hopefully have fun?
Thank you for your answer. The good news is that Haltech now has fully support for the engine + a base map and a good resource page: https://support.haltech.com/portal/en/kb/articles/ez30-engine

I recently saw this and was thinking that it might be worth the Haltech premium to have all of this you explain sorted out. I mean, what is 500 extra compared to all the headache and time to figure it out myself. I will probably save that money anyway because of the base map. I think the easiest route to go would be to run dual ECU - keep my GC8 ECU for all things not engine related and just use a cut EZ30 harness wired to the Haltech to manage the engine. This car will be a track car anyway so no need to be road legal. Going that route I won't end up with the harness merge hell. My friend used this dual ECU approach when he did his EJ207 + standalone swap, works great.

The EZ30d would be simpler (and cheaper due to standalone requirements), but my plan is to do a high rev N/A build with built/ported heads so EZ30R is the way to go.
 
Hi all, New Member here, I'm six months into an EZ36 swap into a 2010 na forester, running the 5eat that came with the ez, engine and trans are in, radiator plumbed up, custom tail shaft in. And now I'm finally staring down the barrel of how to merge my 2010 tribeca engine and trans harness with the body harness of the forester. I want to keep all the things I had in the forester, Cruise control, AC, TC and ABS, and also retain the forester cluster over cutting the dash to fit the tribeca one in. I'm also planning on running a stock computer, as I wont be chasing power and have had contact with a few people running stock engine ecu's in their cars. Is there any pitfalls to be aware of going into this final stage? I've already been in contact with AGT Engineering, and will hopefully have advice throughout this part of the build. And a quick sidenote question, How different are the front diff centres from a 4eat and a 5eat regarding physical size with fitment? Thanks all for any advice, Ill dump a few photos up soon from the build.
 
Found something interesting today that I haven't seen discussed anywhere else. This guy on reddit supposedly used a BRZ radiator in his '05 9-2X EG33 swap:


Not much info beyond the pic was given, but if you search through his reddit posts he's got videos of the car driving with the EG so I assume the swap was a success and he managed to make this radiator work. Has anyone else ever heard of this? I'd love to know what hoses and fans he used. As far as I can tell he just tucked the BRZ radiator up underneath the core support and made some brackets to support it. Looks too good to be true tbh

BRZ rads on rockauto right now are around $65, and in the pic it looks like he managed to keep his core support intact meaning no need for hood pins. Could this be a better solution if it works as well in a GC as he made it fit in a GD?
 
Found something interesting today...
So I sent the dude a message and asked a few questions and he was kind enough to respond. He didn't have a ton of info but I was able to confirm a few things: The BRZ rad handled the thermal load no problem, and besides cutting up the bumper beam (to make room for pusher fans I assume) no other major modifications were required.

So now I know that this works on an 05 Saaburu, but wanted to see if this would transfer to a 2001 or older car. I own both a GG and a GF so I went out and did some measuring last night, and as far as I can tell, if it fits in a GD/GG it'll fit in a GC/GF. I got the same number on both cars measuring from the top of the core support to the ground, then subtracting the distance from the ground to the LCA mount. Then I got some dimensions for a BRZ rad off rockauto and, roughly, it seems like it would fit.

I'm going to try this out on my own car and I'll definitely be reporting back on here or in my build thread. Really hoping this will let me keep the stock hood latch and leave the upper core support intact. I'm also going to buy the same Megan Racing rad that he used (they're on ebay for like $150ish). I'm sure it will require some creativity at some point to make it work, but knowing that the brz rad is 1) the right height, 2) the right width, 3) sufficient to cool an EG, and 4) has the inlet and outlet ports in roughly the right locations - is enough to convince me to at least try it
 
Tks. I'm running the factory ez30d radiator in my swap, and it is not enough cooling for that engine. Like climbing the mountain pass on a hot day with the AC on, the temp gauge will slowly creep up till I pull over. The system is properly burped, both by me and by a subaru tech buddy.
 
Oh damn, yeah nothing puts a damper on things like constantly worrying about overheating. Maybe we can both give this a shot and see what we come up with, I don't want to get too optimistic but it could end up being the go-to solution for H6 swaps.

Speaking of A/C, the guy on reddit also mentioned that he used the BRZ condenser too, probably just because it plays nice with the radiator I guess? Idk, but good for him managing to keep his A/C even with an EG33.
 
MY 98 RS was swapped with a 1st gen ez30 by the previous owner and the exhaust is less than ideal and should probably be replaced soon. All the posts I have read talk about custom exhaust and I a most likely going to go that route, however I am curious if headers made for the outback/legacy would fit.

I understand that everything behind the stock headers would then need to be customized to mate to the header.

Not necessarily planning to go this route but would something like the outback/legacy inferno fab or OBX headers fit in the Impreza chassis.
 
If you find a source, I'd be interested too. The 'd' model I have in my Baja hangs lower than a 4-cylinder, but a talented fabricator shouldn't have any issue making up the rest.


Inferno. Fabrications makes or made a header, but it was around a grand and that's more than I'm willing to pay on this car.
 
Is anyone running an oil cooler with this swap. My 98rs has a first gen ez30 and currently has an oil cooler however it will likely never see the track again.

I am currently disassembling the front end to do some restoration work and it would be nice if I could remove it.

I currently have no heat issues and I would like it to stay that way which is why I am cautious.
 
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