Subiesport magazine did a write up on replacing rear bushings on a similar car. You may want to check out subiesport.com. Super pro makes a two piece version of that bushing which may be loads easier to install.

 

I've seen the Super Pro bushing but I think that version is for the newer 02+ Imprezas with the removable diff. mount carraige piece. I'll try and look it up on Subysport. Thanks.

 

Check what type you have. There are two types of diff carriers that I know of. One has the mustash bar that you can swap bushings. The other kind has the bushings pressed into the carrier itself. If you have the second type you cant replace those with the common ones offered. You would have to get custom bushings made and cut the stock ones out with a hacksaw.

 

Check what type you have. There are two types of diff carriers that I know of. One has the mustash bar that you can swap bushings. The other kind has the bushings pressed into the carrier itself.

which types came on what cars/diffs?

 

Ya I've got the bushings that are pressed into the carrier. I found some replacement through Noltec but the whole part of removing the diff. to cut the old ones out and then hammer new ones in doesn't sound too fun in the winter time. So since I won't be doing any big mods until summer I think I'm gonna just use the windoweld that a few people have used and fill in and around the bushings and let them set up over the weekend just to keep it from bouncing around. And then in the summer I'll pull the carrier and get those Noltec bushings in there while I'm swapping lateral arms...

 

I'm in the same boat as you. I think I'm just gonna make metal bushings and possibly weild them. Or cut some poly bushings myself.

 

I just got some powerflex ones. Do you have to drop the diff to replace it or something? Or does it have enough room to slide it in? Can anyone tell me a step by step to replace with the poly ones?

 

I haven't seen any replacable bushings for the older diff carriers? Do the bushings you got have a metal casing around them? But I am pretty sure you need to at least drop the diff so you have some room to either cut or melt the rubber out and then you'll have to either press or cut the original bushing casing in pieces to get it out of the carrier.

I ended up going the windoweld route. I used some super hard durometer rubber blocking and cut it into small pieces and wedged it in around the diff studs and that alone secured it pretty tight but then I sopped that thing in windoweld everywhere I could get it in and around. To finish it off I used a large diameter washer to hold everything in and then tightened the diff stud nuts down over it all. It is a super stable hold and the diff doesn't even budge when its jacked against.

 

ive been looking for those rear diff mounts as well the only ones i found were the superpro ones but on Tein's webpage they say they are like $90
I was wondering if its possable if you can repalce the rear crossmember with a GD one since their seems to be more bushing kits for those.

 

The ones I got have no metal casing.

 

I have a 2000 RS. My rear diff bushings are shot so i ordered some whiteline replacements. They both have the metal race.

Trying to figure out how i'm going to install them right now.

I have the 2 bolts out and the diff resting on a jack. Looks like the metal race may be rusted to the subframe. I may have to drop the subframe just to get enough room to work on it. May need to hacksaw it out or maybe purchase a bushing puller of some sort. That still doesn't solve how i'm going to get the new whiteline ones in..

 

When I did my trailing arm bushing I knocked out the rubber portion then CAREFULLY sawed through the race in several places and used a chisel and hammer to remove it in 3 pieces

I used a large socket to install th new bushing

 

the rear diff is pretty heavy, you just need to get it level and pull it (towards the front of the car) out of the bushings. 2 people makes it waaaay easier.

 

That's why you take the studs out... MUCH easier.

 

I swapped the front and rear diff bushings out in mine. Are you referring to the ones in position "9". The ones that the studs for the diff come through? (ignore arrows!)

If that's the case, make sure you have a full day set aside.

If the car is up in the air, you do not have to remove the diff. However, you will have to lower the diff enough to get the rear subframe out of the car.

- Remove the cover and bolts holding the driveshaft to the diff, move driveshaft out of the way. (leave attached to tranny)

- Next remove the inboard bolts for the F&R lateral links (mark the alignment cams first!).

- Put a jack under the diff

- Take the rear two diff studs out. Jam two nuts together on one stud, then turn the inside nut so it pulls the stud(s) out with it.

- Remove the 6-or-so bolts holding the front of the diff to the outrigger

- Carefully lower the jack to move the diff out of the way, leaving the half shafts in place. Keep some support on the diff (don't let it hang by it's shafts!)

- Remove the E-brake cable mounts from the rear subframe

- Remove the 4 bolts holding the rear subframe to the body

- Snake the subframe out from under the car

At this stage, the easiest method is to burn the old rubber bushings out with a torch. Remember, these were pressed in over 10 years ago. If you try to press them out you will only succeed in bending your rear subframe. Now, with the rubber burned out, very carefully use a hacksaw/airsaw to cut a slit in the metal shell that's left in the subframe. I cut a sliver out of the old shell that was about a pinkies width. The rest of the shell came out easy using a few light taps with a hammer and chisel. You CAN use a press to very carefully pop the new (greased) ones in. Make sure you get the orientation right, the new bushings should have an arrow on them. Or just take a picture of your old bushings before you start. When you're done, tape off the rubber bushings and prime/paint the rear subframe where you probably burned the paint off Reverse to put it all back together paying attention to your alignment marks.

I would also suggest doing the front bushings (red arrow) at the same time since you would only be six bolts away from dropping the outrigger. The blue bushings should also be replaced as they are cheap. The blue ones are the ones that cause the "clunk" when you shift at high rpm. It's caused by the outrigger hitting the body on sloppy bushings. I used a combination of Avo and STi Group N bushings. You can also buy all of these from Turn-in Concepts (TIC).

Hope this helped!

Ryan

 

Do you have the part number for these mounting bushings?

 

hockey puck and a razor blade

thats how i made mine

 

Do you have / can you grab a picture of yours? Did you remove the original bushing first?

I noticed when I was underneath the car doing some work last week that mine are starting to pull away from the metal carrier.

 

I'd use an air saw to cut the rubber out, then use it to cut a small section out of the outer metal shell. You can easily tap it out after that. Spraying some liquid wrench around the metal outside will also make it slide out easier. Getting bushings that don't have a metal outer shell would be easier but if it does have a shell you can make a press to push it in with a long bolt and some large washers and a nut to squeeze it in.