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2001, Impreza 2.5 RS
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Awesome job so far man! Really enjoyed reading through this. Neat idea on the bumper beam modification too.
 

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'01 RS+t STM
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The car's lambda sensor needs to be between the engine and the turbo, the wideband O2 needs to be between the turbo and the catalytic converter. I believe they say 12-18" behind the turbo will extend sensor life.
 

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1998 GF8, 2003 BH9
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154 Posts
Discussion Starter #63 (Edited)
good progress!
Awesome job so far man! Really enjoyed reading through this. Neat idea on the bumper beam modification too.
Cheers guys
Hey have you done any research into where the O2 sensor should be mounted? I think i found that for our cars (only 1 sensor), that is should be about 300mm after the turbo. Not in the up pipe?
I'm not sure about that tbh. Silverton answers it further down so I'll ask for clarification.
Also how well did the down pipe in the outback? I'm still tack-welding mine up, slowly getting there..
I've only done a rough fit so far but didn't see any issues. I can't imagine there will be any as the downpipe will have more clearance to the firewall and everything around it due to the subframe spacers lowering the engine etc.
The car's lambda sensor needs to be between the engine and the turbo, the wideband O2 needs to be between the turbo and the catalytic converter. I believe they say 12-18" behind the turbo will extend sensor life.
So if I'm understanding this correctly the cars O2 sensor should be in the uppipe?? and if I do a wideband or a/f gauge that goes into the dump??




On another note I'm about to order the oil feed for the turbo and just wanted to see if anyone can confirm it's the right one. These are the ones I'm looking at.

MAMBA Turbo Oil Feed line Kit M10x1.25mm TD04 TD05 TD06 / 4AN Line 50cm | eBay
Turbo Oil Feed line Kit M10 x 1.25mm TD04 TD05 TD06 40" | eBay
Turbo Oil Feed line 4AN M10xP1.5 For SUBARU TF035HM TD04 TD05 1.5mm hole / 23" | eBay

Now the top one is the one I like the most, as it's shorter @50cm, where as the second one is 100cm but just wanted to check that 50cm is long enough. The last one would also be ideal as it's 70cm but my understanding is the the turbo banjo bolt is M10 x 1.25 and not M10 x 1.5.

Also all of these have a 1.5mm restrictor in the banjo bolt. Is that to big as I can't find the factory size.

If anyone can confirm any of this that would be great. If not I'll probably order the top one.

Cheers, Luke :)
 

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'01 RS+t STM
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So if I'm understanding this correctly the cars O2 sensor should be in the uppipe?? and if I do a wideband or a/f gauge that goes into the dump??

Cheers, Luke :)
Yes. Cars O2 sensor needs to be after the 4 exhaust runners have merged together but before the turbo. wideband or a/f gauge sensor goes in the down pipe.
 

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haha now the next question, which type of sensor does our outbacks have since they only have 1 sensor in the exhaust?

I believe its the A/F type, partsouq.com shows 2 from some reason.



Heres the parts I bought, will go into the front or rear gallery plugs.
Banjo with a 1mm restrictor, M10x1.5 thread which I may need to drill out to 1.5mm. I thick i had trouble (at the time) getting the bajo style i wanted with a 1.5mm hole.
4AN to M10x1.5 Turbo Oil Feed Banjo Bolt IHI RHF5HB VF23 VF36 1.0mm Restrictor | eBay

Hose - only paid about $55 though?
Aeroflow AF30-4003BLK -4an X 3Ft Black Braided Line With Fittings Included 9337206077262 | eBay
 

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1998 GF8, 2003 BH9
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154 Posts
Discussion Starter #66
So I ended up ordering the oil feed in the last link to we'll see how that goes. I didn't go home this weekend due to plans with the girlfriend and friends. The other reason is this. About 1 1/4 hours away some guy was giving this away from free. And the only thing better than cheap car parts are free one so of course I picked it up.



I needed a new tailgate as the current one had a brief encounter with a towball and didn't win. I'd originally has been after a red so I didn't have to paint the jam but this was free so I'll take it. It's not perfect but definitely fixable.

It has a bend up near the passenger side hinge and a ding near where the badging goes but I should be able to hammer out the bend. Image of bend and ding below.





It originally off a GT-B so it has the factory holes for the wing. I was being indecisive about running the wing so this has "forced" my hand. I'm glad I don't have to drill the holes tbh.



It also has this badge on it. It looks original and OEM but I don't know. I like it but I don't think I'll have it on the boot as the car isn't an STI or have any STI parts and I'm not a fan of pretending to have level of car that you don't have. I probably find a nice place in the interior for it.



I'll be back at my parents next Sunday/Monday so hopefully I can finish off the intercooler piping and mounting. As well as get the bumper to fit. It would also be great to install this. But I'll flatten out the dent before that.

Thanks for reading,
Luke :)
 

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1995 EZ30 Coupe
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464 Posts
^Seconded. My clear tails came with a "Type RA" decal on the trim. My car is absolutely not an RA, but it looks cool.
:projectsti.com:
 

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1998 GF8, 2003 BH9
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154 Posts
Discussion Starter #69
So more progress on the car. It may not seem like much but fitting a front mount is tedious work. I got there though. But more needs to happen.

First I finished the crash bar. I had to cut off more front the back and I cut some speed holes to allow for air flow through the main section of the crash bar.


Another angle to show how little is left.



Then with the FMIC fitted. I ended up cutting of 2 of the 8 threads for mounting the bar so the pipe could sit lower and not scratch through. You can see where the paint has scratched off due to not prepping the surface properly before paint. I'll be redoing that.



And the bumper roughly cut. It would be nice it the intercooler was slightly lower/bigger but that won't happen due to there being basically no intercooler sizes between 180mm and 300mm in the width I need and this car doesn't deserve a custom one.

Overall I'm happy with it. It not to in your face but it's still visible and adds flair to the front. I still need to make lower mounting brackets and I'll make them push the bottom lip of the bumper flush with the intercooler.




I'll be back home tomorrow afternoon so the plan is to finish up that and install the hatch. I have a lead on some early Gen 4 Spec B wheels for cheap so if I can pick them up then brakes and suspension will happen this weekend too.

Luke :)
 

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1998 GF8, 2003 BH9
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Discussion Starter #72
So work on the car has been a bit slow this weekend due to some personal issues so I thought that updating this would help. Since we had Anzac day on the Thursday I took the Friday off and had a four day weekend. I decided to work on something else non engine related for a change would be nice so I did that with varied success.

I started with painting the bottom of the front struts to clean them up a front the flaking yellow paint. There will be a photo below as I didn't many photos this weekend.

Then I did the front brakes. Bit of an upgrade from stock.



Strut and brake installed.



Then I popped the Spec B wheels I got on as they will fit over the brakes. The car might be a bit low.



I wasn't happy with this ride height as although it can look great it's not the look I'm after. So I didn't do any more. Photo of me looking very concerned of the ride height. You can also see a can of coke getting crushed by the ride height. Fun fact also is at this height you can't get the low height from under the sub-frame.



So I posted in a local Liberty group and tomorrow I'll be swapping the lowered Kings Springs for some stock GT wagon springs which should raise it 20-30mm. I'm not making any money off it but that's okay as I think paired with the Koni struts it'll be a nice combo.

Once the Spec B wheels were on I immediately decided that I wasn't happy with them so I've put them up for sale. I'm going to try and find some stock Liberty B4 5 spoke wheels as they'll look nice and fairly stock.

That's all for now. I should have the oil feed arriving in the new fortnight or so and a 90 degree fitting to tap the valve cover so that'll be nice to finally get done.

Luke :)
 

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Were they gen4 struts? I tried the gen4 struts in my outback, bit too low too. The rear hit bump stops way too easily, the front isn't too bad but i wouldnt mind raising it about 15mm.
 

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1998 GF8, 2003 BH9
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Discussion Starter #74
Were they gen4 struts? I tried the gen4 struts in my outback, bit too low too. The rear hit bump stops way too easily, the front isn't too bad but i wouldnt mind raising it about 15mm.
Yeah they are. I'll probably switch the rear bump stops or liberty ones. In regards to the fronts being low, I've heard that the Bilsteins have a different spring top which which makes the Gen 3 front way lower than on the Gen 4's. I only suggest this as mine came out level as you'll see below.

So after last weekends suspension fiasco, I managed to pick up some stock Gen 4 GT springs. So first thing Saturday I installed them. I've gotten scarily quick as all 4 corners were done in around two hours





They now have an even gap all around the wheel which looks much better. They even make the Spec. B wheels look alright. These wheels aren't staying but I don't know what will replace them. Some name brand wheels like Rays, Enkei, Works or Advan would be great, but probably out of budget. I'm keeping an eye out on deals though. I think 18's are the right size for this car.

I didn't paint the rear brakes or underlay due to wanting to see what it looked like. I'll do it when I get new wheels/while I do the swaybar.

Next was to move on to the tailgate. I wanted to get it just to get parts installed so they're not sitting around. When I pulled of the center light from the OG tailgate this is what I found.



15 years of dust build up. It was a couple of mm's thick too. The light is actually cracked but I figured I better install it until I get a new one.

Next was to remove the wiring. Much to my annoyance, Subaru decided not to install a plug near the door hinge anywhere. This meant pulling all the wiring through the top. That was fun.

I need to figure out how the wire up the 4th brake light as the previous owner just twist and taped it, a personal favourite of mine (yeah no).



Before the install I managed to flatten out most of the damage on the top. It'll need some grinding and filler but it's good for now.



All installed with the GT-B wing too. Sorry for the crap pic, the light was not allowing me to get any decent pics of the rear of the car.



Next I started to do a general clean out of the car, and I pulled out the new carpet I bought to let it air. I realised I never took pics so here it is.
The white is a bit foam that has come off the bottom.



It's actually in really good condition, just needs wash to get the dirt out of it. The current one has stains left, right and center. There's a tiny bit of damage near the left foot rest, but I think I should be able to patch.



Next I installed the fog lights to get them out of the car. It adds so much to the front end and looks mint with the fmic.



I also managed to score a bit of storage space behind the garden shed so i can store stuff before selling/scrapping. The wheels I won't selling as they have basically new tyres. So the plan is to paint them black and put them on my brothers Forester as he wants black rims and he's not painting by WRX six spokes. They would only sell for like $100 anyway so might as well use the tread first.



So this is now the current look of the car. It's getting there now. It may be the ugly child when it comes to Subaru's but to me this is the most iconic Subaru ever made, and being the car I grew up in I have a soft spot for them.



Also now my new favourite photo of the overall car. You can see the fantastic condition of the paint. This is from a dodgy respray on the passenger side because of a sideswipe. Must have been light as they just replaced the doors and fender, nothing else.



That should be all for the exterior for a while. I only have been working on it as I'm waiting for an oil feed line to show up. Then I can do the oil and coolant lines finished and get the engine running properly. I'm still split between using project Lambda or just a FPR for the fuel management. I know that Lambda is much better but I don't know how to use it at all. Whereas a FPR is a fair bit cheaper and easier to use. What do people think?

That's all for now. In summary the project is going nicely and I'm hoping to be driving it by Christmas, so let's see how far I miss that deadline by.

Cheers, Luke :)
 

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1995 EZ30 Coupe
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Great progress dude! The front end does indeed look mint with everything in there.

I'm kinda torn on engine management as well, might combine project lambda with an FIC6. Although apparently an ecu can only take so many reflashes? Something to think about if considering lambda, you may want to find a backup ecu.
https://www.rs25.com/forums/f105/227292-diy-projectlambda-stock-ecu-reflash-tuning-master-reference-thread-22.html
Post 212

Either way, get something that can control fuel AND timing, at least. And you'll need a voltage clamp or something for the MAP cause it'll freak out the ecu when you hit positive manifold pressure.

...AEM FIC 6 controls fuel and timing, and has a voltage clamp. You'll need a couple 2.2-3kohm resistors tho...
 

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Have a good look into a speeduino too. I think they are advancing pretty damn well and theres a guy on facebook who can build a plug n play version. Isaac is his name i think?
Prices looks pretty good too (around $300AUD ish i think)

Cant wait to see this thing go, i'm still trying to finish welding my up and down pipes!

 

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1998 GF8, 2003 BH9
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154 Posts
Discussion Starter #77
Great progress dude! The front end does indeed look mint with everything in there.

I'm kinda torn on engine management as well, might combine project lambda with an FIC6. Although apparently an ecu can only take so many reflashes? Something to think about if considering lambda, you may want to find a backup ecu.
https://www.rs25.com/forums/f105/227292-diy-projectlambda-stock-ecu-reflash-tuning-master-reference-thread-22.html
Post 212

Either way, get something that can control fuel AND timing, at least. And you'll need a voltage clamp or something for the MAP cause it'll freak out the ecu when you hit positive manifold pressure.

...AEM FIC 6 controls fuel and timing, and has a voltage clamp. You'll need a couple 2.2-3kohm resistors tho...
Have a good look into a speeduino too. I think they are advancing pretty damn well and theres a guy on facebook who can build a plug n play version. Isaac is his name i think?
Prices looks pretty good too (around $300AUD ish i think)

Cant wait to see this thing go, i'm still trying to finish welding my up and down pipes!
Damn you guy's know so much more than I do. The more I weigh up the options the more I think Lambda is the way to go. Is it able to deal with the positive manifold pressure or will I still need a voltage clamp??

I did have a quick look at Speeduino but it all goes over my head sadly and at least with Lambda the ECU is "stock" which makes it easier to engineer in Australia.

I've slowly been plodding along with the project and getting small things done hear and there. They always take way more time than predicted. I got the oil feed done which was way easier than expected.



I then cut the bracket to hold the up-pipe so it now isn't in the way of the turbo.



I then swapped over the wastegate on the turbo so it now has a 5-6 psi from a later SG9 one instead of the earlier 7-8 psi of a GD. I attached the oil drain hose, the silicone outlet and inlet, I flipped the top coolant feed so it now faces towards the transmission. It's now bolted in for hopefully the last time in a while.



I then made a support bracket for the intercooler pipe out of an off-cut of said pipe.



It's only being used to hold the pipe centre to the hole. It's mounted off a Riv-Nut that went through an existing hole. The piping has also been cut to fit a bit better. The paint scratches are from a rogue t-bolt clamp but I'm not to worried as it'll be covered by the airbox.



In addition to modifying the piping I also pulled it apart to make sure they had no residue left on the inside. I've only done the pipe you can see in the photo below. You can see on the side of the valve cover the oil hose soon to be tapped into the cover. I'll also need to sort out a air filter at some point too. That's going to be fun as in Australia the filter has to be in an airbox of some kind. Don't know exactly where it's going to fit.



And a final overview of the engine. You can see that I've started doing the plumbing for the turbo coolant. I ordered the 16-12-16 T fittings and they will hopefully be here in the next fortnight so that can get finalized.



All in there's not much left to do on the engine itself. Just tap the valve cover for the oil drain and T off the heater hoses for coolant. There's still plently more for after that but when the above are done I can actually run the engine again for more than a minute and start looking at tuning more seriously.

If anyone has any photos of where to tap the valve cover I'd really appreciate it because I'm getting to the point where I can't avoid doing it any more, but I can only find photos of a ej25D valve cover.

I also went through and made a list of the rest of the parts that need to be obtained. It's slowly getting shorter. The main items are a bonnet, midpipe, axleback and a mirror. There's a few interior pieces too but it's getting close. But I've probably missed something major in there.

Anyhow that's it for now
Cheers, Luke :)
 

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2001 SRP 2.5RS/RA/SOHC Monster
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Have you considered running the oil drain to the pan instead of the valve cover? I've never liked the idea of running hot oil directly into the head.
 

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1995 EZ30 Coupe
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^I did that on an EJ25D recently, and the only semi direct route requires the drain line to basically touch the exhaust manifold/flange. I used some metallic heat wrap
on the hose, but it still melted. Might've been the hose I used tho.

Any rate, I'm thinking of going into the valve cover in my RS, but I may end up just tapping straight into the oil passage of the head. I'll post pictures if I get to it before you do, but I doubt that'll happen.

Great progress, you're so close!
 

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If you want to run Project Lambda you can install a different map sensor, change the settings and you wont need a voltage clamp or anything like that.

I used a Bosch 0281002437 - 3 bar sensor. Plugs straight in BUT the mounting is a little different (1 bolt vs 2). Changed the Slope to 65.1kPa offset to -6.3kPa. Runs like a dream! I know you might be a little way off that but just in case you need the info in future..

Good website for sensor specs:
MKS Autobusiness, special components for special needs - Products


As far as the turbo drain goes, so many people have done the rocker cover route and had no issues. I'm going that way, theres a giant drain passage on the lower-rear corner of the head which runs straight to the crankcase. No oil will squirt/splash up onto the rocker gear as the flow rate is so low. At worst the rocker cover gaskets might fail early due to the temp.

I'll take a pic of mine and post up asap for you.
 
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