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So has anybody actually done this. It seems like a really good mod; less mass in the drive train should equate to lower power loss from the drive train, wouldn't this give you a nice boost to AWHP?

Does anybody have any dyno comparisons with the CF shaft? Or, does anyone have anecdotal experience they can speak from, I'd love to hear how it affects 1/4 miles / 0-60 times.
 
Discussion starter · #24 ·
i'm really tempted to buy this too... I wonder what HP its rated to support...It'd suck to put this in, turbo your car and have it come apart because theres too much HP...1000 bucks down the crapper haha.
 
rotating mass has to do with drivetrain. the more rotating mass then the larger loss of hp through the drivetrain. unsprung weight has to do with your suspension.

I'm gonna be looking into getting the braille cf driveshaft prob in spring. If i end up doin it ill make sure to get dynos before/after as well as 1/4.
 
whats the difference?
It was already stated above, but I'll elaborate.

Rotational mass is mass that your engine has to start spinning when you accelerate. This means the extra mass means extra inertia in the drivetrain, which equates to more drivetrain loss and slower acceleration. Unsprung weight is anything that follows the road directly, meaning isn't riding on your suspension. The more of this, the harder your suspension has to work, which leads to a rougher ride and worse handling over bumps.

Unsprung weight: Wheels/Tires, control arms, lower shock parts, knuckls and a few other things

Rotational mass: Wheels/Tires, axles, driveshaft, flywheel, pullies, and lots of other little things in between and in the engine.
 
i def think im gonna buy the aluminum driveshaft shop driveshaft. good find!

what i find odd, is i called them a while ago about cv shafts for my car and they said they arnt available... hmmm
 
http://www.ultrarev.com/product.php?productid=45550


Couldnt get there site directly but its only $404. Yes it is alloy and carbon would be better if it breaks because it would just shatter. However alloy is much cheaper.

I'm pretty sure they can hold up to the hp our cars are capable of. When's the last time you heard of an impreza snapping the center driveshaft... its pretty rare. I'd go with the aluminum one frankly.
 
the alum one says rated for 750hp... more than ill ever have. If I can get people to buy my old stuff ill be able to buy this and let you all know how i feel about it. otherwise it wont be till spring. :(
 
You also cant go by just weight. Do you have the diameter of both DS? If the alloy is bigger any weight loss is detracked by the fact that it is farther out from the center. Which I would think it is because I didnt see any of the CF shafts needing to have anything pounded on for clearance or clearance being tight.


Bang for buck goes to alloy for sure. Didnt know they where so cheap. Might get one if they come down alittle more.
 
Discussion starter · #35 ·
...ill make sure to get dynos before/after as well as 1/4.
I don't think it would affect dyno results as the drivetrain components will already be moving, and this would make any improvement negligible. You should notice an improvement in your 60ft times, though, since you start from a dig and can really tell if the product helped the car rev up easier than before.
 
this will free up rotating weight and being the tube will torsionally twist more (steel twists about 5 degrees and the aluminum twists about 20 degrees)
Can someone explain what they are saying, because it doesn't make sense when they phrase it this way. I am interpreting it to mean that the side away from the engine on the steel driveshaft will be 5 degrees "behind" the side closer to the engine, due to torque, while the aluminum one will have a 20 degree difference between the two sides. How is this better? Doesn't that mean that the aluminum driveshaft is torsionally weaker than the steel one?
 
I don't think it would affect dyno results as the drivetrain components will already be moving, and this would make any improvement negligible. You should notice an improvement in your 60ft times, though, since you start from a dig and can really tell if the product helped the car rev up easier than before.
Wouldn't the lighter weight of the drive shaft compared to stock free up some WHP. It certainly doesn't help the engine produce more power but it allows more power to flow to the wheels because of lower parasitic losses. Afterall, the dyno does measure in power to the wheels.
 
Can someone explain what they are saying, because it doesn't make sense when they phrase it this way. I am interpreting it to mean that the side away from the engine on the steel driveshaft will be 5 degrees "behind" the side closer to the engine, due to torque, while the aluminum one will have a 20 degree difference between the two sides. How is this better? Doesn't that mean that the aluminum driveshaft is torsionally weaker than the steel one?
This doesnt mean the shaft is WEAKER...it simply means it is more flexible. Imagine it like a spring. There are springs rated to hold huge loads with both high and low deformation factors. So you can have a springy srping or a stiff spring that both hold the same amount. Hope that makes sense...

Now, imagine if at rest there were two vertical lines painted on the face of each shaft end. What they are stating is that under rated load, there will be a 20 degree difference between these lines as compared to the 5 degree on an alloy shaft. Again, this doesnt mean the shaft is weaker, its just more flexible.
 
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