Couple of questions: why is your EJ20 useless? Why can't you turbo your current engine?

If you do wanna go N/A, I'd suggest bumping the compression ratio by using some cometic gaskets. I think your choice of parts might work though. It should be streetable...depending on how aggresive your cams are.

 

cuz my EJ20 is only making 120hp stock, and if I increase the compression ratio by using some gaskets and cams I won't be able to pass the 200hp limit ?
In japan the have an EJ20 that makes 190hp ((stock)) N/A. I was looken for this engine but cann't find one ???


so the best choice for me is to go to the EJ25.
-cheap
-more hp capacity
-more tourqe
-even more easier to find parts and cams

so what do you think about the STi+RS engine combinations to stand high rpm with race cams??

 

Why not go forced induction? The cost will be lower and the potential much greater...

 

Not to mention if you used STi pistons you would loose compression compared to the pistons found in the EJ251. You could get away with using the rods but you may or may not need custom pistons made because STi rods have a taper on the small end necessary for the wider wrist pin bosses on the stock piston. For the small amount of power you are going to gain the stock rods and pistons from the EJ251 will do and you would retain the 10:1 compression. If you pay good money to have the engine blue printed and balanced the engine will take higher revs easier with proper management. If you were to buy some higher compression pistons (other than stock) and install them into the EJ251 with built heads (aggresive cams) now you could run into problems with clearence between the piston and valves. Thats another thing to consider is engine management. What do you plan to do about that?

 

I'd suggest bumping the compression ratio by using some cometic gaskets.

Don't meant to hijack but what kind of gains (if any) would you see from these? Also where would I find them?


-Sean

 

Ok the EJ25 rs motor isnt a very high reving motor as well as its not going to break 200+ HP unless you put way more money into that motor than if you just turbo it with 5 PSi... Just a thought... plus the STI bottom end will actually drop your compression to 8.5:1.

franz16v - cosmetic gaskets are just gaskets that add or take off compression so basically if you kept your engine stock it wont do that much to engine performance... It helps if you're trying to get the most out of your engine but in stock form you wont see much gains if any...

 

okay if the sti bottom end is not possible, then what is the maximum rpm that the stock ej25 rs bottom end would take ?? considering that the heads are moded to take up to 8000 rpm safely
would it be safe if the rev limiter is set @ 7000~7200 rpm ?

 

seriously, if you want to make 200+ hp out of an n/a ej251 you will need a heck of a lot more money than a basic turbo kit. raising the redline takes a modified ECU and valvetrain upgrades, and you'll probably need head work to cope with your flow requirements. you can go with a header, exhaust, cat, pulley, intake, cams and maybe a perfectpower on your stock EJ25 and make maybe 190 hp without losing bottom-end, but a serious engine build will set you back a lot more cash and possibly hurt driveability.

bottom line, if you're heart is set on making 200+ horses for cheap you need a turbo kit.

 

EJ20 just wondering but why would you need your engine to redline that high??? Its all about where the power band ends that make the difference in how high the redline should be. If I were you dont look at the redline and just figure out where the best power is going to come from... Head work and lightened crank everything would need to be changed... But if you change everything then highest redline I would suggest is 7500 just to keep the engine at optimum temp and not overheating... Also I would checkout spoon's comment too... If 200+ is your benchmark then turbo is the way to go 5psi and you are already higher than 200 HP just FYI man...

 

EJ20 just wondering but why would you need your engine to redline that high???QUOTE]
cuz my car gear ratio is very very low.... my car rpm come to 6000 rpm once I hit 135 mph and thats only 200 rpm before the redline


okay then most of you say that I need alot of $$ to make it done without turbo.
then If I go to a jdm v5/v6 sti would that be cheaper ?? and also I'm not good in engine swaps?


so what should I do?

 

do you want 200 whp or chp because 200 at the crank is not too hard but 200 at the wheel and you are going to pay though the teeth

if you want 200 at the crank do this
keep your heads and put them on the ej25 block and you should bump CR by half to a full point and have them camed and ported when you take them off
and yes there is alot off power to be made at 7500rpm but you have to find a jdm ecu for a NA 2.0 or run stand alone because i dont think there is anyway to raise redline without a reflash and there isnt a reflash for that ecu either way it is expensive and very difficult if you try to use another factory ecu

for 200 at the wheels is not cheap but if you go for a turbo motor of anykind you could make much more power for not a whole lot more

if you get a turbo motor and dont think you can do the wiring of the factory ecu do this
buy a motor with a cut harness because they are alot cheaper than one with a full harness and ecu then buy a stand alone and wire it up because a stand alone can be mounted it the engine bay (well some can) so you dont have to run wires through the fire wall and there are less wires to deal with

 

do you want 200 whp or chp because 200 at the crank is not too hard but 200 at the wheel and you are going to pay though the teeth

if you want 200 at the crank do this
keep your heads and put them on the ej25 block and you should bump CR by half to a full point and have them camed and ported when you take them off
and yes there is alot off power to be made at 7500rpm but you have to find a jdm ecu for a NA 2.0 or run stand alone because i dont think there is anyway to raise redline without a reflash and there isnt a reflash for that ecu either way it is expensive and very difficult if you try to use another factory ecu

yap I only want 200 @ the crank, so if I get a jdm ecu for a N/A 2.0 will do a good job up to 7500 rpm. but is it okay for the bottom end to keep up with the rpm limit??

 

well with all cobb tuning N/A parts for the 2.5 u can achieve 250 crank Horses thats alot of money ofcourse

 

yap I only want 200 @ the crank, so if I get a jdm ecu for a N/A 2.0 will do a good job up to 7500 rpm. but is it okay for the bottom end to keep up with the rpm limit??

OHHH!!! 200 at the crank is different. Yes, you could do that fairly easily. I think the bottom end would be able to handle it. I would look into TWE's shim under bucket kit if you're not sure.

 

ya sounds like you want to put a 2.5 block in and keep your 2.0 heads just put cams in and have full exhaust and intake with a perfect power piggy back and your 200 or alittle more

 

:crazy: :run:

 

uhhhh... if you want 200+ at the crank look at something like the cobb stage 3. They claim to "shatter" the 200 hp mark with this... just and idea. (assuming you get an ej25(which you should))...

-Sean

 

Thanx every one now I got clear idea
then I will start the 200HProject by the end of this summer :clap:

 

uhhhh... if you want 200+ at the crank look at something like the cobb stage 3. They claim to "shatter" the 200 hp mark with this... just and idea. (assuming you get an ej25(which you should))...

-Sean

COBB is actually boasting 200+ hp at the brakes

 

At the brakes? Is that like 200WHP? What does that mean. Man If I could get 200WHP i'd be set for sure.

cheers

garrett

 

Dont waste your money on cobb cams. Competition cams will regrind your cams for like $120.00 and you can put some of that money towards springs and valvetrain upgrades. Deck the heads to raise compression and get your intake manifold and head ports "extrude honed" to raise your power range. Any good machine shop can balance your engine and lighten your rods and pistons to rev a little higher. I am looking into having this stuff done myself. Just my .02

 

decking the heads is the worst way to bump CR because what you make in CR you loss many times more with cam timing the best way to increase CR is pistons with dome or less CC heads

some what do you plan to do exactly?

 

How is that any different than thinner gaskets? I wouldnt deck them much, just enough to basically resurface them and the block for a nice fresh surface and maybe gain a little compression.

I really dont know how much to remove from either the heads or the block. Prolly not enough to get excited about.

Explain to me the cam timing issue I really have never been aware of that.

How much do these parts cost? they are crazy expensive and we are only talking about breaking 200 flywheel HP

 

yes gaskets effect cam timing too

just cleaning them up isnt a problem its when you take .050" or more off that it becomes a real problem but can be fixed with either cam gears or if you know about how much the timing changed having a machine shop rekey your stock cam gear
these are expensive because cam gears cost $200 a piece and $75 to have one rekeyed

that why i said to increase CR put 2.2 heads on because the CR is 11.x with this done and add a cam with some porting and you have a very easy 200hp without any EM

 

SO what's the modifier on your EJ20x N/A motor? Is it 1, 3, 5, 7, E, T, ect.

It's rumored that some of the EJ20 DOHC heads have gigantic ports. (Seen pictures of comparisons between different EJ20 heads, it's true!) And I venture to say that if you have the right "gigantic port" EJ20 head you would actually be better off using that on an EJ251 block. The difference (from what I know) between EJ20 DOHC and EJ25 SOHC or DOHC heads is only 1cc per chamber. (ie: EJ20 at 49cc and EJ25 at 50cc)

so what with those heads, the EJ25 bottom end, aggressive cams, upgraded springs and retainers, EJ22T oil pump, high compression pistons (12:1 seems streetable with GOOD engine management) (and as for the pistons, not necessarily a wristpin offset difference, but a dome/cc difference) good headgaskets, better injectors, better fuel pump, and engine management.

All I have to say is... that if they can get a 2.2L hybrid F22 Honda motor to do 340+ whp at 18:1 CR, I think 200whp from a 2.5 is possible with less $$$

Also, they can get 13:1 drag motors to run on pump gas with no EM and carbs and stuff, it's timing advancement that generates deadly knock/ping.