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Calgary
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Thank you Dyne and all other contributors. I have read this and the other 200 page thread on swapping the ez30D. Like everyone else I am working through the error messages from the OBD2.

I had noticed some drive-ability problems .The car was easy to start but low power . I can almost say that the car felt slower that when I had the 1.8 in it . I thought the car was being put in limp mode. It wasn't . It was the fuel pump . The 1.8 fuel pump flows 4.6 and the 2003 legacy the engine was pulled from flowed at 14.2 . Almost triple the amount. Plus I gather the 19 year old pump was about to bite the dust.

Add the fuel pump to the list of parts .
 

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2001 2.5RS Coupe
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21 Posts
Hey guys, I've used this thread as guidance for my own EZ30D swap, which has been coming along nicely. However, I've run into several CELs that I can't figure out. Just as background info, the motor is from Japan, but everything else (ECU, TCM, etc) is from a donor 2002 Outback. I've got it running, but it doesn't idle well (surges when it gets up to temperature) and it seems down on power. Some or all of these issues may relate to the CELs, but I'm not sure. Before I go into the specific CELs, you can see pics of my swap.



P1507 - Idle Air Control Valve (Fail Safe): This is the infamous P1507 CEL, in which I followed the circuit diagram (see pic). Does this look right to you? This is currently wired in, but I still get this code.



P1698 - Engine Torque Control Cut Signal Voltage Low
P1596 - Automatic Transmission Diagnosis Input Signal Circuit High Input


I read that Ibartik had these same codes. How did he figure these out? Keep in mind that I'm running with the TCM connected, but most of the wires are not connected to anything. Are there any wires in particular that should be grounded?

P0031 - HO2S Bank 1 Sen 1 Heater Circuit Low
P0051 - HO2S Bank 2 Sen 1 Heater Circuit Low


I'm using the OEM headers but without the 3rd 'Y' cat (and an O2 simulator instead of the 3rd O2 sensor). These codes relate to the upstream O2 sensors, one on each header, which I didn't mess with. I doubt both sensors would be bad, but I guess it's possible. Any other thoughts?



Any help is very much appreciated. Thanks!

Dave
 

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P1507 - Idle Air Control Valve (Fail Safe): This is the infamous P1507 CEL, in which I followed the circuit diagram (see pic). Does this look right to you? This is currently wired in, but I still get this code.


P1698 - Engine Torque Control Cut Signal Voltage Low
P1596 - Automatic Transmission Diagnosis Input Signal Circuit High Input


I read that Ibartik had these same codes. How did he figure these out? Keep in mind that I'm running with the TCM connected, but most of the wires are not connected to anything. Are there any wires in particular that should be grounded?

P0031 - HO2S Bank 1 Sen 1 Heater Circuit Low
P0051 - HO2S Bank 2 Sen 1 Heater Circuit Low


I'm using the OEM headers but without the 3rd 'Y' cat (and an O2 simulator instead of the 3rd O2 sensor). These codes relate to the upstream O2 sensors, one on each header, which I didn't mess with. I doubt both sensors would be bad, but I guess it's possible. Any other thoughts?



Any help is very much appreciated. Thanks!

Dave
Bumping an old thread. It's been helpful or at least inspiring that this swap has been done by others. Good advice to avoid the VDC cars and later CANbus cars. We're taking a 2002 donor car and gradually cutting wires and disconnecting things until trouble codes come up and then trying to correct them.

Dave, have you downloaded the FSM from:
Index of /Auto/Japan/Subaru/Legacy Outback/2002

The only trouble I've found with that is that it only shows the TCM for the VDC cars, which has three plugs (white, gray, green) as opposed to the non VDC cars which have two plugs (white and gray). The 2001 H6 supplement on that site appears to have the right pinouts and colors for the two connector / non VDC ECU. But some of the other wire colors in the 2001 do not match the 2002 we have.

Our friend that did this swap into his dune buggy also gets the 1698 code. That appears to be a broken wire from the ECU to the TCM or that wire is grounded. Same for the 1596. Just do a search in the FSM for 1698 and 1596 and you'll see the diagnostic procedure. I have only seen the 1698 on ours when we unplugged the TCM from the harness.

The FSM says the 1507 is probably an intake leak, throttle cable that doesn't have a little bit of play at idle, foreign particles in the air bypass line, or the IACV itself. A different H6 car I bought recently had an intermittent stalling problem. Turned out to be the IACV was all gummed up, you can pretty easily take it off and clean the little passages. Have a gasket on hand before you start, you will probably have to replace it.

Our donor car also has the 0051. Heater circuit on that O2 sensor seems to be open (no continuity). Putting a resistor in the harness plug to fake it out didn't work though.


Still working on TCM wiring on ours to keep it happy with the trans unplugged. So far the main issue seems to be the cruise not working. Light comes on when you push the button, speedo works on the instrument cluster and OBDII reader, but cruise doesn't engage.

Our other issue is that the fuel level code keeps coming up. It seems from trial and error, and according to the FSM, that the instrument cluster has to be plugged in and functional or this code will come up. What has everyone else done about this?


Thanks again to dyne and everyone else for this thread. If our swap ends well I'll post an explanation of wiring we've done.
 

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Car has been running well. The only code that comes up is the evap pressure.

I made this thread on USMB going over the wiring and plumbing we did. Hopefully it helps someone down the road. I need to update it:
2002 EZ30 H6 into 1999 Outback swap - Subaru Transplants - Ultimate Subaru Message Board

Has anyone gotten their H6 ECU to control the AC in an older car? I've tried with no success. I'm about to just rig up a toggle switch to ground the compressor and fan relays. Not an ideal solution but it should work.
 

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1997 Legacy 2.5GT sedan
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305 Posts

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1996 STi ej20g
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Hey guys,
I know Dyne isn't around to much anymore but has anyone successfully gotten an arduino to modify to the tach signal for a 4 cyl cluster?
 

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2001 Subaru Impreza RS
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1 Posts
I am having a horrible time finding the ECU pinpoint diagram for the EZ30 that we are putting in my 01 RS, any chance that you can direct me in the correct area of the interwebs to find this mythical beast? I am having an awful time and hubs is about to give up. ANY HELP would be amazing at this point!
 

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Ok, guys, I am in the process of swapping out my 2.5 for a 3.0 H6. I have a 2001 Subaru Impreza RS if that means anything at all for this. The 3.0 is out of a 04 Legacy. I have all of the wiring and computers from both vehicles. My problem currently is that I cannot find the ECU Pinpoint wiring diagram anywhere! Any of you veterans wanna help a girl out? My husband and I are going CRAZY trying to find this mythical beast.

:confused::confused::confused::confused:
Here you go:

http://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/Legacy_Outback/2004/2004%20USDM/5.%20Engine%20Section%20(H6%20DOHC)/11.%20ENGINE%20DIAGNOSTICS%20ENH6DO.pdf

The ECU pin out is on page EN(H6DO)-26.

You will also need info from here:

http://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/Legacy_Outback/2004/2004%20USDM/9.%20Wiring%20Section/1.%20WIRING%20SYSTEM%20WI.pdf

Best of luck with your build.

Ryan
 

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2001 3.0L H6
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6 Posts
No you shouldn't have to; I only have the TCM "1" and "N" pins wired as on my circuit diagram:

[/URL]

I just left the remainder of the shifter connector pins unconnected and I don't have any problem.

Recheck your wiring for the above circuit. You wouldn't be getting that P1590 or P1591 code if it's working properly
Hey all, I've swapped a wrx tranny into an ez30d for a fun little wagon, and with everything already hooked up it's definitely easier to tackle the electrical bits than some other projects on here that have swapped the engine into another car. Well, at least I thought it would be easy, but I haven't even been able to get the VSS to work (which may be bad on the trans, as I've also learned it has a bad reverse, so I'm fixing that and checking the vss soon) But I doubt I even wired it right to begin with. I'm pretty new to working on cars and electrics to begin with so it's kind of a struggle to understand what some of y'all are talking about. I understand the transistor circuit posted in the thread, however I do not know how exactly to wire it to my clutch pedal, or if you use the Auto or Manual neutral position switch. OR if you're supposed to wire the neutral position switch from the manual into the connector that originally determined those inputs from the original auto NPS. DO you then take those wires and wire them in to that transistor diagram? I am really lost and need help and most of those pictures that have been posted have been blocked by some third party picture renting website thing. So I can't see what's going on but pictures would be incredibly appreciated if they could get through. The car works as I used the NPS from the auto, plugged it in and set the lever to neutral and it works but not very well for the long run. Also the connector that originally had the auto vss connected to it also is what had the solenoids connected to it. So I know that's what I need to add resistors to, but I don't know exactly where. I atleast know they should be 1.5k ohm resistors though lol. If anyone could reach out and help me on this project it would just be so fantastic. I tried emailing Dyne, he responded a couple days ago and may even be working on getting pics and info for me now but it's been a while and I tried contacting him again with no response so hopefully I can get some feedback from this suuuuuper old thread, it would be highly appreciated.

Thanks! - Jacob
 

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1995 EZ30 Coupe
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494 Posts
First off, HUGE thanks to Dyne and the other contributors. I used this thread for my 01 LGT and my 99 LGT swaps back in the day.

JaketheCake:
The 1.5k resistors for the solenoids need to be 10watt I believe. Big ol things, they'll get quite warm when in use.
You can also connect them directly to the auto trans controller and get rid of a bunch of extra wire.
330 ohm resistor for the ATF temp sensor so the rad fans will turn off.
I think the VSS just needs +5/gnd and then the signal should be fine to go straight to the cluster, that's what I did.
The NPS is inside your trans. There should be 4 wires coming from the side(opposite the vss) of the trans terminating into 2 small connectors. one is the reverse lights and the other is nps

OH! Is your car VDC or non VDC?

I'm working rifht now but I'll post more as I remember later. Good luck.
 
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