Subaru Impreza GC8 & RS Forum & Community banner

161 - 180 of 194 Posts

·
Registered
2001 3.0L H6
Joined
·
6 Posts
First off, HUGE thanks to Dyne and the other contributors. I used this thread for my 01 LGT and my 99 LGT swaps back in the day.

JaketheCake:
The 1.5k resistors for the solenoids need to be 10watt I believe. Big ol things, they'll get quite warm when in use.
You can also connect them directly to the auto trans controller and get rid of a bunch of extra wire.
330 ohm resistor for the ATF temp sensor so the rad fans will turn off.
I think the VSS just needs +5/gnd and then the signal should be fine to go straight to the cluster, that's what I did.
The NPS is inside your trans. There should be 4 wires coming from the side(opposite the vss) of the trans terminating into 2 small connectors. one is the reverse lights and the other is nps

OH! Is your car VDC or non VDC?

I'm working rifht now but I'll post more as I remember later. Good luck.
Thank you for the input! mine is non VDC because I heard of the troubles of dealing with the extra tech of the VDC. and by +5/gnd do you mean the power wire needs to have more than +5 volts and then make sure the ground wire is grounded? Then you wired it straight to the cluster instead of the ecu? and thank you thank you thank you for giving me clear instruction about the NPS and resistors! You are awesome dude.
 

·
Registered
2001 3.0L H6
Joined
·
6 Posts
oh but one more thing is the auto trans controller the TCU? or you mean that big plug that you originally connected the speed sensor/solenoid cable to?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
If you search google for photobucket fix it should bring up a couple of different way to sort the pictures out

Here I did it for you, go here--->
Photobucket Hotlink Fix - Chrome Web Store

I found this other way to do it as well today posted on SLi Net (curtesy of admiral snackbar who picked it up from Nasioc) but haven't tried it yet--->

I found this on NASIOC of all places and its been super helpful:
to fix your photobucket photos, you just add ~original after .jpg. It starts out looking like this when the photos are broken: Tdagen/image_zps8e8f28ea.jpg[/IMG]

It ends up like this: Tdagen/image_zps8e8f28ea.jpg~original[/IMG]

And some of mine had some weird numbers in between the .jpg and [/IMG] like this:
/subysmashedup378.jpg?t=1257112242[/IMG]
In regards to your wiring issue. The VSS needs to go to the ECU and the Speedometer. Are you using the blue clutch switch you swapped in with your manual pedal set for the transistor circuit? When I did my swap I used two of those so I could retain my factory cruise control. Once you get the pictures working it should make a little more sense. Do you already have the schematic for the transistor circuit?

I swapped an EZ30 into my BK Legacy, so I may be a little different then your particular swap.

Ryan
 

·
Registered
2001 3.0L H6
Joined
·
6 Posts
If you search google for photobucket fix it should bring up a couple of different way to sort the pictures out

Here I did it for you, go here--->
Photobucket Hotlink Fix - Chrome Web Store

I found this other way to do it as well today posted on SLi Net (curtesy of admiral snackbar who picked it up from Nasioc) but haven't tried it yet--->



In regards to your wiring issue. The VSS needs to go to the ECU and the Speedometer. Are you using the blue clutch switch you swapped in with your manual pedal set for the transistor circuit? When I did my swap I used two of those so I could retain my factory cruise control. Once you get the pictures working it should make a little more sense. Do you already have the schematic for the transistor circuit?

I swapped an EZ30 into my BK Legacy, so I may be a little different then your particular swap.

Ryan
Thank you! So you take the signal wire from the vss and wire it to the ecu, but from that same wire you take it to the tachometer? Not somewhere else on the ECU that has to be lead to the tachometer? I was planning on using the blue clutch switch, I would like to know how you made that work if you can. Finally, I have the PDF of the transistor circuit that I gathered somewhere from the forum, I'll check on the other pictures to see if it was the legit picture, I'm fairly certain it is because it makes sense after studying it for enough time. I'm glad I can get some feedback on this though this is awesome.
 

·
Registered
1995 EZ30 Coupe
Joined
·
494 Posts
Yes, when I wrote auto trans controller I did mean the TCU.
The VSS shouldn't need MORE than 5 volts, that's just how I've typically seen it expressed (with the + sign).
The ECU is looking for a speed signal from the VSS, but I never got a CEL for not hooking it up. Like I said mine was just wired directly to the cluster and it worked great.
Now that I think about it, I don't recall getting the transistor circuit to work, I think because I used a legacy transmission and the NPS works differently than in the WRX trans. That said, mine was wired to be in 1st gear all the time and it only tried to stall once or twice over the year and change that I drove it.

I'll see if I can locate all my schematics and notes from that swap.

Side Note: it's possible to convert a VDC harness to non VDC. The TCU connectors need to be re-pinned, just move the wires around and remove the ones specific to VDC, and there's like 6 wires going from the VDC module under the hood to the ECU that can be cut or removed or just not hooked up to anything. I documented the conversion a little bit in this thread, but the pics came out like crap.
VDC BASICALLY takes the place of ABS, even uses the ABS sensors in the wheel hubs.
Project Berserker - The Subaru SVX World Network

P.S. Ryan that's AWESOME! Sooooo many build threads in which I've been deprived of pics! Time to do some reading! Thank you!
 

·
Registered
2001 3.0L H6
Joined
·
6 Posts
BEING ABLE TO SEE THE PICTURES IS AMAZING! Also I'm not sure what transmission Dyne used but if it didn't work for you I wonder if it would work for me either since I doubt it's the same tranny... I guess I'll have to find out for myself. and thanks for bringing up the ability to convert a VDC harness! My friend has one and he is planning to swap but needs a non vdc. There's a lot more people wanting to do this swap than you'd think!

Questions/concerns
Do you wire the resistors to ground after you've connected them?

Where on the plug or TCU do I wire these resistors for the ATF sensor and solenoids? What pin numbers and or cable?

For the neutral wires and 1st gear wire I know I acquire one from B134 pin 8 and then connect it to the Neutral wire connected to the TCU, which wire on the TCU is N (Light Green Blue?) and which one is 1st gear? (Light Blue?)

After reviewing the pictures I can now see I understand the circuit for the transistor, I am still not sure how the clutch switch should be wired to the NPS though, do I wire a ground wire to the horizontal or vertical tab wire to the clutch switch, is the clutch switch already grounded when you push it in and I'm just overthinking this? Which wire on the clutch wire is the OUT wire and which wire on the NPS is the OUT wire? (I understand the concept, just need a clear evident photo or description) I know I'm asking a lot of questions but I'm new to this sort of stuff and I'm not proficient on some of the basics of electrics yet.

I also heard that apparently the 02 outback NPS and clutch switch worked opposite to what Dyne had used, I have a outback pedal assembly and a wrx NPS so I have no idea if it will work now :confused: There is another circuit diagram in the forum that explains getting rid of that problem but it is also the person that explained that the outback NPS and clutch switch is opposite to the RS / Impreza... Any thoughts or inputs? (after reviewing it could've just been a misunderstanding as well)

+ my main goal is to be able to pass inspection like Dyne managed.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
Good evening!

First, thanks to each of you who post here so that there is information shared around the swap. Amazing knowledge and courage to tackle these projects!

Allow me to introduce myself. I am not new to the car scene (been a Datsun enthusiast for a long time) but am only a couple of years into the Subaru car scene. There are currently 4 Subarus in the driveway, '07 Outback, '99 Impreza wagon-"Monster Car", '01 WRX (rhd 20k), and a rust free '01 RS2.5

That last car brings me to my question(s). My son and I are working on swapping an EZ30 into it after the 2.5 spun a bearing. His plan was to do so in the winter, but the failed engine moved his timeline up.

So, we have searched and we have read, re-read and then read some more about merging the harnesses to make the stock donor ECM work. We have a good chunk of the wiring planned through what we've read, but, I was wondering someone might have a list of the wires that NEED to be matched between harnesses so that the car will run. Currently it turns over, but won't start. It is a VDC car ('01 Legacy from Japan, rhd). We've read about tricking the TCU as well.

We have all of the wiring diagrams for both cars and have been using them religiously, but clearly we are missing something.

Thanks in advance for any and all help!
 

·
Registered
1995 EZ30 Coupe
Joined
·
494 Posts
opelbeetle: welcome to Subarus!

I'm guessing you've got a manual trans hooked up to it? That being said if it turns over the inhibitor switch must be happy. I've read about people having issues with the VDC donors.

According to my charts, the following wires from the chassis harness get connected to the ez30 ecu.

Ignition switch - b134-5
Self shutoff control - b134-6
Starter switch - b134-16
Fuel pump relay control b136-15
Control unit power supply - b137-2/3
Back up power supply - b137-10
MIL (not necessary?) - b137-15

Good luck.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
Thanks! I appreciate your welcome and the information very much!

We will be back at it this weekend. If we can get it running we will be happy. Then on to sorting the minor issues later.

Until the next question arises.....
 

·
Registered
2000 Outback Sport Silver
Joined
·
3 Posts
Glad to see people still using this thread for reference. I just got my swap running in march and have been autocrossing it since the start of the season. I used a VDC donor harness, but wired it according to the NON-VDC diagram, and it's been working fine.

My first attempt was to hook up as little as possible to get it running, which resulted in no fuel pump and i couldn't figure out why.

The next attempt was to hook up everything that was compatible with the existing wiring harness, but left out the TCM computer. I also ensured the ECM was wired to be in Neutral (I don't know if this is necessary). In the key ON position, the fuel pump primed and it was good after that.

Leaving the TCM unplugged resulted in a very high idle (~1200 RPM), but it was running.
 

·
Registered
2000 2.5RS Coupe, BRP
Joined
·
2 Posts
Glad to see people still using this thread for reference. I just got my swap running in march and have been autocrossing it since the start of the season. I used a VDC donor harness, but wired it according to the NON-VDC diagram, and it's been working fine.

My first attempt was to hook up as little as possible to get it running, which resulted in no fuel pump and i couldn't figure out why.

The next attempt was to hook up everything that was compatible with the existing wiring harness, but left out the TCM computer. I also ensured the ECM was wired to be in Neutral (I don't know if this is necessary). In the key ON position, the fuel pump primed and it was good after that.

Leaving the TCM unplugged resulted in a very high idle (~1200 RPM), but it was running.
Hey Luke,

Just to clarify, you do not have the TCM connected whatsoever? As for wiring the ECM to be in neutral, that is done by grounding pin B134-8? For your high idle were you able to adjust using the mechanical adjusters on the throttle body?

Thanks for the help
 

·
Registered
1995 EZ30 Coupe
Joined
·
494 Posts
So I've got an ez30 in my whip now

but it's not without issues.

1) Had the TCU in and it ran great but idled poorly, annoyingly so. Car would stall ...sometimes. 10% of the time maybe, only after warm up.
I pulled the TCU out to fix my erratic idle, but now cold start behaves very strangely for a moment then idles very low. Not too low, just lower than normal for cold start. Still runs great, never stalls.
I'll pull the harness and check/trace all my connections and see if I can get the TCU to play nice. I don't have the following connected, some or all may be required:
-brake switch input
-dropping resistor
-vss
-abs
-cruise (probably not)

2) At some point, a certain code will be thrown that causes a rev hang issue. Letting off after constant throttle will result in the rpms remaining constant for about a second, after increasing throttle the rpms jump a bit, or continue to rise. Only for a second or so, but definitely noticeable. I guess I'd describe it as a delay in the throttle signal?
After clearing my codes, even mid drive, the issue goes away and throttle functions as normal.

Interestingly, I've always seen my cars go full lean on deceleration. This H6 only goes full lean on decel while the code is registered. Before registering, or after clearing, it will stay at or close to stoich on decel.

3) Very occasionally, after about 10-15 min on the highway, the car will lose all (power/throttle/fuel/ignition) and remain on and idling but not really driveable. Above 1500 rpms or so there's some kind of fuel cut or something. A quick restart will fix this problem, and I don't get any extra codes?

4) No boost. Yet.
 

·
Registered
1995 EZ30 Coupe
Joined
·
494 Posts
All my research suggests that an m62 would be too small. You'll need to overspin it like crazy to make even 5 psi, that's about what guys were making on ej25's. I've got an M90 but fitment is a real challenge if you're not willing to cut your hood. I've put that project on hold until I sort out some more pressing issues.

An M90 on an ez30 would be amazing tho.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
So I've got an ez30 in my whip now

but it's not without issues.

1) Had the TCU in and it ran great but idled poorly, annoyingly so. Car would stall ...sometimes. 10% of the time maybe, only after warm up.
I pulled the TCU out to fix my erratic idle, but now cold start behaves very strangely for a moment then idles very low. Not too low, just lower than normal for cold start. Still runs great, never stalls.
I'll pull the harness and check/trace all my connections and see if I can get the TCU to play nice. I don't have the following connected, some or all may be required:
-brake switch input
-dropping resistor
-vss
-abs
-cruise (probably not)

2) At some point, a certain code will be thrown that causes a rev hang issue. Letting off after constant throttle will result in the rpms remaining constant for about a second, after increasing throttle the rpms jump a bit, or continue to rise. Only for a second or so, but definitely noticeable. I guess I'd describe it as a delay in the throttle signal?
After clearing my codes, even mid drive, the issue goes away and throttle functions as normal.

Interestingly, I've always seen my cars go full lean on deceleration. This H6 only goes full lean on decel while the code is registered. Before registering, or after clearing, it will stay at or close to stoich on decel.

3) Very occasionally, after about 10-15 min on the highway, the car will lose all (power/throttle/fuel/ignition) and remain on and idling but not really driveable. Above 1500 rpms or so there's some kind of fuel cut or something. A quick restart will fix this problem, and I don't get any extra codes?

4) No boost. Yet.

I can't answer all your questions but the reason it's probably not cutting fuel on decel is you that you don't have a vss. It will normally only cut the fuel while moving, when you're stopped there would be no reason to cut fuel. That might be causing some of your other issues too, I know mine will idle about 1000-1500 until you come to a complete stop, then it drops to 600 or so.

It seems like I had to drive mine for a while before it would quit stalling when you come to a stop. Recently the battery went dead and now it stalls when I have the AC on and come to a stop. I also have the AC hotwired so the ECU doesn't know that's on, which doesn't help.


FWIW I am using the TCU and have a bunch of resistors wired to it. Only codes I usually get are for evap since I didn't hook that up.


M90 would be cool, I'd like to see how that turns out.
 

·
Registered
1995 EZ30 Coupe
Joined
·
494 Posts
Dude, the vss, that's brilliant! Thanks, it never occurred to me. Unfortunately my H6 is dumping oil faster than I can refill it. Probly coming out soon.

FWIW I am using the TCU and have a bunch of resistors wired to it. Only codes I usually get are for evap since I didn't hook that up.
I do have resistors for the shift solenoids and atf temp, but I must've botched something because the TCU and ECU weren't communicating. In the past I've managed to fix all the codes with this swap, but that was into a legacy chassis.
 

·
Registered
1998, RS, Rally Blue 2.0 EJ20K
Joined
·
374 Posts
This is amazing. I'm currently in the process of swapping a 01 h6 ez30d (full donor available) into a 2005 forester with a 5speed.

You still available to answer questions. You did an amazing job!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
Hi buddies. Thus is my first post. I'm swapping an ez30 engine into a volkswagen combi. I am not really understanding the solenoids connection. I do know how to wire the gear one's but I'm not understanding how to wire the other resistors. Thanks in advance.
 
161 - 180 of 194 Posts
Top