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'99 2.5rs
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Discussion Starter #121
Do I still need to wire the shifter connector pins together to mimic neutral ?? because I left them alone... won't this cause a CEL ??
No you shouldn't have to; I only have the TCM "1" and "N" pins wired as on my circuit diagram:

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I just left the remainder of the shifter connector pins unconnected and I don't have any problem.

Recheck your wiring for the above circuit. You wouldn't be getting that P1590 or P1591 code if it's working properly
 

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2003 Baja Silver/black
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OK, thanks, I'll recheck if the transistor is damaged or not...
Do you have a picture or a part number of the NPN you used ??

at the moment I'm working to make my stock non VDC abs work with the auto TCU of the donor car harness I swapped in, (it had VDC so it's a little more work, but I'm almost done)

what is bugging me is when I check the freeze frame of the DTC is says that I was rolling 255mph...

how did you wired your vss signal... only on 1 or did you spliced it on both speed sensor input on the ecu

because when I check my wiring diagram I have 2 VSS signal input and one turbine speed sensor input...


No you shouldn't have to; I only have the TCM "1" and "N" pins wired as on my circuit diagram:


I just left the remainder of the shifter connector pins unconnected and I don't have any problem.

Recheck your wiring for the above circuit. You wouldn't be getting that P1590 or P1591 code if it's working properly
 

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'99 2.5rs
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195 Posts
Discussion Starter #124
OK, thanks, I'll recheck if the transistor is damaged or not...
Do you have a picture or a part number of the NPN you used ??

at the moment I'm working to make my stock non VDC abs work with the auto TCU of the donor car harness I swapped in, (it had VDC so it's a little more work, but I'm almost done)

what is bugging me is when I check the freeze frame of the DTC is says that I was rolling 255mph...

how did you wired your vss signal... only on 1 or did you spliced it on both speed sensor input on the ecu

because when I check my wiring diagram I have 2 VSS signal input and one turbine speed sensor input...
I believe I used a 2n3904 npn transistor.

I wired the VSS only to the ecu (B134-1) and my gauge cluster. I (surprisingly) didn't have to do anything with the 2nd VSS or TSS inputs and it seems to work okay.
 

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2003 Baja Silver/black
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maybe because I have a vdc donor car...

Anyway anybody else got some progress to tell ??

On my side I'm working like crazy and I haven't checked the CEL yet...
I also recieved my headgaskets kit because they are toasted.. and I can't run more than 80km without spilling coolant everywhere...
 

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2003 Baja Silver/black
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So I finally had another chance to check the car tonight... and I'm totally stumped...
I'll do my best to explain it clearly
I wired everything as you said, but there is still one strange problem...

I can only get a ground on the b134-8/N by pressing the clutch...
it doesn't give me ground when the shifter is not in gear...
it's like if the neutral position switch on the transmission doesn't ''open'' when the shifter isn't in gear...

BUT... the neutral switch is properly wired in line with the clutch switch
I did : ground ---- Neutral----clutch--- wire
and I tested it and the wiring and it's opening and closing properly...

-First- I tested it in continuity with the multimeter directly at the switch on the transmission. it's OK
-Second- I took a jumper wire I DID WIRED ON THE POSITIVE OF THE BATTERY TO A TEST LIGHT and then put the test light probe in the TCM''1'' pin... the tester light up so it mean that my ground circuit is good (the light goes off if i put it in neutral Or press the clutch)...


But still I dont have ground on the b134-8 and N pin when the shifter isn't in gear, only when I press the clutch...

I hope it's clear enough that somebody can understand and help me solve my problem
 

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I need help. I used a full donor car outback and swapped in the complete wiring harness front and rear into my 97 Brighton 5 speed. I found b55-14 (N) on the TCM connector and b154-1 on the inhibitor switch connector. Do I splice these together? Ground both? I do not have the shifter anymore nor do I have the abs unit. Car will not start.
 

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2003 Baja Silver/black
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So I finally had another chance to check the car tonight... and I'm totally stumped...
I'll do my best to explain it clearly
I wired everything as you said, but there is still one strange problem...

I can only get a ground on the b134-8/N by pressing the clutch...
it doesn't give me ground when the shifter is not in gear...
it's like if the neutral position switch on the transmission doesn't ''open'' when the shifter isn't in gear...

BUT... the neutral switch is properly wired in line with the clutch switch
I did : ground ---- Neutral----clutch--- wire
and I tested it and the wiring and it's opening and closing properly...

-First- I tested it in continuity with the multimeter directly at the switch on the transmission. it's OK
-Second- I took a jumper wire I DID WIRED ON THE POSITIVE OF THE BATTERY TO A TEST LIGHT and then put the test light probe in the TCM''1'' pin... the tester light up so it mean that my ground circuit is good (the light goes off if i put it in neutral Or press the clutch)...


But still I dont have ground on the b134-8 and N pin when the shifter isn't in gear, only when I press the clutch...

I hope it's clear enough that somebody can understand and help me solve my problem
WELL WELL WELL... turns out the transistor was bad...I think I overheated it when soldering it to the board...

Now, I took another transistor # 2222a (supposed to be stronger than the 2n3904 ones, they are able to get up to 60 volts to their base)
I crimped it to my three wires without using the pictured resistor and everything seems to be working fine, i got rid of the p1590/p1591 codes for good...

BUT, I still have a CEL... P0705 transmission range switch PRND321
There is no driveability issues at all but I want my swap to be perfectly running AKA no CEL at all... I'm stumped...

I'm reallyy happy now because I can drive it as I want without stalling it or over revving it on cold startup... but this still bugs me a little...
 

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2000 Outback Sport Silver
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Alright, First post on the forums! I've picked up a EZ30D locally from a 2001 legacy outback and going to rebuild this winter. Will be going into a 2000 outback sport wagon. Anyhow, glad to see everyone's success with this build and may have some questions on the little details, but seems pretty straight forward.
 

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2000 Outback Sport Silver
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This thread was 10 times more helpful than the "BEST EVER" h6 swap thread, but i guess they're all about the EG33 on that one, and it's hard to comb through the 250 pages of stuff. Anyhow, thanks for the hard work and comprehensive wiring examples.
 

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For anyone who has the stalling issue there are a couple of simple things you can do. Firstly, on the side of the IACV is a black plastic thing which is held on by two torx screws. You can just use a hammer and gently knock it down/towards the front of the car to slightly increase the idle speed. This on it's own didn't work for me as it still adjusted itself to a fairly low 600-650 rpm idle. Second is to use something like the FreeSSM software to increase the idle speed. I've increased mine by +150rpm which has put it around 850-900, with +100 rpm with the AC on. Since I've done that is has never stalled while coming to a stop, and has cleared up a slight hesitation/stumble on take off.

Would be good to know if anyone has successfully had the factory ECU tuned. I haven't been able to download the ROM from my ECU, although I can connect to it to read codes, log and reset the ECU.
 

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The subaru of many acronyms
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I don't think you can reflash the ecu via opensource with a tactrix cable etc, that wasn't available on 3.0s until 2005. I'd like to think that if these ecus were reflashable with logic used on other ecus it would be known about. Im not well versed on the actual hex code and how its transmitted back and forth from the ecu, but it might be something you can try and figure out, maybe theres a "hard flash" option like the 06+ wrx ecus where you directly wire in a usb serial converter into the ecu with 5 specific points on the ecu. Might be worth your while to try and pick a spare up on ebay to mess with. But if you find anything out definitely post up here it'd be interesting to see whats available for these.
 

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We were able to rip the ROM from the stock EZ30D ECU in my that I swapped in my forester using ECUFlash by selecting 2002 WRX as the ecu type.

When you did the swap... Did you make sure to splice line end check 2 to pin 5 on the OBD2 port and the move it to Pin 8 (there is nothing in PIN 8 and normally on the RS OBD2 port and pin 5 that is there isn't important)

The pin 5 wire should be green with a red stripe if I remember right but I'll double check tomorrow. I can take a picture to show what I mean. If you need the EZ30D pinout with my notes let me know and I'll post it here. We are working on getting the definitions sorted now so we can tune this and get rid of those pesky transmission codes
 

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The subaru of many acronyms
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Its a denso ecu, and generally Denso ecus share the same reflash logic across similar era ecus. The case looks similar to the 16bit 02-03 usdm/jdm ecus. Might be able to use most of the logic for those ecus. Just have to make sure the obd2 pin is correct and you have the "test mode" connector equivalent which is just a grounding connector for one pin. Have you tried loading the ROM into RomRaider or ecuflash and viewing parameters with the later ez30 definitions.
 

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ALL THE STI PARTS
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Firstly, thank you to all the contributors for paving the way here.

I just can't make sense of the NPS in this circuit though, it implies that it is a SPDT switch (single pole, double throw; single common pole with two others to switch to) when it's a SPST (single common pole, single throw pole).


According to the FSM (for an '02 Outback, I'm not doing this swap in an Impreza) the NPS is open in gear, closed when in neutral, which is the exact opposite of what this circuit shows. Because of this, I just can't work out how the TCU "1" pin can ever see ground, meaning the transistor is always on, meaning your car thinks it's in neutral all the time. I'm just one man on the internet, if your cars work with this circuit all the better, I'm just saying.

The clutch switch isn't a SPDT either, but this drawing can still work since there's two independent SPST switches that you can tap on the clutch. One shows closed when the clutch in, the other shows open.

I approached it a little differently because of this, adding in a second transistor to help separate the logic; one to handle the TCU "1" pin, one for TCU "N" and B134-8. Ignore everything else in the picture besides the circuit in the lower right, there's some other trick stuff we're trying on this swap to make it a lot simpler for people, but I can only comment on them after we know they actually, y'know, work.



I'll post a cleaner version after it works well enough to put the dash back in lol
 

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98 black RS
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Yes I too am looking for updates, specifically from that guy who was able to load a WRX Image onto the EZ ECU?




also does no one have the ability to just buy a manual ECU from Japan?
 

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1996 Impreza lx 2dr
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This thread is excellent. I am preparing to do this swap in my 96 Impreza lx. I will contribute anything I can. Not sure if having a speedo cable trans will add any issues but at least the car is obd II. This thread is much more informative than the best ever h6 thread. I truly believe this swap is worth the blood sweat and tears
 

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'99 2.5rs
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Discussion Starter #140
wiring stuff
Sorry I'm not on rs25 much anymore.

I guess I used the wrong switch image, the ones on the car are SPST. When the clutch is pushed in, the switch is open. When the car is in neutral, the switch is open.

When the clutch is out, and the car is in gear, the TCM '1' pin is pulled to ground and the TCM thinks it's in gear. The base of the NPN is also pulled to ground, so TCM 'N' and B134-8 remain high

When either the clutch is pushed in or the car is put in neutral, the path for TCM '1' to ground is broken so it remains high, which makes the base on the NPN transistor is pulled high, which causes the TCM 'N' and b134-8 pins to be pulled to ground, so the TCM think it's in neutral.

Soooooo it'll work on a 2.5rs. It looks like you're getting it figured out for yours.
 
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