[Skidd]

I see countless threads where people suggest the "starter bump" method to remove your crank pulley. While sure, this works, it's NOT the best way to do it. And, then your still stuck with correctly torquing it back up. I've mentioned quite a few times, this alternative method, but I'm not sure it's been quite clear how to do it. If you don't have, nor want to spring for the Subaru Specific Tool, you can do this to loosen, and re-torque your crank pulley with ease.

All you need is 2x3/8" short extensions, a long screw driver, and your 22mm socket on a breaker bar. Insert the 2 extensions in two of the small holes in the crank pulley. Wedge the screwdriver between teh extensions and prop the handle on something. I used the alternator pulley. Insert the 22mm, and go to town!!

Major High-Res version

Mjor High-Res version

So please, no more "starter-bump" sujestions for the crank pulley. There is no way you can convince me it's easier, safer, nor better than this method.

edit: Check out Storms post #9 for what appears to be one of the Factory Methods to do this
http://www.rs25.com/forums/f105/t113885-better-way-remove-your-crank-pulley.html#post1774930

 

[RotarFreak]

That's great, should save noobies a lot of headaches! I actually busted an alternator many years ago by jamming it..... retarded idea I might add.


Unfortunately, these of us with light weight pulleys are still stuck with using the old belt to the hammer method (works wonders) or jamming something somewhere

 

[RotarFreak]

I say sticky!

 

[elislider]

that way kinda works, tho if you arent careful (or if the pulley is REALLY on there as ive had to deal with) you can easily deform the rubber inside the crank pulley and throw it off balance... which obviously is bad. also some of the crank pulleys dont have the rubber in them (couldnt tell you what years or models, but ive seen it) so theres nothing to brace the pieces to.

id say easiest method is with a impact gun, but usually its not possible when the engine is in the car.

the method i would recommend for when its really on there (and standard breaker + holding brake in gear) is with a vice-grip chain vice

pull the belts off obviously then wrap the chain around the pulley and put a extension bar on the rounded handle of the vice grip (or a larger pipe with the end smashed in an oblong to fit over both handles of the vice). then a standard breaker on the crank bolt


<personal story>
the crank pulley on my swap (v3 sti) was so hard to get off we couldnt do it with an impact (engine out of car) or with the method posted in this thread, nor with the chain vicegrip alone. we had to use the chain vicegrip with a 5 foot pipe and then a breaker with a 5 foot cheater on the bolt, 1 person on each pushing towards each other. yes we used liquid wrench every day prior for 3 days too. easily the most frustrating thing ive ever had to do on my swap (moreso than the wiring or the fwd->awd conversion)

 

[t3hWIT]

Run away. I damaged three crank pulleys using that method.

 

[Brydon]

You just put the breaker bar on the frame rail. Then tap the starter. Works every time and takes 2 seconds.

 

[elislider]

Run away. I damaged three crank pulleys using that method.

how? well... strange. mine didnt get damaged. i suppose you could wrap the pulley with some kevlar or something. moral of my story was that it was literally the only way we could get it off + brute force of 2 guys

You just put the breaker bar on the frame rail. Then tap the starter. Works every time and takes 2 seconds.

that makes sense, never thought of that...

 

[Skidd]

You just put the breaker bar on the frame rail. Then tap the starter. Works every time and takes 2 seconds.

Dude... did you even read the OP?

I was attempting to present an Option that was NOT the starter-bump method. Plus, the starter-method is only good for removal. It's of no use for getting 130 ft/lbs of torque back into the bolt for installation.

So, some method of locking the crank pulley is still very much needed.

 

[Storm]

This method doesn't work if you don't have a stock crank pulley.

The easiest way I know and am comfortable doing it is by sticking a medium screwdriver in the HOLE PROVIDED in the trans bellhousing. It's right below the dowel pins.
1. Insert screwdriver
2. 22mm socket on long breaker bar
2a. Wiggle crank to ensure screwdriver has engaged the ring gear on the flywheel
3. Pull from the passenger side gently until screwdriver has positively locked the motor still.
4. loosen crank bolt.

 

[danimprs]

wish I thought of something better before I used an angled piece of oak jammed in the flywheel. :screwy: Oh well.

 

[2slo4u]

If you put the car in third gear (for the standard guys) and lock the parking brake, you can break it loose with just the breaker bar. The car will start to roll until the slack runs out. I've also done it by putting a screwdriver through the upper access hole when I had the auto transmission and once with the starter bump method. On the standard I've been able to just lock it in gear and set the brake.

 

[t3hWIT]

I've broken a few loose that way, and found it to be the easiest method. I used 5th instead of 3rd though.

 

[Shiffy]

I've broken a few loose that way, and found it to be the easiest method. I used 5th instead of 3rd though.

+1, 5th gear requires the most torque to make the car move so the ebrake is least likely to slip in 5th

 

[SleepySubie]

not bad i just left the car in gear and it broke free just fine for me

 

[Huffer]

This method doesn't work if you don't have a stock crank pulley.

The easiest way I know and am comfortable doing it is by sticking a medium screwdriver in the HOLE PROVIDED in the trans bellhousing. It's right below the dowel pins.
1. Insert screwdriver
2. 22mm socket on long breaker bar
2a. Wiggle crank to ensure screwdriver has engaged the ring gear on the flywheel
3. Pull from the passenger side gently until screwdriver has positively locked the motor still.
4. loosen crank bolt.

I'm backing this man all the way.
Storm Tuned It.

 

[Atlas]

The screwdriver method is definitely not appropriate in all cases (say, a rusty old motor), but I don't think the starter tap is always appropriate either. Always good to have another tool or way of doing things, though.

 

[RS22b]

I've broken a few loose that way, and found it to be the easiest method. I used 5th instead of 3rd though.

Agreed. I have always used 5th gear.

Automatic cars are tricky though and this method doesn't work. That is when I go to the access hole to lock up the flex plate.

 

[The Scooby]

I use the starter bump to loosen it

Then put a prybar in the whole for the flywheel and hold it that way while tightening the crank bolt.

Done it this way for years and have broken a few 1/2inch breaker bars tightening it before the prybar would slip

 

[Jefff]

I grab the pulley with my left hand, and unscrew the bolt with my right hand fingers... straight uP!

 

[RotarFreak]

The hammer / belt method is similar to this, but wont damage anything.

• Loop the belt around the pulley and wrap it around the hammer handle.
• Use hammer as a lever and jam it somewhere in the engine.
• Put the car in 5th, (I believe I use reverse) and go to town.

EXPECT movement, and don't run over your self.

From all of the suggestions above, I really like the screwdriver / small socket into the bellhousing. Didn't know that was possible, and it sounds like the easiest & safest way.