Did you use GD lateral links and axles?

 

I used everything out of a 2005 JDM STI Forester. Tranny, diff, subframes, lateral links, Brembos and so on.

 

SG Foresters have the same track width as the GD, which is wider than the GC. That's why your wheels are out further.

 

I reused the GC crossmember, mustache bar and trailing arms in my 6mt swap. Everything else was 04 STI (hubs, diff, axles) or GG WRX wagon (06 Saabaru Aero to be precise), such as lateral links. Wheels are as centered as with the stock equipment.

When I did a lot of suspension changes to my 98 OBS (suspension, rear disc swap, sways, etc), the wheels visually pulled forward like I think you're talking about. This typically happens when you lift an OBS. The solution in that case is Gen 1 outback trailing arms, they are slightly longer and make the wheels almost centered again.

 

well the JDM JDM Forester is pretty much is pretty much an 04 STI. And yes the problem I have which is not really a drivability problem is more of a aesthetic problem is that the rear wheels looks like they are push to the rear a bit. So to fix the problem I need shorter trailing arms?

 

Ah, I think I misunderstood the question. Is this about the wheels appearing centered from the side profile, or poking out too far from the rear profile? If it's about the wheels not appearing centered from the side profile, it's likely the use of the SG Forester STI trailing arms.

 

^You got to it before me, that was the only thing I could think of that would push the wheels further back.

Haven't posted in a while but this thread was a huge help. I'm still running the same setup I put in 5 years ago without any problems. 05 usdm 6spd, wrx wagon driveshaft, 3.9 r160, rs front axles, wrx wagon rear axles and rs hubs/spindles on all corners.

No plans to really change anything in the drivetrain but will be switching from H6 rear brakes to 05 LGT rears soon.

 

You can see in this picture. Is not much but is not 100% centered.

 

Wow, thats pretty dramatic. Yea I would say try to get a measurement on the length of GD rear trailing arms to compare first before doing anything.

 

Thank you for the advice. Will measure up then arms and then look around for shorter ones to bring the wheel forward. On the other hand, by adding shorter arms and bring the wheel center the Toe will be super negative. I guess I will have to get rid of the STI lateral links and get adjustable.

 

Is your car's toe actually neutral right now? I'd expect it to be off currently, and be corrected by the trailing arm from the proper chassis.

 

I got an alignment a while back and is neutral at the moment. It if I replace the trailing arms I don’t know if there will be enough adjustments to compensate for the the toe.

 

It's gotta be your trailing arms. Do you still have the GC ones?

 

Nope. Trash all the GC stuff when I did the swap.

 

Honestly I wouldn't expect this to cause any toe issues that couldn't be aligned out with the stock hardware. While I haven't done it myself, many people run GD width lateral links without toe issues.

 

Ok. I will track down a set of GD trailing arms. Are the GC and GD trailing arms the same size?

 

I don't know if they're identical, but they're at least very similar. Either one would be better than the SG arms.

 

Thanks !

 

Ok apologies for being a newb about this, because transmissions aren't my strongest area of knowledge, but from reading this thread it sounds like option 2 is my best bet?

I basically want to have a 6 speed dccd set up that will fit a non wide body coupe (I don't want to flare fenders or go wide body), and also have the flexibility to use the 4/2 calipers (my car is for spirited driving and daily driving, probably don't need brembos for that).

And it sounds like if I do the ej207 jdm swap, if I have a usdm transmission set up I should still be ok (unless I'm missing something).

So for me, I should start sourcing for option 2? So basically look at junk yards for 04 STIs with healthy undercarriages and raid them for the specific parts listed in this thread?

 

Ok apologies for being a newb about this, because transmissions aren't my strongest area of knowledge, but from reading this thread it sounds like option 2 is my best bet?

I basically want to have a 6 speed dccd set up that will fit a non wide body coupe (I don't want to flare fenders or go wide body), and also have the flexibility to use the 4/2 calipers (my car is for spirited driving and daily driving, probably don't need brembos for that).

And it sounds like if I do the ej207 jdm swap, if I have a usdm transmission set up I should still be ok (unless I'm missing something).

So for me, I should start sourcing for option 2? So basically look at junk yards for 04 STIs with healthy undercarriages and raid them for the specific parts listed in this thread?

If you are doing the ej207 swap just get one that includes the matching 6 speed and I would get the brembos too. You quickly enter a gray area when you mix and match parts. It works, but information becomes questionable and repairs down the road get difficult when you are trying to remember what year and model a part came from.

Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk

 

Double post - oops

 

For the transmission back, the JDM parts (outside of gear ratios) are interchangeable with the USDM equivalents.

As far as the track width of the car, that's determined by the suspension, not the drivetrain. Within a JDM kit, you could find a '01-03 5x100 set so that you got the Brembos and didn't have to worry about your struts bolting in. Newer than that would be 5x114.3.

The parts that determine your track width are:
Front: control arms
Rear: lateral links

People run wider axles from the GD in the GC track, and I'm doing it in the rear of one of my cars. I've not tried it in the front, but I've not had any issue with the rears for years.

 

would this work with the GF wagons?

 

I've performed swap #2 on my RS and swap #3 on my OBS, it'll work just fine.

 

Does anyone know if 5x100 axles fit 5x114 front hubs? I’m trying to stay with GC track width for now while converting to 5x114.

 

They do not, they're different and incompatible.

 

Thanks for confirming, I know people have run the longer sti axles on narrow track width with no issues, just thought better safe than sorry if possible.

On another note, GD knuckles are getting way too $$ these days, just bought a set of front VA ones to try, couldn’t find any concrete evidence whether they’re the same as GD dimensionally, will find out soon.

 

VA knuckles are part of a totally different suspension design and I would not expect it to work easily, if at all. But good luck!

 

From what I read, GR coilovers are direct bolt on for VA, people had success using GR knuckles and said Subaru front suspension geometry remain largely unchanged. Got a good deal for the VA knuckles so we’ll see.
The rear is more straightforward, I’ll just be getting new 5x114 hubs to press into existing rear knuckles.

 

My mistake, I was thinking about the rear hubs as far as geometry. It would likely work, go ahead and post up your results!

As far as the rear, if you're running R160 rear knuckles, the 5x114 hubs won't simply press in. The entire knuckle is different.

 

As far as the rear, if you're running R160 rear knuckles, the 5x114 hubs won't simply press in. The entire knuckle is different.

Glad to see you still posting here dude!

 

You’re right, maybe R160 and R180 rear knuckles are different as far as hub fitment, I was thinking about how 04 sti guys just press 5x114 hubs into their rear knuckle. Fortunately my type R is R180 so it “should” work even though it’s GC R180??

 

I thought the 5x114 hubs are all bolt in not press like the older 5x100

 

Rear is still press in

 

Is it possible to mate to an ej20k?

 

Yep, it'll even mate to an EJ18 if you really want to be silly. The phase 1 engines just use four trans bolts though, not the full six.

 

Throw your GC trailing arms in, that will solve it.