I apologize in advance for the long ass post. Meant to type just a quick reply and then.. idk what happened

I can't say for sure how damaging it is to use your handbrake to slide, but I do have a theory:
Pulling the handbrake for just a second to initiate a slide really isn't much different than if you did a panic stop and while all of the weight was on the front wheels, your rear wheels started to lock up while the fronts continued to rotate normally. In both instances, you're getting momentary rear lockup while the front wheels continue to spin. I don't think anyone's ever blown their center diff or even worried about their transmission after a panic stop so I'm tempted to say, while it's technically bad for your diff, it might also be fine?

I've done lots of snowy parking lot donuts in all of my subarus, usually using the handbrake to initiate, and never had an immediate failure or anything like that. But I only do that a handful of times a year so more prolonged use might be more damaging.

I remember reading about an STi group N hydraulic handbrake that included a switch to unlock the center diff while the handbrake was pulled (I think the regular handbrake in an STi does this too but not sure). That was meant for a DCCD transmission though which has an electronic and mechanical center diff, so the switch would override and unlock the electric mechanism but there would still be a mechanical connection in place. Does this mean it's okay for the handbrake to be pulled with a purely mechanical center diff like the 5 speeds have? Iunno

I think handbrake initiations in a rally car are probably like clutch kicks in a drift car; a necessary evil. Yes it's hard on the car, but for a track car some parts that normally last tens of thousands of miles become consumables. If you're still doing rallycross, I would ask the other drivers at the next event and get their thoughts, they have way more first hand experience than us forum dwellers.

and lastly..
It's hard to maintain a slide in an awd car; as you give more throttle (like you would do in a rwd car) the front end wants to pull the car back to straight. What you need for longer slides is more momentum and initiation speed. You have to think a lot closer to how you'd drive a fwd car than how you'd drive rwd. There's no good way to modulate the back end of the car mid-slide except for pulling the handbrake over and over again, so you need to have enough momentum when you initiate that it's going to carry you the full length of the slide and not run out of steam midway through. This means it can be super easy to overshoot a corner, so I try to think of it like this: There's a "window" where you enter a slide with enough speed that if you don't do anything else, you're going to fly off track. But, if you do get the car facing the corner exit and apply throttle, you can pull yourself back on track. The task at hand is to put yourself within that window, and then apply enough throttle to hold the slide.

Someone with real track experience can probably give a better explanation. I am but a lowly rural backroads guy.

 

It's hard to maintain a slide in an awd car; as you give more throttle (like you would do in a rwd car) the front end wants to pull the car back to straight. What you need for longer slides is more momentum and initiation speed. You have to think a lot closer to how you'd drive a fwd car than how you'd drive rwd. There's no good way to modulate the back end of the car mid-slide except for pulling the handbrake over and over again, so you need to have enough momentum when you initiate that it's going to carry you the full length of the slide and not run out of steam midway through. This means it can be super easy to overshoot a corner, so I try to think of it like this: There's a "window" where you enter a slide with enough speed that if you don't do anything else, you're going to fly off track. But, if you do get the car facing the corner exit and apply throttle, you can pull yourself back on track. The task at hand is to put yourself within that window, and then apply enough throttle to hold the slide.

The whole point of AWD is not to slide, slidding is slow. but like it was said above with enough entry speed you will slide. The benefit of the AWD is that with enough power applied, the vehicle will absolutely go where the front tires are pointed. So you're able to enter slippery corners much faster and still have the benefit of traction, unlike 2wd alternatives. That all being said, you need to have power left over if and when you do slide in a corner, if you use all your power to initiate the slide, you have none left over to recover from the slide.

 

On the topic of whether or not its safe for your trans to use the handbrake, i just realized something. Arent most 5mt center diffs open? If so, should be zero issue at all using the handbrake right?

 

Negative, the conventional 5 speeds have a viscous LSD center.

 

Push the clutch in whenever the handbrake is pulled...
For example, a bootleggers turn is clutch in, turn wheel, pull ebrake, shift into first, as the car is rotating, put the ebrake down as you launch. If you have enough power to keep the wheels spinning, pump the throttle and you can widen the turn. If you have enough power to start this around 60mph and shift into 2nd, you'll be able to slide across the median on a devided highway

 

Here's a link to what I'm talking about. 34mph seems to be about the optimal speed in my 95. My ebrake needs to be adjusted so that's why I initiated this with a Scandinavian flick.

Chad Stamper on Instagram: "I do love me a good bootleggers turn. #subachad #quara #subaradventures"

5 likes, 0 comments - subachad on May 14, 2023: "I do love me a good bootleggers turn. #subachad #quara #subaradventures".

www.instagram.com

 

Another... A little too fast, I dropped the back tires into the dirt.

 

I don’t use the handbrake at all in rallycross haven’t found a turn where it would be helpful. Learning how to weight transfer and left foot brake is gonna help the most. But to answer your question as long as you’re off throttle pulling the hand brake isn’t too horrible on things especially in dirt. Get a rear lsd or weld yours and you’ll have a bit more fun oversteering out there.

 

How long have you been rallycrossing? A bit late, but I'm looking to try it out this year. I'm told it's addicting lol

 

Push in the clutch first before pulling the ebrake. It also helps to have it properly adjusted otherwise you have to do a little scandinavian flick to get it around. I do love me a good bootleggers turn and a 2.5 in a GC or whatever 93-01 is enough to come out with the tires spinning. Even without a rear LSD though it would make driving slideways more predictable. Check me out on instagram, I have some dirt, mud and dry action on there. My car isn't even "ready". I basically have whatever springs someone put on that are too soft, blown struts which make it unsafe when going over bumps. Imagine a cell phone ringing on a table. Usually the back goes left but sometimes likes to mix it up and go right. I have a 17mm rear bar since I drive on dirt and it's very neutral. The 2.5 allows the tires to spin while sideways on dirt and since my carrier bearing bushings went out and I basically made a temporary fix out of some dishwasher drain hose, bolts and washers, I now have more rear bias and can spin all four on pavement if its cool out.

Bootleggers turn...
Basically around 30-34 is the sweet spot on pavement and dirt. Any faster go to about 45, and I'm really about 50hp short but once it comes around and you lower the ebrake, turn the other direction while releasing the clutch and giving her the beans to do a 360. Have your window though, otherwise you get a face full of rocks.. you just did a 360 on pavement though and wont really care.

What's ADHD?

Oh yeah

With my 95 gearing on pavement or dirt, 30-34mph
Turn left (or right) while also pushing the clutch in
Once the weight starts to shift which is basically right after turning the wheel, pull the ebrake
While the ebrake is up, put it in first, then put the ebrake down as you also floor it, release the clutch and are now heading the other direction.

There's ways to vary the width by the timing of your clutch release and amount of tire spin with 170hp you are limited.

Here's an example on pavement, I was going about 5mph too fast and dipped a tire into the dirt while the car was going backwards and all 4 spinning it was uglier than the video shows.



Here's one in water which the guy in the other car basically stopped before I even started and I had to very casually drive away.

Oh yeah "oops" space is very important for safety for yourself and others, not to mention damage. What if a tire pops. "oops space" is the difference between a tire and control arm from hitting a curb or worse if you hit a car or pole or something.

Didn't mean for all the blah blah, I love driving fun, I also believe in doing so safely.