Now either prop up the hood or remove it along with the hood prop. You are going to want to have a lot of room to work around the car, I highly reccomend removing it if you have help. To remove the hood there are 4 12mm bolts and the washer nozzle tube.
http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w129/scoobysnack_photo/engine_removal/EngineRemoval-004.jpg

Remove the Battery: There are 2 bolts (10mm) for the terminals and 2 bolts (10mm) for the tie down.
http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w129/scoobysnack_photo/engine_removal/EngineRemoval-003.jpg

Remove Intake: since I don’t have a stock intake I am leaving pictures out of this: Just remove the intake leave the vacuum lines attached to the engine, if you are worried about what one goes where use the white out and make notations i.e. 1 and 1, 2 and 2, etc.

Jack the car up: I try and get it pretty high so there is plenty of room to work. Place it on jack stands and make sure the rear tires are chucked.

Drain Radiator: It’s now time to drain the radiator. The drain is located at the bottom of the radiator on the passengers side. The screw is a plastic wing nut looking thing. Its a tight fit for your hands.
If you have a big pan and are not worried about a mess just take the screw out completely, it comes out 10x faster - RS22B
http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w129/scoobysnack_photo/engine_removal/EngineRemoval-006.jpg

Insert a small tub or place a plastic container below the car to catch the coolant. It leaks out of the screw part so having something to catch the extra fluid is a good idea. Turn until you see coolant coming out. Also while you are in there remove the plug for the fan. To do this lift the tab away from the plug and pull the plug out
http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w129/scoobysnack_photo/engine_removal/EngineRemoval-007.jpg
See it leaking! :lol:

http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w129/scoobysnack_photo/engine_removal/EngineRemoval-008.jpg
Pic of my container and note the pan, I found this at a junk yard, it works great for this, brakes, anything you dont want a mess over your floor over

Remove Coolant Resivor While that is draining remove the Coolant reservoir. There are 2 10mm bolts holding it on.
Alternatively you can leave this connected and pull it with the radiator - GOTJ
http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w129/scoobysnack_photo/engine_removal/EngineRemoval-010.jpg

Now remove the clip from the other side and remove the reservoir, it requires a little bit of force and jiggling and it will come out
http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w129/scoobysnack_photo/engine_removal/EngineRemoval-013.jpg

 

Now its time to crawl under the car

Remove the Second Fan Plug: This is for the drivers side fan
http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w129/scoobysnack_photo/engine_removal/EngineRemoval-017.jpg

Remove the Headers: 6-14mm nuts for the RS, 4-14mm nuts for the L. Be ready for the studs to come out with them, if they are rusted bad enough you might want to think about replacing them. Remove the 2-17mm rear bolts and nuts that connect the header to the Cat.
http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w129/scoobysnack_photo/engine_removal/EngineRemoval-015.jpg

http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w129/scoobysnack_photo/engine_removal/EngineRemoval-016.jpg

Take off the 2 10mm bolt holding on the thermostat cover, have a bucket it because you will have a good amount of coolant coming out. Also be very careful removing these one of mine snapped, luckly there is enough thread left that I can still get it out.
http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w129/scoobysnack_photo/engine_removal/EngineRemoval-014.jpg

Remove Motor Mount Nuts: While you are under there remove the 14mm motor mount nuts and washers; one on each side.
http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w129/scoobysnack_photo/engine_removal/EngineRemoval-019.jpg

http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w129/scoobysnack_photo/engine_removal/EngineRemoval-018.jpg

Remove Lower Trans Bolts: Next remove the lower engine/transmission bolts (14mm) driver side. The top one is a bolt and the bottom is a nut. It will take some maneuvering to get to them
http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w129/scoobysnack_photo/engine_removal/EngineRemoval-020.jpg

As for the passengers side it is easier to get these from the top.

Now that hopefully most of the coolant is out you can tighten the drain plug and remove the plastic tube. There is a clip on the radiator securing the radiator inlet hose (passenger side), with a 10mm wrench loosen it and remove the hose. Next remove the 2 bolts from the top of the radiator. Pull the radiator up to remove it. You will just have to maneuver the lower radiator hose (drivers side) around the wiring that is there. Place the radiator off to the side
http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w129/scoobysnack_photo/engine_removal/EngineRemoval-012.jpg

 

Remove Lower Trans Bolts: Next remove the lower engine/transmission bolts (14mm) driver side. The top one is a bolt and the bottom is a nut. It will take some maneuvering to get to them

As for the passengers side it is easier to get these from the top.

Do you have a better picture of this? I cant find them.

 

Now go ahead and lower the car!

Remove the V-belt Cover: Remove the 3-10mm nut and bolts and the 12mm bolt.
http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w129/scoobysnack_photo/engine_removal/EngineRemoval-011.jpg

Disconnect the alternator harness: 1 plug in alternator, 1 12mm nut, 1 plug in the AC Compressor, and the tie. Weave it out so it is out of the way, place it where the battery used to be.
http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w129/scoobysnack_photo/engine_removal/EngineRemoval-022.jpg

Remove Throttle Cables: Next remove the throttle cable/cables. Unscrew the 12mm nut as shown, you can see where there is no thread, slide it back to that point and it will come out. For the RS you will have to do this twice. Do Not loosen the other nut, this way everything goes back together correctly.
http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w129/scoobysnack_photo/engine_removal/EngineRemoval-023.jpg

Next pull the wire forward so there is enough slack to undo it from the throttle body. If you have ever taken the brakes off your mountain bike it is the same concept. Weave it out and pull it to where the battery used to be.
http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w129/scoobysnack_photo/engine_removal/EngineRemoval-025.jpg

Remove the Alternator Belt. Unscrew (a)-12mm then loosen (b)-12mm until the belt is loose enough to come off. Normally you wouldn't remove (a) but it needs to come off for the next step
http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w129/scoobysnack_photo/engine_removal/EngineRemoval-026.jpg

Unbolt Power Steering Pump: Remove 2-10mm bolts (passenger side)
http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w129/scoobysnack_photo/engine_removal/EngineRemoval-028.jpg

Remove bolt (12mm) Its behind the PS Pump you will need an extention to get to it.
http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w129/scoobysnack_photo/engine_removal/EngineRemoval-029.jpg

Remove 2 bolts under PS Pump (12mm) It should be loose now so place power steering pump off to side as far out of the way as it will go
http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w129/scoobysnack_photo/engine_removal/EngineRemoval-039.jpg

Undo plug, It should be loose now so place power steering pump off by the fender as far out of the way as it will go.
http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w129/scoobysnack_photo/engine_removal/EngineRemoval-036.jpg

 

Remove AC belt: Loosen (a)-12mm and remove (b + c)-12mm
http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w129/scoobysnack_photo/engine_removal/EngineRemoval-030.jpg
Note that alternator belt and PS pump will have been removed already

Removal of Washer Reservoir is not necessary, but leaving it in as reference - GOTJ

Remove the Washer Reservoir: Remove 2-10mm bolts
http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w129/scoobysnack_photo/engine_removal/EngineRemoval-044.jpg

Unplug and pull out tube, get ready to put your finger over the whole if there is water in it!
http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w129/scoobysnack_photo/engine_removal/EngineRemoval-045.jpg

Unbolt AC compressor: This step keeps you from having to recharge your AC. There are 4 14mm bolts holding the AC Compressor on. Remove (a) (b) and (c) to make things a little easier
http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w129/scoobysnack_photo/engine_removal/EngineRemoval-042.jpg

Remove (d) and (e) the compressor will be loose now so move it as far over out of the way as you can.
http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w129/scoobysnack_photo/engine_removal/EngineRemoval-041.jpg

 

OK well we are getting there!

Remove Fuel Lines: The fuel lines are held on by a clip, with a Phillips screwdriver loosen clip and pull the line off. This may take a little twisting and force but it will come off. Have a container ready to catch the gas that comes out.
http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w129/scoobysnack_photo/engine_removal/EngineRemoval-027.jpg

Remove Heater Inlet and Outlet Hoses: Careful when removing these more coolant will come out.
http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w129/scoobysnack_photo/engine_removal/EngineRemoval-035.jpg

Remove Brake Booster Vacuum Hose: Located on intake manifold rear drivers side. The RS will also have a Cruise Control Vacuum Hose located just above/below this one.
http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w129/scoobysnack_photo/engine_removal/EngineRemoval-033.jpg

Unplug Engine Harness Connectors: Unplug the Brown and Gray plugs. Note under the bracket is one of the Transmission bolts that will have to be removed.
http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w129/scoobysnack_photo/engine_removal/EngineRemoval-031.jpg

Unplug Front O2 Sensor: Unplug front O2 Sensor. Note that there is a strap holding it to the Transmission, the bolt that holds this is one of the ones to be removed.
http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w129/scoobysnack_photo/engine_removal/EngineRemoval-032.jpg

Unbolt Pitch Stopper: Unbolt Pitch Stopper from transmission (14mm bolt and nut)

Sorry I don’t have a pic of this

 

OK well we are getting there!


Remove Heater Inlet and Outlet Hoses: Careful when removing these more coolant will come out.

Where are these located at?

 

Ok its time to get this mother out!

Position engine hoist over your bay: I needed to jack my car up a little to allow for the legs to clear the A arms.
http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w129/scoobysnack_photo/engine_removal/EngineRemoval-048.jpg

The lifting locations are as follows:

Alternator bracket
http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w129/scoobysnack_photo/engine_removal/EngineRemoval-046.jpg

Engine Harness Bracket
http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w129/scoobysnack_photo/engine_removal/EngineRemoval-047.jpg

Support the Transmission with a floor jack
http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w129/scoobysnack_photo/engine_removal/EngineRemoval-049.jpg

Remove Transmission Bolts: Now remove the rest of the bolts holding the transmission to the engine. Its hard to get pictures of these so here is a pic of the trans showing the locations of the bolts. (a, b, c, d, e, f) the ones that are not tagged were removed in a previous step. Also note the pins as you will be fighting with these to get the engine and transmission separated.
http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w129/scoobysnack_photo/engine_removal/EngineRemoval-052.jpg

Ok now that you have those out jack up the engine so that the motor mounts clear the Cross member by an inch or two. Raise up the jack so the transmission is being supported. Now grab the engine and give it a good pull away from the trans, if you are lucky it will start to separate, but I doubt you are that lucky :lol:

If it doesn’t come apart try this. Where the engine meets the transmission put a putty knife and give it a whole lot of whacks. This will take some time be patient and keep fighting it. Once it starts separating work your way around as far as you can go. When you get it open enough to get a pry bar in there do so, just be careful not to break anything!
http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w129/scoobysnack_photo/engine_removal/EngineRemoval-050.jpg

Once it comes apart check and make sure nothing is connected and lift her up!!!!
:sunny:

 

Remove Transmission Bolts: Now remove the rest of the bolts holding the transmission to the engine. Its hard to get pictures of these so here is a pic of the trans showing the locations of the bolts. (a, b, c, d, e, f) the ones that are not tagged were removed in a previous step. Also note the pins as you will be fighting with these to get the engine and transmission separated.

Ok now that you have those out jack up the engine so that the motor mounts clear the Cross member by an inch or two. Raise up the jack so the transmission is being supported. Now grab the engine and give it a good pull away from the trans, if you are lucky it will start to separate, but I doubt you are that lucky :lol:

If it doesn’t come apart try this. Where the engine meets the transmission put a putty knife and give it a whole lot of whacks. This will take some time be patient and keep fighting it. Once it starts separating work your way around as far as you can go. When you get it open enough to get a pry bar in there do so, just be careful not to break anything!

Once it comes apart check and make sure nothing is connected and lift her up!!!!
:sunny:

ran into a problem.

have everything, but the motor, removed from under the hood. it's acting like there is another bolt on the drivers side.

the problem i'm having is the separation of motor and bell housing. almost like another bolt is present on the drivers side.

after i get the motor out, i'll snap a photo. I think the 97 OBS might have a few less bolts holding the motor to the transmission.

if anyone can tell me if the number of bolts is different, please chime in!
97 OBS
5 speed manual
chris<pixelmonkey>

 

p.s. I am not responsible if you fuck up your car or yourself. please remember your car may have some differences and I very well may have missed something, please consult with your tech manual.

If you find any mistakes or have any input please let me know. I am going to add the rest of the pics that are missing in the morning, but it is late and I am tired.

 

Great write-up!

 

oh holy shit. lol...I was reading this and I almost got a crazy idea in my head that I could maybe do this. sweet.

 

Wow, seems a lot easier than I thought. Thanks dude!

 

lol...can you make a DIY engine install? It would compliment the removal one very nicely I think.

 

nice! i was waiting for someone to do this. excellent.

how do you manage to operate a camera with dirty hands? one of the reasons i never take pictures while working on my car.

 

Wow, seems a lot easier than I thought. Thanks dude!

Yeah thats why I did this, its really not that bad. The only bitch is seperating the engine from the trans. And I would just like to you to know I did this all by myself except for seperating it, and thats only because my dad needed to get some frustration out :lol: I really should have taken a video of that ha ha

lol...can you make a DIY engine install? It would compliment the removal one very nicely I think.

Hopefully that will be next, it is just the reverse of what I did so I will be able to use most of the pictures again. Just need to add the torque specs.

how do you manage to operate a camera with dirty hands? one of the reasons i never take pictures while working on my car

I put a rubber glove on :lol: Just one of those cheep doctors rubber gloves.

 

Thanx for the awesome writeup man, I'll be using this in a few weeks, to do a 2.5 swap into a 1.8.

 

Sweet

 

This is one of the best DIY's ever. Truly brilliant!

 

Has anyone else followed this? If so is there any extra input or additions to give. Yes, this is excellent.

 

Are there anymore lifting locations, or just those two? I'll be pulling it with the tranny attached looks like it would require more support.

 

Great writeup.

 

Look easier then i thought. Great write up.

 

i followed this step by step and i just pulled the motor last week. absolutely brilliant write up, couldn't have done the pull without this.

One edit though. The cruise control tube that connects to the intake manifold is on the opposite side of the intake manifold on the passenger side. (this is on the RS btw). yes looks like only 2 mounting points.

I dread the day when i have to put the motor back in though

 

im in the process of putting my rs motor im my l great write up!!!

 

hey, i was just curious, what kind of header do you have on your car? isnt it suppposed to be 3 bolts with 2 ports? just curious cause i've never seen it like that before.

 

sweet write up! i was kinda worried about swapping blocks my self but this looks easy. is there an online guide with torque specs and all?

 

i followed this step by step and i just pulled the motor last week. absolutely brilliant write up, couldn't have done the pull without this.

good to hear!

One edit though. The cruise control tube that connects to the intake manifold is on the opposite side of the intake manifold on the passenger side. (this is on the RS btw). yes looks like only 2 mounting points.

Ah yes, your RSers and your cruise control. Ill get that added tonight!

I dread the day when i have to put the motor back in though

Its really not bad, Jurzey and I did it this weekend. I am working on the DIY for putting it back in, just takes a little time.