For anyone interested in the climate control conversion - other than the bits and pieces that I've mentioned needing in this post, plus the entire DIY thread here, I've captured my own experience below. There were a couple of things that didn't just "work" and wasn't a simple matter of joining the green wire to the green wire. Having said that, it wasn't hard, just time consuming. I spent pretty much two full days this weekend doing it, plus another half day stripping the original half cut for wiring and making up a loom.
Note - A/C isn't tested as it's got no gas. It doesn't run when it has no gas due to the low-pressure switch. Everything else is running at this stage. Gassed and it's working!
First off out came the dash:
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Then the reinforcement:
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Then the original heater core/distributor and blower fan/aircon core:
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I left the steering wheel connected to rest it on the seat and negate the requirement of having to remove the whole column or suspend it in some way. It was annoying, but most of what needs to be done can be accessed from the passenger seat:
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Now for the fun stuff. As I had a full half-cut to work with, I was able to trace back most of the wiring. The actuators weren't even a consideration as I was able to remove the loom from plug-to-plug. The wiring that had to be stuffed about with all related back to existing functions: fan control, aircon, ignition, etc. daniel89 has written up a pinout here which I've elaborated on below:
daniel89 wrote:
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Note that pin 21-36 are actually 1-16 respectively on the plug itself.
Code:
Plug 1 10x2 Plug 2 8x2
1. White/Red 21. Purple
2. Red 22. Empty
3. Green/Red 23. Brown/Yellow
4. Blue/Red 24. Green/Yellow
5. Green/Orange 25. Blue/White
6. Green/White 26. Empty
7. Green/Yellow 27. Yellow
8. Yellow/Red 28. Empty
9. White 29. Empty
10. Red/Green 30. Empty
11. Black 31. Empty
12. Orange 32. Blue
13. White/Green 33. Red/Yellow
14. Empty 34. Green/Black
15. Blue/White 35. Green/White
16. Red/Blue 36. Yellow/Black
17. Blue/Yellow
18. Black/Blue
19. Green
20. Light Green/Red
Code:
1. Flap motor "B" 21. Illumination
2. Aircon core temp sensor 22. Empty
3. Sun load sensor 23. A/C pressure switch
4. Constant power +12v (memory) 24. Flap motor "C"
5. Flap motor "A" 25. Flap motor "C" twice
6. Flap motor "B" 26. Empty
7. Flap motor "B" 27. Flap motor "B"
8. Flap motor "C" 28. Empty
9. Flap motor "C" 29. Empty
10. Connected to redundant plug 30. Empty
11. Ground 31. Empty
12. Outside air temp sensor 32. Flap motor "C" twice
13. To cluster - see notes 33. Flap motor "C"
14. Empty 34. VSS (Vehicle Speed Sensor)
15. Not Required 35. Connected to redundant plug
16. Blower speed 36. Common sensor/actuator wire (Yellow/Black)
17. A/C switch to ECU
18. Flap motor "A"
19. Flap motor "A"
20. Flap motor "A"
First off - there's one plug on the donor loom that doesn't connect to anything. This got me, as ripped everything back out because I couldn't understand what I was missing - apparently nothing. It appears to be a diagnostic type plug:
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The next thing I ran into was getting the blower fan running. The AUDM config switches on the blower fan relay when the fan speed slider is moved onto the first speed. The JDM unit doesn't actually switch the blower fan relay on - it expects that it's perpetually engaged, then then climate control unit just determines whether or not the fan is running by a single signal wire. Because of this, I had to manually engage the blower fan relay at ignition. Doing this was simple, just bridge ground (black) across to the blower fan relay control (green/red) on the original fan-speed plug. Obviously the photo below is an example during testing, I just cut and connected the two wires. Problem solved:
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Regarding the above - the ECU has an input for 'blower fan switch'. As far as I can tell, the only reason it exists is to ensure that the fan is running before it will engage the A/C clutch. Obviously with the climate control unit operating, it will always engage the fan before engaging A/C, so it has it's own blower switch output to the ECU. Pin 15 on the larger connector needs to be connected to the correct pin on the ECU, replacing the existing blower fan switch feed. This will vary depending on what version SF you have, and is different for me again as it's an STi ECU. If you engage the blower-fan relay as per above, you do not need to alter the 'blower fan' feed to the ECU, it will automatically be enabled all the time. As I stated above, this is fine, it's only used by the ECU to determine whether or not to run the A/C compressor, which is now determined by the climate control unit.
I pinched my 'ignition feed' from the original A/C switch, you can use this ground, but I bolted in a new ground directly to the chassis at an existing ground point:
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Pin 23 (3) on the small connector (Brown/Yellow) is the A/C pressure switch. You can access this at a plug behind the cluster below the RHS pillar, it's next to the pin that controls the A/C relay (brown wire). I spliced into this:
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Although I had one from the half-cut, my SF already had an external temp sensor as there was a display on the cluster. Accessing this was easy - just had a look at where it hit the cluster and traced back. I have an STi cluster with no temp display so I cut these off - however - pin 13 (from what I can gather) is actually a temp output for the cluster. So you could wire Pin 13 into the orange wire of the below plug, you'd need to also keep the Yellow/Black common connected:
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Functional climate control:
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Some more notes for things to watch out for:
I took my constant 12+ (memory) from the same feed as the stereo. It's Blue/Red.
I did a cut-and-solder job but you can should be able to easily just re-pin the existing fan connector. I couldn't.
In addition to pin 15 being blower-fan feed to ECU, You'll need to connect pin 17 which is A/C switch to the ECU. I spliced mine into the existing Blue/Yellow feed into the ECU.
The Yellow/Black common is just tied together to everything it touches. All existing actuators/sensors with the Black/Yellow just need to be merged into the same circuit - this seems to have worked well.
Pin 34 needs to be spliced into the VSS (vehicle speed sensor). Dunno why, but that's what it traced back to when I removed it.
