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Interesting Cory,

What year is that cluster from?

What make and series is the EEPROM?


I personally haven't looked at anything beyond the GC clusters that I have.
That is from a 2005 STi and the EEPROM is a 93C56. I am trying to find a copy of the latest version of the Tachosoft Mileage Calculator and have sent a message to them asking if they support the STis from 2004-2007.
 
Here's a question. If the chips retain the odometer reading when you desolder them, why not just remove the old one from your original odometer, and swap it into your new one? That is unless they are different in fitting. With all the work being put into this, cant you just solder your original chip into the connectors, or solder short wires to the chip pins and then the wires to the board in their proper locations instead of having to reprogram the chip?
 
Here's a question. If the chips retain the odometer reading when you desolder them, why not just remove the old one from your original odometer, and swap it into your new one? That is unless they are different in fitting. With all the work being put into this, cant you just solder your original chip into the connectors, or solder short wires to the chip pins and then the wires to the board in their proper locations instead of having to reprogram the chip?
First off, the STi EEPROMs (93C56) are surface mount SOIC-8. Secondly, I am offering mileage calibration as a part of a cluster-swap program where we convert cluster lighting, recalibrate to the customer's current mileage, and ship the converted/calibrated cluster to the customer. When the client receives the cluster, they swap it out and send us their old cluster back.

What you suggest works for personal use as long as the EEPROM is the same series and the same physical technology.
 
Sorry. Thought this was a DIY. Your type of services are useful for others that dont understand how to do these kind of things, or who want something nicer done more reliably without taking the risk of damaging their own parts. Kudos to you sir, and there's alot of things that can be done dash wise, so happy to see another service to help us out.
 
I contacted a shop that performs mileage calibrations and they were very helpful. They told me how they arrive at the correct mileage but stopped short of a complete solution because of a "rolling code" they have compiled over the years.

Here is what they told me:

1. Divide the target mileage by 256 = answer 1
2. Convert answer 1 to hex
3. Depress the NOT button to get the inverted checksum value
4. Put answer 1 in as hex and convert to decimal X256 -target mileage

Step 4 above is kind of sketchy but I will contact them again for clarification.

I also "obtained" a copy of Tachosoft Mileage Calculator V12 and played with the settings until it yielded the correct mileage value. This is much easier than manual methods!

Oh, and for the STi cluster, the mileage is in lines E0 and F0.

That is all for now but I will keep plugging away as time allows.
 
Discussion starter · #26 ·
Here's a question. If the chips retain the odometer reading when you desolder them, why not just remove the old one from your original odometer, and swap it into your new one? That is unless they are different in fitting. With all the work being put into this, cant you just solder your original chip into the connectors, or solder short wires to the chip pins and then the wires to the board in their proper locations instead of having to reprogram the chip?
I started investigating this 'mod' as I was switching from a MPH cluster to a KM/H JDM cluster in my USDM Impreza. I live in Canada.

But otherwise you are correct, one could simply swap the chips if replacing their dashboard cluster.
 
What. . . the . . . efff

Sounds like you should become a vendor and have people ship you their clusters. Theres no way in balls I would be able to that.
 
I've been part of a related thread on NASIOC for a while, and just realized I've never posted in this thread before! First I'd like to thank everyone for their contributions thus far, especially the OP. The mileage changing info helped me a LOT during my first cluster swap back in 2009.

Anyway, I think I confirmed a theory tonight and figured I'd share:

When looking at a hex dump, the line "000080)" affects the outside temp display.

If the line reads "99 55 99 55 99 55 FF FF" it will display in Fahrenheit.
If the line reads "33 55 33 55 33 55 FF FF" it will display in Celcius.


I had noticed this before on my JDM DCCD cluster, but the temps were wrong....so I thought it affected more than just Celcius/Fahrenheit.

Well I just got my Prodrive WR1 DCCD cluster in today, and the temps are accurate in both *C and *F.

And for those who are curious, this is my 4th cluster.
I first had the stock bugeye cluster.
Then a regular JDM v7 cluster (yellow needles, 9k tach)
Then I grabbed some other JDM v7 cluster, but it had red needles, 10k tach, DCCD, and 260KMH speedo. (which is now for sale!)
Finally I'm onto the Prodrive WR1 v8 cluster with DCCD and 160MPH speedo. :D

If anyone needs help, pics, or hex dumps, feel free to PM me.
Image
 
IA performance sells a resistor that you splice into your speed sensor that will convert km/h to mph. Its what I run.
Do you happen to have a write up on that? I bought a resistor but ended up having a bad VSS and it never worked right with it connected or not so I am wondering where I might have gone wrong if I did go wrong at all.
 
Do you happen to have a write up on that? I bought a resistor but ended up having a bad VSS and it never worked right with it connected or not so I am wondering where I might have gone wrong if I did go wrong at all.
IIRC, there's one on scoobymods. It shows how to wire it up to the cluster.

I bought a "speedo converter" from ebay (cheaper than iaperformance), and when wired up to the cluster like the scoobymods writeup shows, it didn't work.... but when I spliced it into the VSS harness, it worked like a charm. There were directions that came with the converter, and it was rather simple, like splicing 4 wires.
 
i have an 07 25i that the motor blew at 104k it began to burn oil, oil light never came on, my crank berrings went on strike and held a meeting in the oil pan.. i picked up a newish but used 07 motor with 12k on it, i would love to reset it to 18k now that i have miles on it, can i send it to some one to do this? i also have a 2001 25rs rally car, with 2001 rs cluster, getting a totally rebuilt motor, would like to set that to ZERO miles. pm me if you can help me by doing the reset, i can turn a wrench, but electrical scares me.
 
Just when you think this thread is dead... some random from New Zealand decides to post. :D

Kyle/HeK, your instructions were AWESOME. I have an HX-20s ('98 JDM Non-turbo 2.0L AWD sedan... thing. We get the weird ones down here in New Zealand!) with a JDM Version 4 STi cluster. Unfortunately, the cluster had 168000 KM on it, and my car's only done 109000... yeah, small problem. A mate (who's a genius with a soldering iron) and I used your programmer and PonyProg with a little trial and error for the differences between the V5/6 and the V4, and everything worked a charm. :)

A few things about the V4, in case anyone else is interested:
1. The odometer chip is actually a 93C46, unlike the newer clusters.
2. The mileage is encoded COMPLETELY DIFFERENTLY. Unfortunately we can't work out the algorithm Subaru have used - we ended up having to use TachoSoft Mileage Calculator (which is great software by the way - definitely recommend buying it). What I can tell you is this:

a) The mileage is stored in lines 0040 and 0050, and is 20 bytes long. For example, the mileage from a spare V4 cluster a friend had lying around (65 781 KM) was shown as:
E3 18 A9 4A A5 29 BD EF BD EF BD EF BD EF BD EF
BD EF BD EF 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00


b) You need to pick "Subaru Forester - 93c46 - until 2000 year" in TachoSoft, at least for JDM clusters (all we get here). The one that says "Subaru Impreza - 93c46 - 1995-2000 years" DOES NOT work for the JDM clusters. I have no idea why. :(

c) The value that's outputted has the bytes encoded in the wrong 'order' (endianness). For the same mileage as the example above, I got:
18 E3 4A A9 29 A5 EF BD EF BD EF BD EF BD EF BD
EF BD EF BD

As you can see, you need to swap each byte.

d) The value that the cluster displays when you're done isn't EXACTLY what you selected, it seems. Mine was something like 30km out - but no big deal.

As for everything else, it's exactly the same.

Anyway, this guide saved me a lot of hassle and money so yeah, just wanted to say thanks. :D
 
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