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Sweet that should give me plenty to doodle up an idea and see if you like it.
 
Discussion starter · #263 · (Edited)
for some reason i never saw it until yesterday but theres an autox saturday, i can only prob afford one track day this year so at least its another chance to drive it hard - although autox is going to be a serious fvcking workout in this thing :lol: also i need to practice launches, though ill prob just baby it off the line cause thats how i roll haha

anyway so trying to get stuff prepped... changed oil (got very dirty all of a sudden which is somewhat eyebrow raising), chased down small coolant and trans leaks (hopefully), hacked up the front strut mounts to make room for more camber (lowered suspension geometry seems to have the rears very negative so needed to balance it out), and also finally put on the steering wheel (will get better pics when its got the horn button and all). im actually really excited about that. i was enjoying the old school oem one but def needed something thicker and smaller radius to complete the experience. plus i love that its authentic retro momo. ill get better pics once ive got it all situated and the horn button is on

going to weld in a little piece to fill in where the old/third strut top bolt was to make it a bit more solid on that end
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Discussion starter · #264 ·
autox went fantastic. car was set up beautifully, felt very well balanced. a little understeery, but mostly from driving/course mistakes and dropping front tire pressures actually still helped a lot. undecided at whether i still see sway bars as necessary as i thought i did. pesky rear toe in was likely keeping the rear a bit more planted than i wanted so will probably get after that first and go from there.

engine did great. i accidentally started off the first pass colder than i had intended and was burning a good bit of oil, but had it at right temp for second and third and performed flawlessly without the james bond some screen. the carb setup is pretty dead below 3000 which i thought would be a problem but was not at all. really impressed at how well the car did for its first time out all around.

friend showed up with a camera after the first lap and got some great burst shots through the big corner before the first big straight. stance/alignment/balance seems to look as good as it felt
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same corner lap 3
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also was super excited to find this bad boy in the pits and get to talk to the owner/builder. a factory five 33 hot rod was to be my build if i could have afforded it and i have a huge soft spot for daytona coupes. made a great day greater.
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Discussion starter · #265 ·
autox vidyyooooo....

first run, got lost and camera is shakey as hell ...but i added a vintage filter so it matches the crappiness? hahah either way was the only footage i got from inside so glad to have it.

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second run, angle not too good, but has some fun slippy action. and i somehow managed to not fvck up the course

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third run, best angle, best time - still had more in her but oh well
 
pretty neat seeing the body line similarities between the daytona clone and the Z car. didn't really think their was that much resemblance.
 
yeah..like in this picture. the rake of the rear window, the shape of the rear quarters, the little buldge in the front fenders, the long sloping hood...etc.

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Discussion starter · #271 · (Edited)
totally. especially, for me, the glorious muslce-car curve of the rear haunches and how they stand out yet mold into the fastback. its probably subliminally why i like them both so much. that and just the whole profile/roofline; though i honestly never liked the long hood 'thing' in and of itself (besides that it suggested the engine was as far back behind the front uprights as possible so i dug it for logical/engineering/balance reasons)

let me see if i have any other good photos from the two next to eachother... also i feel like theres a more specific name for that shape than coupe or fastback?
 
Discussion starter · #276 · (Edited)
i like that! looks like theyre "clamping collars"? all the ones im finding are either spensive weld-replacment ($20+ ea) for cage building or too small ID (need 1.5")

like one of these would be perfect, even plastic/rubber
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edit: ooh found em here iin right size for $7 ea: https://www.surpluscenter.com/Brand...om/Brands/Concentric-International/1-5-DOUBLE-SPLIT-SHAFT-COLLAR-1-2768-150.axd

i may end up wtih go pro mount thingies if i can find em cheap enough, i need 8 (or 9 to actually mount a go pro to one haha)

hose clamps are sort of the go-to id like to avoid... id probably do cage padding material with zip ties instead
10 Hose Clamps T Bolt 38 44 mm 1 5" 1 75" 1 5" Stainless Turbo Intake | eBay

these seem to be the other option so far, basically like a v-band clamp. $7-8
Parker Single Pin Hinge Clamp, 1 and 1-1/2 In. 13MHM-1.0/1.5-304 | Zoro.com
 
The single pin hinge clamps are pretty cool! For real cheap and virtually invisible a roll of high strength double sided tape would probably do the trick. Not sure if that would work though
 
Discussion starter · #278 · (Edited)
anybody have any suggestions/resources for how to DIY a shift light indicator?
Im ok with the circuitry and electronics (im thinking its basically a high pass filter --> diode --> light?), but mostly just would like to figure out how they work when fitted to distributor ignitions - ie what that signal looks like coming off the coil

small diameter fat ring steering wheel is blocking my tach view :lol:


The single pin hinge clamps are pretty cool! For real cheap and virtually invisible a roll of high strength double sided tape would probably do the trick. Not sure if that would work though
yeah at this point i may just tie up an old bike inner tube around each one haha
 
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