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Discussion Starter #1
What do I do if the holes don't line up?? It looks like the differential carrier is shifted to the right side of the car, so I cant advance the bolts past the first "step". Is it safe to push the carrier over?
 

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98 2.5RS Rally Blue Pearl
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"I had the diff lock bolts in last month for an alignment. I noticed when I had achieved the specified 66 ft/lbs of torque the bolts were not seated but were sticking out ~.25". Was that normal??"


I asked the above question in another thread last month with no reply. Can anyone tell me for sure if the lock bolts are suppose to fully seat when torqued to the specified 66ft/lbs.
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
I torqued mine down to the required spec as well, and they also stick out. I sent the guy at ravensblade an email about it, and he said that he's been asked about that before, and that several people have them sticking out as well. I guess it's not really a problem...


I'm thinking about taking them out though, I guess all those warnings about chassis wear are getting to me. Plus I didn't really notice any difference with them in.
 

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98 2.5RS Rally Blue Pearl
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Thanks:)

Since I use my RS for street use only, I did and intend to only install the locking bolts for alignments.

Personally I wouldn't drive around with them installed and as stated you can't really feel any difference during the daily commute.
 

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General pain in the ass
98 Superu Impreza 2.5 rs...
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honestly people, i think that mod is bull shit, and the fact that you pay around 10$ a bolt is retarded.

Why these holes are there? cause fwd impreza's rear cross member was not as big, and only used 1st and 2nd sets of holes. AWD imprezas cross member was wider, and used 1st and 3rd sets of holes. All frames are identical to save production costs, thus leaving FWD holes even on AWD imrpezas.

Benefit? you can slap rear end off AWD impreza on any FWD impreza, that's all.

Any structural integrity or performance benefits are all in your head!
 

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General pain in the ass
98 Superu Impreza 2.5 rs...
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if you REALLY REALLY want to do this mod, take your car to NAPA or Eagle, along with a 16 mm (or whatever size is needed) wrench. Take one of the bolts out, and have them sell you 2 same thread bolts, but about 2 cm longer. They'll run you about $1.50 each. Take out the rubber filler, and put the bolts in.

Vola, you got your self a Subframe Locking Upgrade :rolleyes: :rolleyes:
 

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Discussion Starter #8
RotarFreak said:
honestly people, i think that mod is bull shit, and the fact that you pay around 10$ a bolt is retarded.
Dude, I paid $75 for a sheet of aluminum to cover the top of my radiator. That was fuckn retarded. The only reason I bought those bolts was because I had a big fat tax return, and I was already buying my suspension from PDM, and I saw the bolts as I was writing down my order and thought what the hell, why not. It was like buying a pack of gum as your checking out at the store.

RotarFreak said:
Any structural integrity or performance benefits are all in your head!
Allow me to quote myself:
Lo0mis said:
Plus I didn't really notice any difference with them in.
And your right, This "mod" is bullshit, I wish someone had told me before I bought it.
 

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98 2.5RS Rally Blue Pearl
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To each his own I suppose, that what great about having the freedom to choose.

I personally think it's $22 well spent ($25 - [$1.50 x 2]) as compared to the NAPA route. IMO the fact that the bolts are stepped permits for a more percise centering of our "floating" rear subframe for an alignment alignment.

A few tidbits that possibly equate to something is the fact that probably everyone who has installed the lock bolts has to "shift" the rear subframe 3-6cm to get the bolt hole to line up. Also, after installing the bolt if you take the car back to the alignment shop for a "free warranty re-check";) the tech gets all bent because he thinks you hit something hard and screwed up the alignment he just did a few weeks before.

The NAPA route is better than having nothing at all, but stepped bolts are better than the NAPA bolts.

***Whiteline's recommends locking the subframe for track use only where high speed heavy transitions can amplify the movement of rubber bushings hence the original purpose of polyurathane bushing and other pieces to solidify the chassis, on a daily driver this is not necessary.
 

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Call me dumb, but I've seen this mod advertised as improving the shifting characteristics of our cantakerous gearboxes....any truth to this? Or have I been misinformed once again lol
 

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98 Superu Impreza 2.5 rs...
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...the improved lightweight subframe bolts will reduce subframe movement, improving the shifting characteristics of our cantakerous gearboxes and improve power transfer giving you an additional 2-3 HP to the wheels. It also reduces overall car weight givng you almost .0000001 sec improvement in 1/4 mile runs.
 
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