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2000 Imp 5 door Sport
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6,269 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
ok i have read up on clutch replacment and there seems to be 3 ways of doing it

pull the motor
pull the trans
slide motor forward

its my freind 97 legacy that needs a new clutch and we have saterday and sunday moring to do it so i figure we can get it done. i have read lot of DIY and doesn't seem hard we just can't decide on which way would be beter. he also needs to replace one of the joints on the shifter linkage which is why we were leaning towords droping the trans.

anybady whos done there own clutch please let me here you input.

how heavy is the trans?
and how heavy is the motor?
just an rough guess is fine

thanks everybady
 

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04 STi silver
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624 Posts
leave the trans in pull the motor. if you want to pull the trans and you have no lift that means a lot of time on your back witch is no fun at all. i think the engine is 300-400lbs. i would just take it to a shop to have the linkage replaced. with that car i would all so reseal the plate that is behind the flywheel.
 

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Moderator
2001 A.W. L
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13,249 Posts
done it 3 times so far by pulling the motor. I would think it would be pretty hard without a hoist though. I would definatly rent one for the weekend if you are going that route

-Josh
 

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5,142 Posts
Jacked the car up and pulled the Tranny, wasn't difficult. With the help of a jack I lifter the tranny onto the car myself from the ground. And I am by no means a weightlifter. Jacked up the trans from the tail and I lifted from the bell housing like I was benching it lengthwise. Went on smooth as butter.
 

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MY99 GF4 EJ227 JDM 6spd
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5,262 Posts
I'm working on a '05 STi right now (will be working on it after this post) and I moved the tranny back. The 6spd is HEAVY compared to the 5spd. Good thing about the STi is that yo ucan disconnect it in the MIDDLE like the old skool Impreza AWDs. The NEWER driveshafts are 1 piece from tranny to rear diff.

I don't like to mess w/ fluids so I just pull the tranny back.
I did my tranny in 7 hours by myself. This STi is the 14th one I've done for tranny jobs. Another Impreza L wagon in line and maybe a STi swap one too. *sigh* lolz
 

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2000 Imp 5 door Sport
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6,269 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
ya we going to replace the leaky rear main they all had problems with and the linkage that needs fixing is just a joint bushings have gone bad its not hard to do its just on top the trans

if we pull the motor how do we let presure off the AC lines? and is that hard to recharge?
 

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125 Posts
As far as replacing the clutch, you should definitely pull the engine! I watched my friend try to do it by pulling his tranny and it was the biggest pain... and he was using a lift. Pulling the engine takes half the time. An engine hoist is quite useful with that procedure, especially with the two lifting hooks, one near the alternator and one on the back near the seam of the block and bell housing. I've done a few in my lifetime :) Just don't put a hole in your radiator.

Oh and just take your air conditioner off and put it to the side with the hoses still connected

- Simon
 

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99' Subaru Impreza 2.5 Rs
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3,712 Posts
ok, since ive done BOTH in the last two weeks, i will comment.

this is on 05 sti drivetrain in GC8. did it the engine out way first, then i dropped the gearbox a week later, two seperate occasions.

IMO, working on your back sucks. But its jsut too damn easy to refute in this case.

Appx to remove gearbox: 1.5 hours
Appx time to remove engine: 2.5
Appx to reinstall gearbox: 1.5 hours
Appx time to reinstall engine: 3.5

ill break it down:

dropping the gearbox has less work in MY case, straight up.

intercooler,starter, axles,clutch slave,pitch stopper,driveshaft, exhasut,shift linkage dropped as one unti from car (not dissassembled), the other 6 engine bolts, pop the throw out bearing apart, two elec. connectors,drop the gearbox mount and you are there.

to remove the engine: most of my time is in extras, liek fluids and exhaust/radiator frustration.

intercooler,fuel lines,axles (to get to p/s lines) p/s lines,raditor remove (after like 20 mins of slowly draining)all electronics, 02 sensor, headers to up pipe,starter, pitch stopper, engine bolts, motor mounts, jacking up the gearbox as well to you dont slam it (which requires disconneting the GB mount),egt gauge, oiltemp gauge, boost gauge, brake booster line, heater core lines (more draining, esp if you disconnent this first), AC lines (if you have it, i dont).

then you got to fill all that back up, AND clean up the mess you made? f that. that is a lot of time.

this is JUST my opinion. i knwo for a fact its easier to drop the geabox in my whip. i accidently tested the theroy out. GL.

oh and if you decide to drop the 5spd, only one thing: remember to brace the engine from rotating forward when you put them back together. you can use the subaru locating tool, or a second jack underneath the oil pump body, or jsut a strategically placed block of wood. its a nightmare if you dont stop the engine for m rocking back togehter.

GL
 

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681 Posts
I do something a bit different for doing the clutch, I pull the back part of the transmission crossmember, pull the drive-shaft, and slide the transmission back onto the the front portion of the crossmember. I don't need to use the jack to do this and the crossmember supports the transmission. I also leave the axles on. This is the best for my situation as I don't have the room to slide a hoist back after pulling the motor. There is just enough room to get the clutch in and out, and after 5 or 6 clutches it takes me about 2-3 hours start to finish.
 

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Baby❤Daddy
98L Wagon
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27,848 Posts
the way i did it is incredibly easy. i do have a hoist though....

pull the radiator and fans out. do everything you typically would to pull the engine. leave the a/c all connected. connect the hoist and separate the two. leave the engine on the hoist and change the clutch. reverse to put it back together. took me three hours total to do a clutch/flywheel change.
 

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2000 Imp 5 door Sport
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6,269 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
^ i can one up your engine hoist we will have a bobcat. so the hoisting is no issue
and i know to be carfull we will have ratchets to take slack up with then use the bobcat to lift


so how is that diff from pulling the motor?
just take the AC pump off and leave that in the car and pull the motor out right?
 

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Baby❤Daddy
98L Wagon
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27,848 Posts
you basically are pulling the engine, just not all the way. i left everything attached to the engine, short of the stuff i needed to remove to get the engine 5-6 inches off the tranny. only thing i had to replace was the coolant...
 

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2000 Imp 5 door Sport
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6,269 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
^Got it i think we might try that first then pull it altheway if we have to


the seal that needs to be replaced is the "oil seperator cover seal" anybady ever replaced it? its soposed to be just a bolt or two under the fly wheel
 

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Baby❤Daddy
98L Wagon
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27,848 Posts
there's like 4 little screws that hold that thing on. make sure you get a new cover from the dealer though...they've replaced the plastic cover with an aluminum one..as a retrofit. and then use the red RTV shit in a tube to seal it all up. also, might as well do a rear main seal change too, as it's like 8 bucks...
 

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1990 legacy wagon
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679 Posts
The oil separator plate may or may not be leaking. I have actually yet to see one leak myself, metal or plastic plate, out of about 7 engine.

However, it you are replacing it, I suggest pulling the engine because...... The odds of you stripping one of those philip head BITCH screws is about 75% if you try to do it from under the car. And with the engine out? about 20% chance one is stuck and you strip it and have to drill it out and you an easy out to get it out. The damn screws are a pain.

Personally, I pull the motor to do my clutches, but I don't have a lift, and I hate being on my back. I have done about 5 clutches, but many many engine pulls.
 
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