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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
i was wondering

does anyone know how much heavier a full 04/05/06/07 STi driveline swap on a GC8 VS. a to bone stock GC8?

STI driveline swap as in (engine, transmission, rear end, brembo brakes, cross member and etc..)

just gauging out my options to building a street driven/clean look 9 second drag car

id like to have some luxury ( sunroof, power doors, and etc..) but with all that in the car comes extra weight
so L would prolly be the best choice if i want the lightest model possible for performance stand point, but doesn't have all the basic luxury to car, so its a toss up, aslong i can get the car down to 2500lb with the swap and some basic luxury to the car(power doors), then im golden lol

another quick question

how much heavier is stock 1998-2001 GC8 with AUTOMATIC Trans vs 1998-2001 GC8 with MANUAL Trans

the only difference of 2 the cars is the transmission
 

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2000 RS, Ej205 & STi Trans
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The STi conversion weighs like 125 lbs more than factory, less of a difference if you are starting with an auto. The brakes and the tranny and the turbo and extra exhaust piping comprise the difference.

You can pretty much rest assured you will not have an STi swapped GC that weighs 2500lbs unless you have it stripped down to the bare bones. I've done pretty much all the possible weight reduction on my car short of stripping the interior and lexan windows and I'm around 2650lbs with a WRX swap.

Most people with an STi swapped RS with no weight reduction are in around 2900-3000lbs which is still 300 lbs lighter than the GD. With lighter bumper beams, carbon fiber hood/trunk, pulling the AC and some nice lightweight wheels you can lose about 150lbs but that is just about it before you have to start ripping into the interior. If the interior minus the dash goes you can lose another maybe 150.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
The STi conversion weighs like 125 lbs more than factory, less of a difference if you are starting with an auto. The brakes and the tranny and the turbo and extra exhaust piping comprise the difference.

You can pretty much rest assured you will not have an STi swapped GC that weighs 2500lbs unless you have it stripped down to the bare bones. I've done pretty much all the possible weight reduction on my car short of stripping the interior and lexan windows and I'm around 2650lbs with a WRX swap.

Most people with an STi swapped RS with no weight reduction are in around 2900-3000lbs which is still 300 lbs lighter than the GD. With lighter bumper beams, carbon fiber hood/trunk, pulling the AC and some nice lightweight wheels you can lose about 150lbs but that is just about it before you have to start ripping into the interior. If the interior minus the dash goes you can lose another maybe 150.
does your car have a sunroof?

thanks for the quick answer man, def help me clear my mind up a bit haha

this project is def going to be stripped to much as but stealthy way, i will def be doing major interior stripping, i plan on getting rid of every single sound deadening, HVAC system ( AC/heater unit), all the air bags, rear seats, and few other random stuff, the only thing i will leave intact are 2 front seats, a stripped down GD STi dash, a trimmed carpet, center console(shifter boot), door cards, roof lining, keeping all the power doors/locks,side mirrors and the sunroof

i also planning on stripping off all the safety beams front/rear, run no U-brace, taking off the wiper motors/blades(lol), all the ABS unit, all the AC lines, run very light weight battery, washer fluid delete, and lots more, this just some stuff off top of my head,

i weighted both my 1998 RS coupe and 1995 L on this local but accurate truck scale with 1/4gal of gas my 1998 RS coupe weighted 2770lb with everything stock, and automatic transmission

and 1995 L coupe with 1/4gal of gas 2550, manual transmission with stock everything

like what i said from my first post, its no brainer that the 1995 L is def the best choice from the performance stand point, but it really lacks of basic luxury, to make it a decent street driven car

thanks again bro, i appreciate the reply, great forum btw
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
9 second STi street car and drag car? uhh ya good luck
its not easy, but its def doable haha, but i wont be alone in this project, i have a good shop co-building this project, access two different great fabricator guys, anything custom aslong its made of metal can be fabbed up lol, and also i think its safe to say i have enough experience on 1320,

all you need is some
- very good driving,
- 550whp or more on very low reading dyno with very good powerband,
- with a chassis curb weight 2800lb or less with the driver,
- great tuner


theres few of them actually

9.85 @ 144mph
RSTi in iceland goes [email protected],7mph - NASIOC
heres some pics of it
NASIOC - View Single Post - RSTi in iceland goes [email protected],7mph

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heres one that could potentially run 9s with slightly better driving, better tires, maybe a lil more power, or some weight reduction

lacostamotors street GC8 runs 10:[email protected] mph - NASIOC

this is just off quick research



yup that car is sick,

i been paying attention to that built, and im also tempted to do some kinda front facing turbo set up,
 

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2000 Ver 6 STI - 1996 Gravel Express
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There are other ways to lose weight, like moving to aluminium parts for the suspension.

I also don't know what you consider a "decent" street driven car. I have no power locks, no power windows, no ABS, no sunroof, no cruise control, no trunk release, etc and I'm perfectly fine with it. I have AC and heat, but the AC is pretty much useless, as it takes too much power to use.

All the stuff you're removing is pretty much what I would consider as being needed to be a "decent" street driven car. I mean, no wipers? No A/C lines (required for the heating system)?

Anyways, I'm part of the group that thinks you won't be able to build a 9 second car that will be street driveable.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
everyone have different opinion on street driven cars, i for one love my sunroof on my 1998 rs, wish i had that on my STi, i guess im more savage then since i dont care much about ac/heater no wiper and such haha, vs to no power locks, no power windows, no abs, etc. haha

yea its okay, i love being doubted and i respect it, gives me more motivation
and it becomes extra sweetness added when i achieve my goal lol

not to sound like im bragging, but i think i have achieved some great things for the subaru community in the pass, and id like to rekindle that :):projectsti.com::)

thanks for the free bump tho
 

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I kill threads!
2000 Ver 6 STI - 1996 Gravel Express
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I don't care all about A/C, but I need heat. Trying to drive while shaking from the cold is not my cup of tea. Nor is not being able to see outside windows from condensation. I guess if you live in a place that's always warm, it's not a big deal.

Probably the only luxuries that I've added to my car is a better stereo and I plan on adding the wiring for a trunk release. Power locks and power windows would be nice, but really don't deem the amount of work to put them in, worth the value they'll give to me.

But ya, everyone has different views on street driven cars. Some will be perfectly fine with a fullblown race car, while others can't stand a stiffer suspension than a Cadillac.

Me, can't do a fullblown race car. Mainly cause the performance ends up being pretty lacking on regular roads, while it's a demon on the track. Reminds me of when the first Lancer Evo FQ-400 came out.
 

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2000 Impreza 2.5RS BRP
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Wait, you want to remove the wiper motors and blades, yet still talk about making a decent street driven car? It seems like an L would be a better option for you, as almost everything but the sunroof is offered as an option. The sunroof is around 50 lbs. and unless you're like me and the sunroof is a necessity, should be one of the first things to go. If you get an L and leave the A/C, you'll still be weighing in lighter than the RS.

Also: Check out lowride's build for an idea of how to save weight on an RS.
 
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