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95 Impreza L AWD
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just put a turbo on my 1.8 and I have a few questions. I was wondering where would be a good place to get tees for the water lines to the turbo? I've been shopping around and all I have found were some plastic hose tees and brass tees that weren't meant for hoses. I have no problem using the plastic tees, but I don't want them to melt! My other question is on the boost gauge. I have an Autometer boost gauge and it shows boost, but no vaccuum. I was wondering if anyone could tell me how all the hoses should be hooked up? Thanks! :D
 

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For the fittings, try and buy some brass ones. I bought mine from Ace Hardware, two brass T fittings tee'd into my heater-core lines.

For the boost gauge, I use GReddy unit, but I'm sure there the same. Make sure you have the vaccum line tee'd to another vaccum line AFTER the throttle body. Basically anything that see's boost. Why it isn't reading vaccum, I don't know, that kind of weird, could be a malfunction.

SOO, tell us more about the setup, which turbo your using and what not? Did you do it yourself?

Oh, and do NOT run your car without the water lines hooked up, that would be very bad.

Graham
 

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95 Impreza L AWD
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for the info!:) I'll have to go to Ace again and look harder. I'll have to check to see where all of my vaccuum lines are tapped from. Where does yours get its source on the engine?
I am using a T25 turbo with a fender-mount intercooler. I think the turbo was from an Eclipse, but I'm not sure on the origins of the intercooler. I bought the kit from a friend of mine, bensonwrx; he went with a Ludespeed so he never put it on. He got it from somebody on the i-club. It has an old HKS bov that sounds close to the Blitz Super Sound, and the wastegate on the turbo was supposed to be set at 5psi but I'm getting as high as 9!! I am running 4 Autometer gauges: boost, air/fuel ratio(which irritates me very much!), oil pressure, and EGT, along with a Field SFC Hyper-R. I also have an RS fuel pump.
The kit had to have the uppipe made, so I didn't install everything myself. I installed the gauges and SFC, intercooler, fuel pump, and Stromung rear section. I took it to a "performance" shop that doesn't perform installations very fast and got the uppipe made, along with installing the oil pan I got from a parted out Ludespeed kit and downpipe. Basically, they finished up the installation. Plus, it only took them 9 days! I still have to get a midpipe made, plus I have to run the water lines to the turbo. I did run the car without them, but it was only after seeking advice from the proclaimed "turbo king" at the shop. He said I would be fine without the water lines on my car because of the low redline and low boost pressure. I did not install them yet since I just got the car back yesterday afternoon, but they will most likely be installed this afternoon. I did run the car, but let it cool quite a while before shutting it off.
 

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13 Years of RS
2005 Toyota Corolla :(
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I'm going to be going with Autometer Phantom gauges in my car, and I plan on using the same ones you have. But you say the AF ratio one is irritating you vey much; why is that? I've been thinking of getting the Jumptronix AF gauge, which actually just shows you the actual voltage reading the O2 sensor is seeing, but the Phantom gauge would look a little bit better. But if it sucks, I'd rather find out before than after I get it, you know what I mean?
 

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95 Impreza L AWD
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I actually have the Autometer Sport Comp series. I hate the gauge because it constantly jumps around under normal driving, and it doesn't seem to really give a reading under full throttle; only about 3/4 throttle or so. I consider it to be essentially worthless! I have adjusted to it jumping around all the time, but 9 times out of 10 it goes blank when I'm under full throttle, when I thought I was supposed to be getting a reading from it under full throttle! I would not get one if I were you; get the Jumptronix or something else! Of course, I got this gauge used in my turbo kit, so I don't know if someone dropped it or anything. I haven't really ridden in anyone's car that has an A/F gauge, so I don't have much basis for comparison.
 

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95 Impreza L AWD
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I forgot to mention-I found some tees that will work for the water lines for the turbo. Now all I need is to see if anyone can tell me what all the vaccuum lines for the boost gauge should be connected to!:)
 

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13 Years of RS
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Cool, maybe I will start looking for something else. The Jumptronix unit should fit pretty well on the steering collum without blocking anything.
 

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Alright, just get those water lines hooked up, and don't listen to that "turbo king" about running your car with them.

For the boost gauge: I have mine hooked up to a vaccum line outlet right on the intake manifold, passenget side. I'm not sure if you have the same outlet or not (mine's a 2.5) but anything AFTER the throttle body should work fine for a boost gauge. You will see positive pressure after the throttle body, therefore you need the vaccum line FROM the Autometer boost gauge sending unit t'd into a line off the intake manifold.

Hope this helps.

Graham
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I got the water lines hooked up! I found some tees in the size I needed at one of the local parts stores, but now I only have one bolt instead of two securing the wastegate. It's very sturdy, though, so I think it will be okay. Removing one bolt was the only way I could get the water line in there, and once it's in, there's not a chance in hell of getting the bolt back in!
I checked on my vaccuum lines, and the reason I'm not seeing any vaccuum is because the line from the boost gauge isn't hooked up to a source for any! The line from the gauge is teed, with one side going to the wastegate and the other to the nipple on the turbo. The bov is teed into the vaccuum source you're talking about. Should it all be teed together? There is a nipple on the wastegate, one on the turbo, one on the bov, and the one on the manifold. How should I do it?
As far as the proclaimed "turbo king", I didn't really think he was that bright. He really wasn't knowledgable about Subarus. There was actually somebody else who was saying something about the rotary engine in my car! I half-heard everything but that part, and asked him to repeat it, and he was just like blah blah blah this car(instead of rotary engine)! DUH!!! :stupid:

HondaH8er-I would get something else! I have two gauges on my column, and although my cluster is probably different from yours, you should still be able to see the important parts. The only things I can't see are my odometer and trip meter, and the centers of the needles for the tach and speedo. Not a bad tradeoff for being able to monitor EGT and oil psi!:D
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Well, I went out and teed the lines on the boost gauge side to the lines on the intake manifold side and it idled much better! However, it sounds like there is a vaccuum leak at one of the tees, and the BOV now sounds like a tire lightly skidding rather than a soda can opening! My boost gauge is showing vaccuum now, though! I like the way it idles now, but I don't quite like the soft sound of the BOV. I will replace that tee and see if that changes anything, but I'm guessing it won't.
 

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Glad you got it figured out! :)



Now, the BOV might just sound that way. Some will change when you get the proper vaccum lines hooked up to them. Just recently I had the second nipple on my BOV connected and it changed the sound of it at RPM on boost let off. Sorry, but how many vaccum lines do you have going to your BOV, and how many are connected?

Not sure I like the sound of that single bolt wastegate setup, is this unit internal or external? If you are using Ludespeed up and down pipes, I take it its external. You may want to reconsider how you set that up, and if you could provide some pics it would help me understand it much better.

Get everything dialed in and see how she performs on boost!


Graham
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
The way I have it right now is the line from the manifold is teed into the BOV line, then the BOV line is teed to the boost gauge line, and on the other side of that tee there is a tee to the wastegate and the turbo. Does that make any sense?:) I don't have pics yet, but I'll try to get some soon.
The wastegate is an integrated external unit. The wastegate itself sits just off to one side on the compressor side, with a lever that goes to the exhaust side. It basically bolts on the side of the compressor with two small bolts, but unless I take the turbo off and get some new tools, there's no way the second bolt can go off. I really don't want to take the turbo off! I'd like to get a new wastegate, as 9 psi is somewhat excessive for the stock internals, the 9.5:1 compression ratio, and almost 100,000 miles! Any reccomendations for a rather inexpensive one? I would like to get one mounted like the ludespeed kit wastegate mounts, but that will mean removing the uppipe to drill it. UGH! On top of that, The Field SFC Hyper R I have has no instructions; I'm trying to find some, but trying to tune the car with no instructions is not too much fun!:rolleyes:
 

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Well, 9 psi shouldn't be too excessive for short periods of time, and if I remember correctly your car is 9.0:1, not 9.5:1.

As far as the wastegate goes, I can tell you of a great unit that I myself will be using here shortly. The site is www.dawesdevices.com and you need to look for the $35 MBC on the site. This is what Shiv used on his State 0 kits or something, so its not a bad unit and will hold boost.

Unless you can provide pictures of your wastegate, I honestly have not idea how it hooks up, sorry.

About all the vaccum lines, it sounds right, but it also sounds like you have all turbo parts that require a vaccum line hooked up to that one coming off the intake manifold. One thing to remember, the longer and more extensive vaccum lines are, the less vaccum they will have at the opposite end of the line. So, what I mean, is if you have another vaccum line on the intake manifold you have not tapped, then put a T for a few of your turbo parts on that one, not ALL on one.

On the tuning, just keep it conservative off the bat. I would say stay rich until you can get a good gauge on your car, sounds like the A/F one you have now kind of sucks, I don't know. Also, do you have bigger injectors?


Graham
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Can that MBC lower boost or does it just raise it? The only thing I saw was talk about raising it, which I don't want to do! Basically, my wastegate looks just like the one in diagram 2 of the installation instructions on that site! It's mounted on the turbo, has an actuator arm and a nipple. I'll try to get pics soon!
I was under the hood again today, and I discovered that with the vaccuum lines all teed up as I described, the BOV was not even venting any air! The noise was coming from the turbo area or somewhere around there! I installed a one-way valve into the hose that ties the BOV and manifold lines to the turbo and wastegate and boost gauge lines. By doing this, the BOV now realeases air again, but I didn't check the boost gauge yet-I'm hoping it will still show vaccuum! I will modify an old pic of under my hood to try and show you how everything is. I see what you are saying about finding another vaccuum line to tee into; I'll have to see what I can find.
Tuning is a huge headache! The car stalled on me about 5 times today; I figure I have a vaccuum problem or too much fuel, but I'm only guessing right now. That a/f gauge is a piece! No, I don't have bigger injectors. I maybe should consider them for 9psi, but I think at 5 the originals would be fine.
One other thing-the kit I bought had two T-25's in it, and I sold one to the shop that finished the install. I went and talked to the guy over there today about borrowing the wastegate from that turbo to see if it is set at 5psi, and he said the turbo is already gone, but the people who have it weren't using it, so he's going to try and get it for me.
 

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Well, sounds like everything is working better.

About the stalling, this could be because of your MAF, as for some reason it is getting a confused answer on the correct A/F ratio.

The BOV definetly needs to be releasing air, that would be a good thing. Your absolutely right about the Dawes Device, I forgot it could ONLY RAISE boost, not lower it. 9 psi is definetly too much for those injectors, so watch out. As far as the wastegate goes, try messing around with the spring if you can, shimming it, or whatever. Your just running too much boost, but i'll bet your car is fast!


Graham
 
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