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Discussion Starter · #241 ·
Unfortunately the Megan Racing lower brace doesn't clear my Borla header :/ Couldn't put it in. Also decided to do away with the front brake shields.

 

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Discussion Starter · #242 ·
Replace the front, lower-rear bushings with Whiteline as well.

These weren't fun to do under jackstands. I also didn't realize I didn't have big enough wrenches part way through :p Ran out and bought a 22mm and 24mm cause the Whitelines come with bigger nuts (haha... bigger nuts).

I had to contort myself into the weirdest positions to hold the socket onto the bolts while breaking them free using my legs and feet. I'm still sore.

The instructions also call for removing the transmission brace, but the 2 17mm bolts at the front just would not budge. So I ground 3-4mm notches in the lip of the brace, just enough for the corner of the bushing mount to clear. (I'll hit everything with black or undercoat another day).





I should've replaced these before I put the new sway bar in. It was harder prying the control arm down to get the bushings off and on.

This concludes my contribution to the front. All that's left are the front, lower-front bushings. I have Whiteline ones set aside that I'll get my shop to do with their press.

Looking forward to a test drive next week on a night where it'll be dry!
 

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Niiice. Looks like you've got quite the chassis upgrade there. I really gotta get off my ass and start installing all the shit I've been stockpiling for my car. Curious - why'd you ditch the front brake dust shields?
 

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Discussion Starter · #244 ·
Niiice. Looks like you've got quite the chassis upgrade there. I really gotta get off my ass and start installing all the shit I've been stockpiling for my car. Curious - why'd you ditch the front brake dust shields?
I don't want to and can't really drive my car over the winter, so that's when I generally do all the "big" work :p

Eh, I took em off for a few reasons:
  • I'm a less-is-more kinda guy
  • I don't drive Vicky enough to worry about stuff getting in there
  • I'll have to be ditching the rear shields as well when I upgrade, so this way it'll match
- One has a touch of surface rust
I believe they're a bit sought after, I'll probably sell em...
 

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Discussion Starter · #246 ·
Went for a test drive earlier this week, she definitely behaves a little differently in the corners. In a good way, just a matter of getting used to it. Feels like the back end doesn't want to kick out as much.

I also noticed vibration was cut down quite a bit. And when I drive over an unavoidable imperfection across the road, the steering wheel doesn't want to hiccup one way or the other, stays straight.

When I had her on the road last, the amp up and died on me. Took it to a local repair guy, some insulation and capacitors had failed due to age. All repaired and back in the car now.
 

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Discussion Starter · #247 ·
The dis-assembling of the rear has begun.

Calipers, rotors and dust shields removed. Sway bar's completely apart, just gotta snake it outta there. I ran outta time and got tired cause the previous owner left me with, hopefully, the last surprise. The bolts that hold the swaybar-to-frame brackets are messed up. On the driver's side, one of em broke off and stuck in the frame. On the driver's side, one bolt came out, but was incredibly hard to turn right til the bitter end. I suspect they were carelessly mashed in there with an air gun and cross-threaded. I'll take some pics next time.

Also, why did Subaru tack weld the rear dust shields onto the hubs? Couldn't bolt them on like the front?
 

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Discussion Starter · #248 ·
Got the sway bar out tonight. Pretty sad shape. Already have a place lined up for sandblasting and coating.


Also, this is one of the swaybar bracket-to-frame bolts that broke off on the driver's side.

The passenger side, both bolts came out, but one extremely difficultly. Pretty sure threads on that one's buggered.

Fuck you Vincent, I'm sick of all the shit you left behind.
 

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Discussion Starter · #249 ·
Attempted to start getting the driver's side control arm out and started snapping adapters.

I've invested in some high-quality 1/2" drive sockets and such - I'm ready for round 2!

I've also picked up a new pair of those king pin bolts from the dealer, just in case...
 

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Edit: on first glance, I thought you had subaru branded sockets lol.

I feel the same way about my RS, it is worth spending a bit of cash on quality tools. I ended up getting Wright Tools sockets and wrenches. Way better than the worn out chinese made crap I had been using.
 
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Discussion Starter · #251 ·
Edit: on first glance, I thought you had subaru branded sockets lol.

I feel the same way about my RS, it is worth spending a bit of cash on quality tools. I ended up getting Wright Tools sockets and wrenches. Way better than the worn out chinese made crap I had been using.
My Sears-bought Craftsman tools no longer have a warranty in Canada with Sears having pulled out. Other retailers that now carry Craftsman will only warranty tools that you bought directly from them with a receipt. I used to be able to swap out Craftsman at Sears no receipt, no questions asked :/

Did a bit of homework and there's a chain of tool stores around here that carry Gearwrench which I've been impressed with and will warranty broken stuff on the spot.
 

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Discussion Starter · #252 · (Edited)
My new Gearwrench 1/2" socket set came in handy and replaced the driver's side rear trailing arm a few nights ago.



The bolt holding the fork to the hub wasn't bad to loosen, but the trailing-arm-to-frame bolt at the front? Holy hell what an ordeal. It finally broke free with the worst metal stress/groaning/fart sound that actually scared me a bit! :S I thought I bent something on the car! But it was just really loud. Each bolt at each end were in terrific shape though, clean with the gold coating still intact so I re-used them with anti-seize.



The arm went in smoothly and lined up perfectly with everything. Ya, added some stickers, see how long they last :p Overall the Magan Racing and OEM trailing arm weighed about the same. I couldn't feel a difference.

I'm still a bit torn over these. I think they're overpriced for what they are. These were the most expensive parts I got for this phase and kinda not much to em in my opinion? I don't if if it's from manufacturing or shipping, but both fork ends on each were visibly leaning in on each other and would've never gone on smoothly. I had to use a caliper spreader to straighen them out. The bushing is definately an upgrade, completely solid and extremely firm. The bushing in the original arm I was able to flex around with a few fingers either from age or that's how it is from factory. I wonder if I should've gotten some no-name aftermarket ones and pop in my own bushings? Or would I end up no further ahead or behind? But, everything remains the same brand :/
 

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Discussion Starter · #253 ·
With everything apart and my tools out, I thought I'd try and at least get the control arm bolts loosened for next time. Well, they came loose as expected for these kinda bolts and weren't anything like the trailing arm front bolts. So I swapped those out on the driver's side as well.



I like the new sexiness...



These I feel are certainly more worth it then the trailing arms. Reasonably priced and adjustable. The 2 frame bolts were also in terrific shape and re-used them with anti-seize. I did get new king pin bolts from the dealer though. These arms feel heavier then the OEM ones, but not by much. Slightly noticeable is all. Stronger I suppose.
 

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Gear wrench is the shit! I have their bendy head 120 tooth ratchet, and their shallow socket set for my junkyarding tool set
 
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Discussion Starter · #255 ·
Had some time tonight, I power-brushed the surface crud off the outward facing side of the hub and coated it.



Another thing I did as part of this phase was I might as well do a nice little upgrade to the rear brakes. Ordered some rotors intended for a 3rd gen Legacy. They're an inch larger and the parts are priced no different then RS ones.


The caliper on this corner was also starting to seize. Instead of getting another RS caliper and mix-n-match the right bracket for it, I order a whole 3rd gen Legacy caliper as well.

This was the reason for removing the rear dust shields earlier. The rotor slid right on over the handbrake shoes perfectly, and the caliper lined up and bolted directly to the hub. The rear brakes are big enough now that I can't pear over the top to line up the caliper bolts anymore :p Had to mount the caliper with me under the car from behind.

Subtle, but fills up a bit more space now.
 

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Discussion Starter · #256 ·
Passenger-side trailing arm is in.



The front end bolt in the frame didn't make as much noise breaking free as the driver's side. But this side was trickier to break free.
On the driver's side I was able to push a breaker bar or ratchet down and toward the car. The passenger side's the opposite, and one would be pulling up and away from the car. Rather then try and lift the car up I managed to put extend a wrench with interlocking another wrench and stepping down on everything from within the wheel well, just barely.



The rear hub bolt broke free as expected for this bolt. Both bolts were in mint shape as well so re-used them with some anti-seize.
 

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Discussion Starter · #257 ·
Both passenger side rear control arms are in.



There were 2 surprises with these on this side. The 1st was that king-pin bolt at the hub, it was nearly seized in there. Its nut came off just fine, it was eventually breaking it free by slowly applying more and more pressure til it started spinning freely in the hub.

The 2nd was a pre-stripped nut. This one was the inner nut on the front of the 2 arms.

Had to put some vice grips on it and slowly break its bolt free.

This side had me a bit concerned cause this was the corner that was hit before I bought the car... and wasn't told about. I imagine the suspension had to be removed to get in there and do the body work. I suspect this wasn't put back together completely properly either. I also wonder if anything mechanical was replaced cause of the accident - so hard to tell. What I can tell is the previous owner was a lying sack.

But, I am thankful that that everything still lined up straight when I put the new arms in. I had to turn the driver's side arms to expand them to line up with the bolt holes and had to do the same for this side. Each arm on each side has the same about of threads exposed now as the other. So I'm grateful things are straight and symmetrical.
 

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Nothin worse than finding evidence of undisclosed or shoddily repaired damage from a previous owner on any vehicle. Glad you got it sorted out. I've been thinking about replacing all my rear trailing arm and lateral link bushings when I replace all the rear sway bar components andd bar. What do you think of the Megan racing stuff you just installed? Had a chance to put em through their paces yet? I ask cuz I think it may just be easier to replace the arms and links as opposed to replacing the worn bushings.
 

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Discussion Starter · #259 ·
I haven't tried out all the rear arms yet, Vicky's butt is still up in the air :p Not quite done yet.

I did try out all the front stuff I put in earlier and it was definitely a different feel. A good feeling, just a matter of getting used to it. It does change the car's personality quite a bit.

I got Megan Racing coilovers a few years ago based on the people's thoughts on this very forum, and I also like them. It's a brand that's a good price-point, and I like to use as few different brands of stuff as possible. Basically what Megan Racing doesn't make for our cars, I went with Whiteline (already had some Whiteline parts in there when I bought her, so :/ )

I had the same thoughts are you - bushings vs whole arms. What I noticed was if I hunted around enough, I found for $30-$50 more, I was able to find a whole, aftermarket performance arms (some even adjustable!) over just the bushing(s) that would've been needed. And with a whole arm, the bushings are also already pressed in, saving the trouble of getting the old ones out and new ones pressed in. Realized in was a bit of a no-brainer for me :p
 

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Discussion Starter · #260 ·
Power-brushed and coated the outside of the passenger's rear hub.


In this corner the caliper is essentially new from last time, so this one is a hybrid of an RS piston body and 3rd gen Legacy bracket. I never swapped over just the bracket before, it was easier then I thought.


Passenger-rear is all put back together.


Next is some cleaning and coating of a few surfaces while the ass end is up, but it's too damn cold right now...
 
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