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Discussion Starter #221
I took the added step of ensuring the outside of the sub box is also sealed with more construction adhesive.

The back of the amp's platform will be mounted to the front of the sub box. (The 3rd bracket is not in the picture, I needed it to get the right hardware I want for the mounting I have in mind).
 

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Discussion Starter #222
Amp's rack / platform is drying. Hard to see cause things went so smoothly I didn't stop to take photos of the bare piece; but mounting holes are at the front, and risers at the rear.

Once it's in I should have everything wired up and onto the new floor...
 

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Discussion Starter #223
Amp platform's dry, mounted the amp to the platform, mounted the platform to the box and wired it up.



Holy hell is it loud! Something was very off with my previous setup...
 

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Discussion Starter #224
You may have noticed in previous photos that I didn't have a shift knob. It was also something I wanted to work on.

I have the STI piston shift knob and have been suffering with the worn plastic adapter pretty much since I’ve had it. (Got it used from a former friends’ roommate in ’06? ’07?) It was silicone’d together this entire time and couldn’t shift too harshly or it’d come loose.

Although I understand what the numbers for thread sizes mean, I’m not 100% sure how you’re supposed to measure them, so I set out and got a new thread adapters.

They are: 16x1.25mm, 20x1.5mm, 18x1.5mm and the original plastic crap.


The 18x1.5mm fit best. I took advantage of the hex-head portion of it and clocked it straight on the shifter.
 

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Discussion Starter #225
It threaded into the knob, but was loose until it finally bottomed out. Hard to see, but I JB Welded the adapter into the knob.



After it cured, I didn’t want to give anyone the idea that it can be taken out with a wrench, so I rounded the corners down and made it round. More or less matches the knob.

 

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Discussion Starter #226
I threaded it on, synched it into place, and zip tied the shift boot to the rest of the exposed thread of the shifter.




Why Subaru provided a $0.07 adapter with their $100 - $150 shift knob, I’ll never know. I might make a separate post of this cause I didn’t find anything online that anyone’s ‘repaired’ these before.
 

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Discussion Starter #227
I'm a little concerned, this fit the first time :p

 

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Discussion Starter #228
Last week I cut the other side down to size and mounted their risers...


... coated the bottom ...


... and then the top.
 

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Discussion Starter #229
During this past week, I patched, wrapped...


... and cut reliefs in the floor's new covering.
 

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Discussion Starter #230
And done!



A few odds and ends to wrap up the interior is touching up the exposed rivets and some spots on the seats.
 

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Discussion Starter #231
Also earlier in the week, I took Vicky out for her first drive this year! Man those seats are nice!!! It was also a pleasant change driving with a solid shift knob. So I took a photo-op...
 

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Discussion Starter #232
With a holiday coming up tomorrow and some time for myself, got some maintenance-ish things outta the way.

The right rear caliper's seized, and since I was going to be in that corner, also ordered a new fuel filler neck.
I was advised mine needed replacing cause I can see some rust when looking down into it.

And that advice was correct.



Swapping out the caliper took 20 min, the filler pipe consumed the other 5 - 6 hours. SO MUCH rust and dirt came out from under the cover! It was a real pain getting that main hose off the end of the pipe too.

The more I handled it, the more started to disintegrate. I'm surprised my engine light never came on cause of this.



I picked up an aftermarket/jobber replacement pipe. The looping hose you see if me making a longer one then what came with it. Wouldn't reach 1 of those 2 return line things.



One of those returns lines at the bottom had a bit of surface rust on its clamp. Not sure how bad it is, but it down right impossible to get in there and change em under a jack stand - so I left them. If either start to leak, I'm taking that to my mechanic and ask him to name his price.

All shiny and new, but that was a struggle too. The bodyshop that the previous owner had the work done when the car got it either misaligned the filler neck "cup" in the 1/4 panel, bent the original fuel filler neck to fit, or both. Things were off everywhere by 3mm here and there. I had to wrestle it into position where I could bolt everything back up.



Put everything back together, and doesn't even look like I did anything.



1 of the cover's mounting bolts doesn't line up with the pipes bracket. That's aftermarket for ya. And the top mounting bolt didn't unscrew, it came off in the cover with a chunk of bracket. I melted it out and used a new bolt with a big washer.
 

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Discussion Starter #233
Some bad news though. With everything apart, I thought it'd be a good idea to brush everything off and hit it with some leftover rubber sealant spray I had left over from my interior re-do. I ended up doing this with just a wire brush.



Picture yourself as the right, rear shock, looking out at the sidewalk. This one makes me feel bad. I don't think it's structural or anything's compromised cause if I knocked everything out with a brush, it's been on its last legs for who knows how long. Nothing I can do right now, applied as much sealant as I could. At least I'm getting to know where are the areas of concern are when I'm at Phase 4 and take her in for bodywork & paint. I'm going to bite the bullet on this one, pay the bodyshop to fix it right, and move on with life.
 

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Discussion Starter #234
Not so much of an upgrade, more like maintenance, but still interesting.

My right front caliper was also seized. I had plans to rebuild it, but reman'd calipers are so much cheaper nowadays, I simply ordered one.


Couple of coats of blue


And a high-heat while vinyl decal


That's seized on there good! haha


The right, front caliper was 'original' in that in came with the car from the previous owner when I bought it. In the earlier 00's, he got in on a group by for a JDM 4-pot front setup. I think his "deal" at the time was $1000 or so for used 4-pots, used rotors, and even used pads. I had to replace the left front caliper a year or 2 after I took ownership cause it developed crack right in its casing? I still don't know what happened there...
I'm surprised this one lasted as long as it did. Previous owner got used himself. Who know how many km's, or even what year exactly it was from.

Back on the car


I like it
 

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Discussion Starter #235
Now with blue Mcgard lock lugs.



Also put insurance on her for the rest of the month! Gotta enjoy her a bit after all that work...
 

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Discussion Starter #237
Nice work! I have to do the filer neck on my Outback - not lookin forward to it.
Hardest park was getting the pipe loose at the rubber hose that connects to the gas tank...
 

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Discussion Starter #238
All the parts for Phase 2 this upcoming winter have come in. Am I missing anything? :p

 

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Discussion Starter #239
Phase 2: "Footwork" , has begun...

Started with the front of the car as there’s not as much too it as the rear.

Swapped in a Whiteline 22mm front swaybar with all the matching hardware, bushings and links. Little tricky getting it snaked passed the header, and also took me a while to figure out which direction it went on cause I wasn’t paying attention to how the stock one was oriented before I took it out.





The endlinks-to-bar bolts were an insanely tight squeeze but they got in there. (There’s a lot of space between it and the tie-rod, just the angle of the photo).

 

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Discussion Starter #240
I also put new front rotors in cause my one front caliper that was seized I guess I had left for a little too long cause it got so hot it actually cracked the rotor at that corner.

 
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