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Discussion Starter #1
Hi folks - I've been looking for a 2000 or 2001 2.5RS, but stumbled on an on '03 last night. I don't know much about these cars, but it seemed to be a generational update, but basically the important bits remained the same, true?

What's a reasonable price for an '03 with 200K miles, original motor (blown head fixed long ago) and no accident history?

Things I should check for when inspecting the car?

Your input/help is greatly appreciated.
 

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www.jackstalk.com
‘98 RS, 911 Cab, CT6 TT, Escalade ESV
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Mechanically theyre very similar cars. The 02+ cars are heavier but also more rigid/sturdy. You can probably expect a clean body 03 RS with 200k on it to go for something around $2000-$3500. Honestly I would just spring for a WRX at that price range as they can be had for maybe $1-2k more.
 

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While not everything in this thread will apply, some of it is probably helpful: Used Subaru Buyers Guide . If you want to scare the crap out of someone who is selling a Subaru who understands head gasket issues, checking the things listed in the thread will really make them squirm. And I definitely agree with Jack on the WRX thing if you aren't married to the idea of getting an 98-01 RS.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Mechanically theyre very similar cars. The 02+ cars are heavier but also more rigid/sturdy. You can probably expect a clean body 03 RS with 200k on it to go for something around $2000-$3500. Honestly I would just spring for a WRX at that price range as they can be had for maybe $1-2k more.
Thanks! This is spot on. Seller wants $4K and the car needs a clutch "soon". So, I unless he wants to sell it under $2K, I'm not spending the money only to have to fix it and have WRX money in it.

While not everything in this thread will apply, some of it is probably helpful: Used Subaru Buyers Guide . If you want to scare the crap out of someone who is selling a Subaru who understands head gasket issues, checking the things listed in the thread will really make them squirm. And I definitely agree with Jack on the WRX thing if you aren't married to the idea of getting an 98-01 RS.
Definitely not married. Was actually looking for a BRZ when i came across this RS. I hadn't looked at a WRX, but I should. Manual gearbox is the #1 factor. Otherwise, the price has to fit the car I'm buying.

Based on your user name do you plan to autox this car?
Maybe a few times but not competitively. Biggest goal is to teach a new driver/kid how to drive a manual. So, an autox would be to teach the same child some car control skills.

You all have been amazing! Really appreciate the insight!
 

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www.jackstalk.com
‘98 RS, 911 Cab, CT6 TT, Escalade ESV
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If your goal is to teach a new driver how to drive manual, that car is perfect since the clutch it on the way out anyway. A new clutch and pressure plate will run you something like $150-$300 for a decent brand and can be done in your driveway in less than 10 hours with regular tools for a first timer.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
If your goal is to teach a new driver how to drive manual, that car is perfect since the clutch it on the way out anyway. A new clutch and pressure plate will run you something like $150-$300 for a decent brand and can be done in your driveway in less than 10 hours with regular tools for a first timer.
In my youth, would've done that. I'm at a point in my life where time with family is much more important.

I have done clutch jobs on my miata racecar a bunch of times. So can do it almost in my sleep.
 

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Going with a non-turbo variant would also mean you're dealing with less headaches and simplicity.. which suits your time requirements as you had stated, when performing basic maintenance or daily usage in reliability. WRX prices seem pretty cheap atm but regardless which direction you go, definitely inspect as much of the body as you can, as a lot of these cars are rusting away, depending on where they were geographically used.. and you could also use that as a bargaining chip in your final price negotiations. Good luck, man!!
 
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