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Discussion Starter #22
Does half of that even fit the GC chassis? Some I have never seen like the triangle radiator one.

Interesting, hurry and get back to put on.


Been back for a few weeks now. And got busy on the 6 speed swap. Enjoy:

Got the car in the garage, general clean up interior


Planned on getting it done in 5 days, started late had 4 (spoiler alert, I’m missing some bolts so had to abandon on day 4)




Gonna try to adapt this genome muffler (2.5”) to my stock L 1.5” mid pipe



Some precise removal, rust free makes it easy as pie


Distractions


Outtttt




Decided to undercoat the whole undercarriage. Hope it wasn’t a mistake. I used por15 degreaser, with some amazon drill head bristle brushes to scrub the whole chassis. Then cleaned with some left over tar wax remover and finished with denatured alcohol. Let it air dry for 24h, then undercoated w a light single layer.




Video:
Gc8 new undercoat - YouTube

Now for the install:

Sneak peak for 2019.. leaving stock L body for winter





Problem 1: spent an extra 2-3 hours going to the store for small files & filing one of the hub splines




Found the oil leak... there was essentially 0 gasket here.


I gave away my rear end and forgot to take out the lateral link bolts.. so had to order they’re $20 a piece


Used wrx pedal box. Wasn’t too bad fitting it.



So what’s left?
Mate transmission,
drill extra hole for starter,
remove transmission,
tap that hole,
install flywheel clutch
Install trans/mount/shifter assembly
Install clutch master cyl
Connect clutch master to slave
Hook up speed sensor
Hook up starter
Install iwire dccd
Install heat shields
Install drive shaft
Install Cusco under brace
Install front axles,
Install gc8 front lca bushings
Install gd alum. Control arms
Install gd front hubs
Install brake lines
Bleed brakes
Bleed slave
Fill trans
Fill diff
Re check all bolts
Wheels on
Carpet seats back in
Go stall out in 6th gear doing 65 with the anemic ej18

Enjoy.








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Discussion Starter #25
You re-used the plastic plate of doom? Change it!!!!!!!!!!


Getting rid of this Motor next year.

Also just got back to the car it’s been sitting in a garage @ 50f for the 6 days and the undercoating is still tacky. I think I may have not washed the degreaser off 100% or maybe that the garage was wet and super humid for those days painting on 12/14. It’s 12/20 and the cans of crc undercoating says cure in 48hr


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Discussion Starter #26 (Edited)


Wish I had a lift... jacks are maxed out


Got the trans mated to the motor. Used the 6 speed bolts with a pass through socket, as usually there’s like .5” of starter flange.


Don’t know yet if I’ll drill like this, or mark and remove. Either way have to remove to install flywheel clutch


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Discussion Starter #27 (Edited)
Ladies and gentlemen, catastrophic fuck up.

During drilling the new hole for the 2nd starter bolt, I didn’t realize how far I went and went to far.. turns out there’s a water jacket right behind that. I can’t believe it. Anyone got an ej18 around central NJ?



So drilling 2.2cm is already too much. I tapped the hole until the end...


I’m thinking about actually caulking this bolt w


And then just putting it back together and maybe only having 1.25cm or 1.5 of the threads go in, so I don’t block the water passage.. lol

It’ll rattle heavy during start coz it’s the starter bolt.




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1995 EZ30 Coupe
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You'll probly be ok, I did the same thing to an exhaust manifold bolt on my SVX. Leaks coolant when removed, but doesn't leak coolant or exhaust when tightened, and I didn't even use a sealant.

Great job on everything so far :projectsti.com:
 

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Discussion Starter #30 (Edited)
You'll probly be ok, I did the same thing to an exhaust manifold bolt on my SVX. Leaks coolant when removed, but doesn't leak coolant or exhaust when tightened, and I didn't even use a sealant.



Great job on everything so far :projectsti.com:


I got the trans in, all bolts in, and the “threaded” hole doesn’t tighten. It isn’t gonna be a tight seal. Not sure if the threads got fucked already. I’m thinking about getting a 10x1.5 bolt and cross threading it. Or maybe some standard bolt. Either way I figured out the issue...

Doing this, your supposed to thread with an 11x1.25 (or use one of those rivet in threaded grommets) the bellhousing hole! Drill the starter to accept an 11mm bolt good to go. Have the 2nd starter bolt attach to bel housing not block coz as we see here, the flange around the block is off and doesn’t line up w the flange on the belhousing

Feeling real stupid.
 

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Discussion Starter #31


Another bad move getting rid of my old parts. I think I could use this stock rear section of my trans crossmember. What do I do for the front? My L did not come with anything there, the gd member doesn’t reach.


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#32
95 Coupe, 95 Sedan & 95 Wagon
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See the plugs hiding there. Pop those out. You don't go to the open threads on the a-arms.

You are ok. Back is probably plugged to from the factory.

Carry on

PS. Plug the open holes you have where the old mount went to keep them safe.
 

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Discussion Starter #34
What bushing are you using actually?


Bushings on what? Front lca? Using gc8 ones.

As for the threaded plugged holes I’ll check it out next time I’m at the shop.

Also, decided remove the trans again..... I’ll tap that hole in the block again but with a 11mm bolt, jam it in there w more thread sealant and cut off the head. (A stud will be sticking out)

Then I will go ahead and correctly drill & tap THE BELLHOUSING and reinstall.

I found a few short blocks but I don’t have the time or tools to swap blocks or even replace rings/bearings and reassemble. It’ll be too much work and cash considering I have a new engine on installment payments.


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Discussion Starter #38


Ended up not plumbing the motor and running it. I’m gonna do body work on it tbh.




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Discussion Starter #40
Getting no where with the car. Got a lot going on but collecting parts still





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