TwinKams L
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This is gonna be it for a few weeks. This car is like a black hole. Every night I work on it I think it’ll be on wheels by the end of it, but nopeeeeee.
More braces. Forum engineers say if you stitch weld you don’t need braces. But f em.
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This transmission was in this car mated to a 1.8L ej, it was supposed to stay that way for years, but then I drilled a hole in my block. Two years later it’s back in. Mated to a 2.0L ej.
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My intake is a blitz whatever to a zero sport elbow meant for an SG? I think? I bought it for cheap thinking hell yea what a steal but turns out it really doesn’t work. Now should I trim it to make it fit? OR use one of my elbows I hoarded for the last decade?
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Also, I wanted grounding, ALL the grounding. This kit cost me $40 - Amazon / yahoo auctions.
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I also got this Impreza Gt (euro) snorkel for like $5 at a eu junkyard & I modified it with some intake I found in a dumpster- true story. And topped it off with some extra silicone coupler + funnel that came w some items I bought years ago. Still need 1 coupler to connect genuine Subaru snorkel w garbage.
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Lastly, I swear I measured the oil cooler brackets square with the brace. Now that it’s on, it’s deff not square but crooked as F. Idk if I should fix it. It’s welded to withstand 309mph. So it won’t be so easy to fix. Maybe I’ll mess with the mounting points only. 1 step forwards - 2 steps back.
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More braces. Forum engineers say if you stitch weld you don’t need braces. But f em.
This transmission was in this car mated to a 1.8L ej, it was supposed to stay that way for years, but then I drilled a hole in my block. Two years later it’s back in. Mated to a 2.0L ej.
My intake is a blitz whatever to a zero sport elbow meant for an SG? I think? I bought it for cheap thinking hell yea what a steal but turns out it really doesn’t work. Now should I trim it to make it fit? OR use one of my elbows I hoarded for the last decade?
Also, I wanted grounding, ALL the grounding. This kit cost me $40 - Amazon / yahoo auctions.
I also got this Impreza Gt (euro) snorkel for like $5 at a eu junkyard & I modified it with some intake I found in a dumpster- true story. And topped it off with some extra silicone coupler + funnel that came w some items I bought years ago. Still need 1 coupler to connect genuine Subaru snorkel w garbage.
Lastly, I swear I measured the oil cooler brackets square with the brace. Now that it’s on, it’s deff not square but crooked as F. Idk if I should fix it. It’s welded to withstand 309mph. So it won’t be so easy to fix. Maybe I’ll mess with the mounting points only. 1 step forwards - 2 steps back.
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45 Posts
Just read the thread front to back, learned alot and the car is awesome. Keep at it!
Thanks I’m glad someone got some know-how from this train wreck of a build.
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Ya boi out here creepin on EU junkyards & rally shops with bootleg made in Taiwan silicone.
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* I checked the temp sensors and they work.
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* this BOV cost me $55.80 on an EU “Craigslist” guy didn’t know what he had I don’t think.
All this blitz stuff I got for cheap and since for my green restored car I have a ej20g - I can use these parts to round off that swap. Making the green car that much more “rare”
Also not pictured, I found an old - in decent shape - 1998 Impreza Wrx front cross member. I read ages ago that the jdm/euro turbo Impreza member had the engine sit lower. I have an extra GDB member back in the states and now this turbo euro member I’m bringing back with me. Once I have them side by side I will measure height from frame mount to engine mount & will settle this myth once and for all.
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* I checked the temp sensors and they work.
* this BOV cost me $55.80 on an EU “Craigslist” guy didn’t know what he had I don’t think.
All this blitz stuff I got for cheap and since for my green restored car I have a ej20g - I can use these parts to round off that swap. Making the green car that much more “rare”
Also not pictured, I found an old - in decent shape - 1998 Impreza Wrx front cross member. I read ages ago that the jdm/euro turbo Impreza member had the engine sit lower. I have an extra GDB member back in the states and now this turbo euro member I’m bringing back with me. Once I have them side by side I will measure height from frame mount to engine mount & will settle this myth once and for all.
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18 Posts
Love what you're doing to this thing, started so simple, and went so extreme.
Nice work so far.
Nice work so far.
Thanks, tho the extreme happened because I kept F-ing up extremely lol car was supposed to be done w stitch/ej207/6speed/respray beginning 2020. HAH.
Speaking of done. I got 2 more “bare” coupe chassis waiting to be done with restoration. So I need this red one done ASAP, I don’t want to drag these restomods over the next 10 years.
Got back home over the weekend and organized parts I’ve been picking for the last 3-4 years to finish said 2x bare chassis. Got basically everything besides drivetrains and suspension arms. I think I’ll keep the next few resto’s posted in this thread too. So it’ll be a long one folks.
Back at the rental garage got aftermarket afr & exhaust temp bungs in, bottom ti fan shroud top out of steel. Ti side will provide some heat shielding effect. Also used a carbon inlet as a shroud directing air to the back of the motor, I’ll see how she wobbles.
These are 18x7.5 et50 with 10mm spacer barelyyyy clears the brembos. May have to get 15/20?
Car isn’t starting.. I think it’s be I don’t have a fuel dampener on the return line. Should be in tomorrow will update. Besides that, got the complete intierior in, my HVAC control mounting points disintegrated for no reason, and my dome light cover exploded as I put my hand over it by accident.
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Bedsides that… my beat rush / laile floor brace is in the way of the seat brackets so I gotta chop a little metal off em. It’s always something. C
I fixed a massive crack in my veil side splitter, it was super delicate and no way usable before. Some fiber glass reinforcement & carbon infused bondo and it’s solid AF.
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Also made a pretty sweet alternator cover out of a $5 “scrap” plate of titanium I bought on eBay a while ago.
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Also had big issue with enlarging the holes in my diff to accept the aluminum drive shaft from driveshaft shop that used m10 bolts. I blew through like 4 drill bits, couldn’t find a reamer locally so I used an m10 carbide bur bit. It went through the hardend steel like butter.
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Bedsides that… my beat rush / laile floor brace is in the way of the seat brackets so I gotta chop a little metal off em. It’s always something. C
I fixed a massive crack in my veil side splitter, it was super delicate and no way usable before. Some fiber glass reinforcement & carbon infused bondo and it’s solid AF.
Also made a pretty sweet alternator cover out of a $5 “scrap” plate of titanium I bought on eBay a while ago.
Also had big issue with enlarging the holes in my diff to accept the aluminum drive shaft from driveshaft shop that used m10 bolts. I blew through like 4 drill bits, couldn’t find a reamer locally so I used an m10 carbide bur bit. It went through the hardend steel like butter.
I wonder if the version 8 rom can be flashed onto a version 9 ecu? And if not, I was able to find alternate ecus that worked for my version 8 ej207 build. I'm personally running a JDM forester ecu with the ver 8 ej207 rom flashed, because those are 1/3 the price of a real deal. Just don't get an ecu for a drive by wire car because the DBC rom won't flash iirc.
Eek I already rush bought an ecu yesterday (from GDB-E) and didn’t take drive by wire/cable into consideration. Pretty sure 04/E are still cable.
Got a 22611AJ820 -
Description: GDB WRX STi spec-C E type(04.6-05.5) MT B2 6MT207 22611AJ820 20220FH0B21
It was pricy but if I bought a $150 unit then had to mess with flashing etc, it prob end up being the same price. Also now I’m not in a rush to tune, like I would be with a usdm wax ecu (wiring guru said that would fire up the car)
For future reference, these should also work nice on a drive by cable ej207 v8 -
GDB WRX STi C-D type(02.11-04.5) MT 6A 6MT207 22611AH581 20220FH06A1
GDB WRX STi spec-C C-D type(02.11-04.5) MT 6B 6MT207 22611AH591 20220FH06B1
Pic below of immobilized ecu
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Cleanest Red Impreza I've seen in a very long time!
Thanks, looks like @$$ with the different colored panels and dust currently. It was a one owner California car. I kinda wish I didn’t stitch weld it since it was “perfect”… i did though spray like 3 cans of fluid film in rockers, frame & rear wheel well so I hope this car stays mint for the next 50 years.
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Solid updates, car started. Got some random issues if anyone peeking at this thread knows how to diagnose &/or fix let me know
1) HKS EGT gauge doesn’t work… bulb works, and if I have one wire from sensor plugged in, and touch other sensor barb, sensor maxes out. Though both wires from sensor plugged in, it doesn’t read at all, lowest temp is 100c and had the car idle for like 45 mins the other day. Unit was new old stock in original box obvious first time install on all components.
2) hvac blower doesn’t turn on. It lights up but doesn’t blow air. I removed the condenser part in the plastic boxes but have the complete fan assembly etc.
3) what is boost surge? In relation to my greddy fv bov ? I have it set at basically the softest setting as any softer screw will come out, and turbo still “flutters”, is this surge or is this just normal operating sounds. Sounds cool.
4) at idle I didn’t see my waste gate actuator move at all, even while holding rpms at around 4-5 ish for a few seconds deff building some boost… the actuator is a JUN unit and I turned it like 2 or 3 times before installing… should I just worry about it after a test drive and actually building boost?
5) anyone have set up instructions for billion fan controller pro 2 ? I have it installed, wired to fans and temp, but idk what the buttons do.
6) after filling coolant, and idling for like 30 mins my FAN kicked on, one. Is this normal for the ej207 ecu? Only turn on one or both depending on temp? Or is one of my fans wired wrong?
7) anyone have insight into knock meters? I have a meter hooked up and it shows an orange light at power but doesn’t show any readings while idle or reving, it is an integral trecs unit. Instructions would be amazing, there’s one yellow wire (thin) I have going to knock wire @ ecu, and another grey wire (thicker) that idk what it goes it? Could it be ground? Came with a bullet connector attached so doubt it’s ground???
8) issue with cluster temp gauge? It’s a jdm cluster that I wired up. When cars on after 30 seconds temp gauge goes max and stays there. Haven’t messed with it but have solutions on how to fix from wiring guy. If it doesn’t work I’ll update with details next post
9) no oil leaks from all my lines yay!
10) no exhaust leaks from all my installs, yay!!
11) blinkers are fast.. but I got like half the lights in and bulbs so I’ll check back when all lights are in.
Pic for attention:
Good guy:
![]()
Bad guy:
![]()
*note the exhaust water. She’s a squirter.
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1) HKS EGT gauge doesn’t work… bulb works, and if I have one wire from sensor plugged in, and touch other sensor barb, sensor maxes out. Though both wires from sensor plugged in, it doesn’t read at all, lowest temp is 100c and had the car idle for like 45 mins the other day. Unit was new old stock in original box obvious first time install on all components.
2) hvac blower doesn’t turn on. It lights up but doesn’t blow air. I removed the condenser part in the plastic boxes but have the complete fan assembly etc.
3) what is boost surge? In relation to my greddy fv bov ? I have it set at basically the softest setting as any softer screw will come out, and turbo still “flutters”, is this surge or is this just normal operating sounds. Sounds cool.
4) at idle I didn’t see my waste gate actuator move at all, even while holding rpms at around 4-5 ish for a few seconds deff building some boost… the actuator is a JUN unit and I turned it like 2 or 3 times before installing… should I just worry about it after a test drive and actually building boost?
5) anyone have set up instructions for billion fan controller pro 2 ? I have it installed, wired to fans and temp, but idk what the buttons do.
6) after filling coolant, and idling for like 30 mins my FAN kicked on, one. Is this normal for the ej207 ecu? Only turn on one or both depending on temp? Or is one of my fans wired wrong?
7) anyone have insight into knock meters? I have a meter hooked up and it shows an orange light at power but doesn’t show any readings while idle or reving, it is an integral trecs unit. Instructions would be amazing, there’s one yellow wire (thin) I have going to knock wire @ ecu, and another grey wire (thicker) that idk what it goes it? Could it be ground? Came with a bullet connector attached so doubt it’s ground???
8) issue with cluster temp gauge? It’s a jdm cluster that I wired up. When cars on after 30 seconds temp gauge goes max and stays there. Haven’t messed with it but have solutions on how to fix from wiring guy. If it doesn’t work I’ll update with details next post
9) no oil leaks from all my lines yay!
10) no exhaust leaks from all my installs, yay!!
11) blinkers are fast.. but I got like half the lights in and bulbs so I’ll check back when all lights are in.
Pic for attention:
Good guy:
Bad guy:
*note the exhaust water. She’s a squirter.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
1995 Impreza L first drive after swap
youtube.com
Maiden voyage. Doesn’t rev past $4,000 or build over 8ft lbs of boost. integral ecu plugged in.
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