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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
hey yall I'm lookin to install an IHI VF22 turbo charger on my 93 1.8L suby. Before hand I plan on getting the engine rebuilt with forged pistons, crank, NOS Rings, etc. I was wondering if anyone has ever done this or how hard it is or if there is a reason why it shouldn't be done. There is not an existing turbo on the car. Oh a performance clutch, and chasis braces will also be applied if this is done.

Thanks for your input!
 

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First of all, can you explain to us what "NOS" rings are?

Second, the VF-22 is a pretty big turbo. With your 1.8L engine, you may want to look into something just a little smaller, such as a Legacy RHB5 turbo. Both of these turbo's are made by IHI, though they are diffrent sizes. The VF-22 in your case will probably gause a significant amount of turbo lag, due to its large size. The Legacy RHB5 (VF-10) on the other hand will produce more boost down low and be more streetable, not to mention they can be had quite cheap as compared to the VF-22. Just to put it into context for you, the WRX guys running the VF-22's (remember this is a 2.0L engine, not a smaller 1.8L) don't see a whole lot of boost unitl about 3500-3700 RPM. Now, take this turbo and put it on the smaller 1.8L flowing less exhaust. My guess is you won't be seeing the boost you want until around 4000 RPM. Now, I am not you, and don't know what exactly you want to use it for, but the smaller turbo in your car will be more streetable, probably producing boost anywhere from 2500-3000 RPM.

Graham
 

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wasting money

Why spend all that money on a 1.8? That just seems sill to me. It's one thing to do a more budget turbo like Subachad did on a 1.8 but to put alot of money into that block is silly. For all the money you will spend you could pickup a 2.2T block or even do a WRX engine swap. Just my opinion.
Joshua
 

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Discussion Starter #4
thanks

ok NOS rings high performance rings able to withstand higher horses/torque/more durable, mostly used for nitrous oxide systems. oh and thanks for the info on the legacy rhb5
 

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I agree with Yebo. A stock 2.2L turbo block can be had for less than $1500, couple with some 2.5rs heads and intake manifold you have a reliable near 300hp daily driver for about the same amount of money invested as on a 1.8L. Between you me and the wall, even with boost, the 1.8L is fun and fairly solid, but just doesn't have the displacement to make good reliable hp.

As for the boost, my IHI RHB5 comes on about 1500 if I have the boost controller set right. This is with 6psi mind you and without the boost controller, I'm at 5psi around 2500 or so RPM. I've been meaning to put some video up comparing the before and after of the boost controller. The Dawes is the one I'm using.

Chad
93 1.8T
 

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You think that Dawes thing is worth it Chad? I need to up my boost, I'm only running around 4 psi right now, but I really don't have the money for an EBC. I just don't want to boost spikes, and I'm not sure how will the Dawes would work.


Graham
 

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Discussion Starter #7
2.2L turbo it is

Wellt he opinion seems to be fairly high on the 2.2L turbo seems to be pretty highly recomended and i like the sound of 300 HP. thanks guys!
 

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Graham,

I definately recommend the Dawes Devices boost controller. In fact look at the boost controller that Shiv puts on the WRX's and you'll notice a striking resemblence. When you first install it, be careful that you install it the right way. Once it's in, leave it at the loosest setting and it shouldn't change anything as far as your boost level goes.

What I did to adjust mine was set it so I could just barely blow through it. Then installed onto the car. That helped the boost come on MUCH quicker, but didn't actually raise the boost.

It's well worth the $35. That pressure switch on the other hand...

Chad
93 1.8T
 

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Interesting. Although, this unit CAN be set to higher boost pressures? Like I said, I am only running around 4 psi, and I think 6 psi would be more suitable (this is on the Legacy turbo), but I just don't have the cash to get into an EBC.

I can understand your mentioning Shiv using something just like this, but as we both know the WRX's run much higher boost than our stock internal RS's and your 1.8L. As previously found, MBC's are better suited for higher boost applications, as they become finicky and can spike on lower boost (under 7-8 psi). I want to be positive that the Dawes controller won't spike, as I can't afford an engine rebuild. From what I understand, its design is somewhat different from traditional MBC's, though using something more like a wastegate.

Do you have any links for pictures for this thing Chad?

Graham
 

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Graham,

With the design of the boost controller, you might get a slight spike during gear changes, but the spike would be maybe 1psi at 3000 RPM. If it's spiking any other time, it's not in right. I would not recommend using that hose teqnique's crap that he sends with it. Get a real vacuum line that doesn't pinch up like that. The picture that is below is with the hose teqniques vacuum line, you can see why I replaced it, check out those bends.



Back on the WRX thing, when this boost controller is on a WRX, even with it set for the boost to stay at the stock setting, it virtually eliminates turbo lag. That said, those that have "larger" turbos could really use one of these. If you want a second opinion, check out Dabblers "I'm not complaining, I just want more power" post on that other forum.

Chad 93 1.8T
 

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Thanks for the picture Chad!

Hmmm, looks like a pretty simple device. If I'm not mistaken its just the bronze looking contraption with the zip ties around it, right? Is there more to it I can't see?

Yes, I would definetly put some real vaccum line on there, that stuff looks like crap. So it seems like spikes aren't going to be too much of a problem with this unit.

One more question: Did you disable your stock wastegate and is it necessary with this controller? Did you just leave it in place?

I'm gonna look into this some more.

Graham
 

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Yeah, it's pretty simple. All there is to it is what you see, plus on the inside there is a ball valve (AKA ball bearing) that is forced shut by a spring. Once the boost pressure builds it pushes the ball and goes on to the wastegate from there.

To adjust it, by screwing the device down, you are compressing the spring and essentially increasing the spring rate, hence rasing the boost.

As for my wastegate, the stock one one likes to boost about 8-10 psi so I got a Deltagate External wastegate. Which by the way does not give me the problems that some are experiencing.

Chad
93 1.8T
 
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