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03' RS, 03' Baja, 11' XT For
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Discussion Starter #1
I have an 03' 2.5 N/A that just had Delta 1000 cams and new timing belt installed 7k miles ago. Driving to work on friday it just died with no noises, it just quit running.

It will not start and sounds like a Chrysler when turning it over. I checked for codes but there are none.

I took the timing cover off and centered the crankshaft timing mark. The passenger side head timing marks were off by 90 degrees. I took the belt off and tried to turn the passenger side head to the proper timing marks. There is around 80 degrees of play in the cam gear before hitting any valve spring resistance. I wanted to install a belt back on it and check the compression but I have no way to telling if the timing is correct with all the play in the cam gear.

Has anyone seen this before? Bent valves?

Is it possible to pull off the passenger side head without pulling the engine?
 

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2003 BRP 2.5 RS, 2005 Camo 20K
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2 teeth is the amount of jump you can have before colliding with valves. 90 degrees??? eeek! Passenger (R) side cam gear WILL have play in it and you can set R side without holding it. Driver side (L) there IS valve spring tension and you will need to hold that pulley in place while you slip on belt. Make sure you are timing to crank sprocket LINE. NOT arrow! Also make sure all cam cogs line up. R side: cam lines up where head and rocker plate meet. L side: line up with plastic notch in rear timing cover. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the information. I have replaced quite a few timing belts on these so I am familiar with the timing marks.

The passenger head was the one that was way out of time, the timing mark on that gear was at 9 oclock while the crank and drivers cam gear were at 12.

I know that head does have some play in the can gear but I have never seen one with this much. The timing mark is at 3 oclock on that gear when all of the slack is taken up. I'm afraid the valves are bent and are creating all the excess play.

I plan to take the valve cover off tonight and spin it over to see if the valves open and close like they should.

Thanks again!
 

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2003 BRP 2.5 RS, 2005 Camo 20K
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Thanks for the information. I have replaced quite a few timing belts on these so I am familiar with the timing marks.

The passenger head was the one that was way out of time, the timing mark on that gear was at 9 oclock while the crank and drivers cam gear were at 12.

I know that head does have some play in the can gear but I have never seen one with this much. The timing mark is at 3 oclock on that gear when all of the slack is taken up. I'm afraid the valves are bent and are creating all the excess play.

I plan to take the valve cover off tonight and spin it over to see if the valves open and close like they should.

Thanks again!
NP bud! GL! i always check timing without pulling pin and then again with pin pulled. I go through 6 rotations of crank=3 complete cycles. if marks line up, good to go!
 

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00'RS/02' WRX stgEleventy
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2 teeth is the amount of jump you can have before colliding with valves. 90 degrees??? eeek! Passenger (R) side cam gear WILL have play in it and you can set R side without holding it. Driver side (L) there IS valve spring tension and you will need to hold that pulley in place while you slip on belt. Make sure you are timing to crank sprocket LINE. NOT arrow! Also make sure all cam cogs line up. R side: cam lines up where head and rocker plate meet. L side: line up with plastic notch in rear timing cover. :)
What happens if you line up on the arrow?

Very curious here.. always second guessing myself..

Sent from an other planet (Tapatalk)
 

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What happens if you line up on the arrow?

Very curious here.. always second guessing myself..

Sent from an other planet (Tapatalk)
if you line up arrow at 12oclock and cams are at their respective marks, i can only guess serious damage. Ive never done it or seen it happen and fired up. When arrow is aligned with mark on crank, Pistons 1 and 2 IIRC are at TDC. If you recall, Left side cam is under tension when nearing its mark. with the piston at TDC and you putting tension on cams (essentially opening valves) all you will end up is with a shot motor. arrow is used for valve adjustment when the valves are at rest and measurements can be taken :banana:
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Just an update on this. The exhaust valves on the passenger side head are definitely bent.

I took the valve cover off and rotated the cam gear and checked the valve lash. Both exhaust valves do not close so that head needs to come off.

I'm hoping I can removed that head by just raising the engine and not separating from the trans? Anyone ever try this before?

Also of note, the belt tensioner was bad and is the guilty part here. It was new when I replaced everything 7k ago. Another defective after market part that causes severe damage. :mad:
 

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2001 Impreza 2.5RS Sedan
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Which brand belt tensioner? I had one (I think Dayco) that didn't keep the belt tight enough and the back of the belt was shaved by the belt guide and was worn most of the way through with a crack halfway through the belt. I just happened upon it 20k after install when I pulled the engine for head gaskets... No telling how much longer it would have gone (not far) before screwing up my poor engine. Went with an OEM timing belt and tensioner after that... (that left my wallet bleeding)
 

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"Went with an OEM timing belt and tensioner after that... (that left my wallet bleeding)" and the brain worriless for the next 100K miles, I'll take that over the bleeding anyday.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Which brand belt tensioner? I had one (I think Dayco) that didn't keep the belt tight enough and the back of the belt was shaved by the belt guide and was worn most of the way through with a crack halfway through the belt. I just happened upon it 20k after install when I pulled the engine for head gaskets... No telling how much longer it would have gone (not far) before screwing up my poor engine. Went with an OEM timing belt and tensioner after that... (that left my wallet bleeding)

Mine was also a Dayco and I noticed the top of the belt was shaved thin too. Going to spend the extra $$ and get OEM...
 

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2003 BRP 2.5 RS, 2005 Camo 20K
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Mine was also a Dayco and I noticed the top of the belt was shaved thin too. Going to spend the extra $$ and get OEM...
Deff go with OEM. Even Gates timing belt kit MINUS water pump will be just fine (SOME have had issues with idlers, but not like Dayco) Gates water pumps are known to leak. A) bolt towers arent machines completely flat and B) gaskets are crap compared to OEM metal gaskets.

As far as removing heads with block still in car, yes it possible. Yes, you will have to life engine a bit to remove heads. but be careful of the speedometer sensor at front right of trans bell housing. they break easy. Also, headbolts WILL NOT COME OUT with the engine resting on crossmember. even with engine lifted, IIRC, headbolts came out with heads. Its possible, but if you have a hoist, removing entire block is a lot easier. Especially when you get to those lash adjustments...guys who have sausages as fingers HATE this. lol GL bud!
 

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2001 Impreza 2.5RS Sedan
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Mine was also a Dayco and I noticed the top of the belt was shaved thin too. Going to spend the extra $$ and get OEM...
Good idea, as much at it hurt the pocket book; it's worth the piece of mind and future savings of it not happening again...
 
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