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05 STi WannaBE
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Discussion Starter #121 (Edited)
Brakes anyone?

Parts to be installed from KNS brakes: DBA standard slotted rotors, Hawk brake pads

Here we go:

Pick a nice day



and...



Place a rag over the brake reserve just incase of an overflow



There are 2x14mm bolts holding the brake caliper to the caliper bracket. I hosed every bolt down liberally with BP-Blaster. This will be your best friend and help you get those rusted parts off quick.



Secure the brake caliper so that the brake lines dont stress. I just used some wire and tied it to my springs.



Now its time to remove the brake caliper bracket. Its secured using 2x17mm bolts. By now the PB-Blaster has worked its way through all of the rust/dirt and it should be easy to take off. You might want to get a rubber mallet like I did to give the wrench and little tap to persuade the stuck bolt.







Get your mallet out and start banging away at the old rotor. Its gonna take some hammering away to get these puppies off. Take your time and rotate the rotor as your tapping it. Soon it will slowly come off.



Yay! Its off! Now spray the hub with some more Blaster and start scrubbing the rust off. Doing this will insure that the new rotors have a fresh surface to lay against. I used a brass/copper wire brush and then hosed it all down with some brake parts cleaner.





After its all cleaned off like this:



Start cleaning the rest of the brake parts like the calipers, brackets, and shims. Again I only used PB-Blaster and the wire brush with a hosing down at the end with the brake cleaner.



Now the fun begins: Gather up your newly purchased items and install.



The rotor should just slide in like butter.



Install the rotor bracket using the 2x17mm bolts. I also used the medium strength LockTite for a little assurance.



Before installing the new brake pads, apply some brake quiet glue to the backing surface. Then install the pads.





Now with the new rotors and pads installed, its gonna be a PITA to get the calipers back on without somehow compressing the POTS in to make more room. Luckily I have some big ass ViseGrips to the rescue.



Push each piston in a little at a time until there both in all the way. This is the point were the rag up at the brake fluid resevour will save you as some fluid might come out.





With the pistons set all the way back, slide the caliper back on to the pads and the bracket.



Place some more medium strength LockTite on the 2x14mm bolts and screw them back into the caliper.







Reinstall your rims and tires so that everything is nice and bolted up and your ready to break in your brakes.

Heres the pad break in method according to HAWK:

Brake Bedding Procedure:
1. After installing new brake pads, make 6 to 10 stops from approximately 30-35 mph applying moderate pressure.
2. Make an additional 2 to 3 hard stops from approximately 40 to 45 mph.
3. Do not drag brakes!
4. During the braking cycles do not come all the way to a complete stop.
5. Allow 15 minutes for the brake system to cool down.
6. Your new pads are ready!


After using the newly installed front rotors and pads, I have to say that Im very impressed. My brake rotors have never been replaced before and I have only bought cheapo pads from the local auto store. The combination of the DBA slotted rotors and the HAWK pads makes a world of difference.

I would personally like to thank Ken over at KNS Brakes for recomending the rotors and just having the best customer service around. I would also like to thank Bart at OAKOS Automotive for understanding my stupidity and offering a quick solution.
 

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The Silverback Mod
05 Black OBS
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8,896 Posts
Dude! Great write up! They must feel great :-D
Doing all four of mine tomorrow! Rotors and pads went 40k+ miles... Yes, I use them hard.
 

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05 STi WannaBE
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Discussion Starter #124
Thanks. It feels a world of difference. My next project (which Ive been putting off way too long) will be installing the SS Brake lines that have been sitting under my bed for a couple of months now.



On a side note, I finished the brakes just in time today before it started to rain.



 

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05 STi WannaBE
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Discussion Starter #127 (Edited)
Ever seen someone uninstall uprades and put a car back to stock form? Well here ya go. (too many photos, but I will add captions later)






































































































































 

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aka RoxyTheImpreza
SGM 2006 Impreza 2.5i
Joined
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459 Posts
It's my car :D yea everything that came off the car is for sale... (besides the axel back and short shifter) but the bushings, group n transmission mount, track pipe, headers are for sale...

oh yea, going back to stock because I am going to be looking at purchasing a new forester when I get done with basic training.... looking for more of a family car/something a bit bigger...
 

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Discussion Starter #133 (Edited)
Kartboy short shifter

Installing the Kartboy short shifter.

Gather up everything and place in a towel on the passenger seat.



Start removing the center console. Take out the cigarette tray/coil holder and set it aside.




Rotate the shift knob off of the stock linkage and pull the boot up all the way. Snap out the surrounding console piece.





Make sure to disconnect the electrical connection for the cigarette lighter. Pull the whole unit out.





Now get you 2x12mm wrenches and start unbolting the shifter from the linkage.



Once everything is unscrewed just pull out the shifter by rotating it backwards to get some leverage and give it a good push down and backward. It should pop out smoothly.









Here is a comparison of the Karboy Shifter (left) and the oem (right).



Now get the socket all greased up and ready to go for the new shifter.









…and the shifter ball too.





Don’t forget to grease the the screw.



Once everything is all lubed up, place the shifter back into the socket and turn it sideways so that it doesnt connect to the linkage.





Get your mallet and give it one good whack dead center. It should snap back into the socket.







Now you can rotate the shifter back into place and reattach the linkage.







Before screwing the shifter back, use some ant seize compound and rub some on the threads. This will make the shift knob easier to take off in the future.





Wipe everything down and put everything back in place.



My overall experience with the Kartboy shifter is that it does significantly reduce the throw of the shifts and makes the shifting feel more precise. << Thanks to Ben (RoxyTheImpreza) for the shifter.
 

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Discussion Starter #135 (Edited)
I finally got my fog light cover in and I installed it to help out with bringing a cooler air charge to my engine. Take a look:



















I’m kind of digging the un-symmetrical look. Im gonna add a screen of some sorts later on to help keep debry out.
 

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05 STi WannaBE
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Discussion Starter #136 (Edited)
I also hooked up the Stromung ghetto style. I dont have the center pipe as of yet but I wanted to hear what it sounded like before I commit to getting one. In short, it sounds amazingly deep and agressive. Its a little raspy but nothing near compared to my Injen SES system. As soon as I went HFC the raspyness started.









Injen SES system with no resonator.





 

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Discussion Starter #137 (Edited)
Heres a little treat. No muffler, just header and HFC. Sounds like a motorcycle. Im thinking of maybe getting an exhaust cutout for the drag strip.

 

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Discussion Starter #140
Got the Stromung installed (custom center pipe). I love the sound even with no resonator. I love the low-pro look more than anything.



 
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