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Registered
1999 2.5RS
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672 Posts
I used my stock RS 5spd x member and a GD Group N 5 spd trans mount.

Just stay away from using an L 5spd x member, they're too flimsy in construction.
 

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16 Posts
Just finished a complete STI swap with R180, 114 hubs/knuckles, RCE suspension, and brembos. The shop was doing a baseline alignment and completely pulled the rear axles apart! The tire is past the outside fender well. Does anyone know what I missed? The rear wheels should be much further in the fender well. I think they are a good inch or two off. Here is a link with some helpful pics.
Rearend
 

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Registered
95/99 Brighton STi
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2,945 Posts
Just finished a complete STI swap with R180, 114 hubs/knuckles, RCE suspension, and brembos. The shop was doing a baseline alignment and completely pulled the rear axles apart! The tire is past the outside fender well. Does anyone know what I missed? The rear wheels should be much further in the fender well. I think they are a good inch or two off. Here is a link with some helpful pics.
Rearend
Wow, looks like some newb tried to fix excessive negative camber with the lateral links instead of the camber plate, yikes. This is why I do my own alignments... and don't let anyone touch my car.

If you don't have rear camber plates, you could use camber bolts.
 

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Registered
'99 RBP RSTi Coupe
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203 Posts
I'm trying to get an idea of what a full STI driveline swap will cost. Any ideas?


Unfortunately this answer varies greatly. Are you buying an entire donor car? Are you buying just the needed components to swap it? Are you doing everything down to the brembos? What year are you gonna swap to? Are you doing your own work? Are you going from auto to manual or already manual? Add the cost of fluids and that varies depending on the brand and quality same with a clutch and flywheel. If you are buying a loose trans and components you dont know if the trans is in good condition internally and may have repair costs to add on. Add cash on top of it for the misc stuff you don't realize you need until it's not there.

It's a fun game to play :)
 

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V5 STi Type-R
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20 Posts
Awesome info.

My shop just finished swapping an 05 STi 6 speed with new Exedy clutch into my V5. Now the clutch pedal is really light (~50% lighter than my 05 STi with the same clutch and 07 6speed). They reused the V5 master and slave because they said RHD mc/sc looks different. Since OP lists 6 speed slave cylinder as a requirement, I'm thinking that may be cause of light clutch pedal. Could someone confirm this and explain why 6 speed MC is not required?
 

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Registered
1999 2.5RS
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672 Posts
My buddy hooked me up with this jdm 6spd shift knob for the holidays :) Looks way better than the usdm. Can anyone help me ID which year/model this came from cause I don't actually know.

EDIT: btw, post count as of now = 666 :devil: lol

EDIT CON'T: not a jdm shift know, looks like 04 STI according to Chuck below.

 

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Registered
1995 Impreza L with boost.
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176 Posts
Is anyone in here running a single piece drive shaft? Been running an auto shaft in previous iterations, but want to make the jump to a 1 piece and ditch some weight/rotational mass while the drivetrain is out.

Wondering if someone running a single piece can measure the distance of their driveshaft, or perhaps someone with the drivetrain installed could just measure the distance from trans to diff.

My trans isn’t installed right now, and don’t want to just take measurements off the auto driveshaft as i want more accuracy in proper fit and finish.

Figured I’d ask here first. Thanks.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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needs more cowbell
95L, 07 2.5i, R6
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9,289 Posts
My 95 has a 2011 6mt and rear diff. I am running the DSS carbon one piece and the correct length is their longer one. They have two versions and the version for the 93-01 is about a half to three quarter inch longer than their 02-07 version. You don't want extra yoke exposed, and you want as much spline engagement as possible. I accidentally bought the gd version and it fit but the amount of yoke showing made me ask them. They told me "It's only about half an inch...no big deal", but I sold it to a gd owner and bought the correct one. Half inch can be a really big deal if you shear it off during a launch.

Their driveshaft also doesn't have the protective cup over the yoke / which is crap, but I am considering removing one from an oem and using some good epoxy to bond it. The dimensions where it goes look the same, and it's not a stressed part so the epoxy will hold fine.

Sorry I don't have the exact length. Just mentioning in case you get into that situation, and for a free bump.
 

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Registered
1995 Impreza L with boost.
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176 Posts
I hear you. I know the auto driveshaft “fits” which is what I’ve been using, but I’ve got a big boy motor and upgraded drivetrain stiffening and it only seems fitting to match with a proper driveshaft. Some local guys have had good results from Shaftmasters In their Supra’s and they’ll build me whatever i want after reaching out to them much less than what a carbon shaft will cost. I also don’t ball that hard, nor will i see anywhere near the speeds/HP that would require anything more. Weight difference is marginal, but i want to avoid hammering in my trans tunnel to make a 3” off the shelf shaft work.

Side note, i got my measurements from someone in a FB group. He measured 54.5” from u-joint flange to yoke hole. Going to see if i can score some additional measurements just to see if that’s what everyone else is doing.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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needs more cowbell
95L, 07 2.5i, R6
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9,289 Posts
I hear you. I know the auto driveshaft “fits” which is what I’ve been using, but I’ve got a big boy motor and upgraded drivetrain stiffening and it only seems fitting to match with a proper driveshaft. Some local guys have had good results from Shaftmasters In their Supra’s and they’ll build me whatever i want after reaching out to them much less than what a carbon shaft will cost. I also don’t ball that hard, nor will i see anywhere near the speeds/HP that would require anything more. Weight difference is marginal, but i want to avoid hammering in my trans tunnel to make a 3” off the shelf shaft work.

Side note, i got my measurements from someone in a FB group. He measured 54.5” from u-joint flange to yoke hole. Going to see if i can score some additional measurements just to see if that’s what everyone else is doing.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
If you're running a "big boy" motor and want a "proper driveshaft", you need a "big boy" driveshaft. (Carbon fiber) The carbon shafts require zero tunnel modding and clear the exhaust better. They also weigh a lot less. Using a heavier single piece steel driveshaft will work, but it will need to be thicker to keep the size smaller and remain stiff enough not to flop around. An aluminum driveshaft will need to be even larger to keep proper stiffness. Either way, several places will make you a driveshaft to suit what you want.
 

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Premium Member
2001 SRP 2.5RS/RA/SOHC Monster
Joined
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2,795 Posts
If you're running a "big boy" motor and want a "proper driveshaft", you need a "big boy" driveshaft. (Carbon fiber) The carbon shafts require zero tunnel modding and clear the exhaust better. They also weigh a lot less. Using a heavier single piece steel driveshaft will work, but it will need to be thicker to keep the size smaller and remain stiff enough not to flop around. An aluminum driveshaft will need to be even larger to keep proper stiffness. Either way, several places will make you a driveshaft to suit what you want.
I'm in the market for a quality single piece driveshaft. 4-500 wheel, tunnel mods are no concern and I'm gearing limited to ~165mph . Is the carbon fiber unit really worth the extra $500?
 

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needs more cowbell
95L, 07 2.5i, R6
Joined
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9,289 Posts
I'm in the market for a quality single piece driveshaft. 4-500 wheel, tunnel mods are no concern and I'm gearing limited to ~165mph . Is the carbon fiber unit really worth the extra $500?
It eliminates some slack, which makes it feel a little more solid/direct when accelerating. I haven't driven it for a while now, since I'm putting in another engine and doing some fueling upgrades.

It's worth it to me, just knowing what's going on with the two piece shaft and squishy carrier bearing is enough.
 

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1 Posts
So I have a 2001 RS. USDM ej205 with stock RS 5speed and diff. I have 2004 sti brembos on, but stock hubs/knuckles.

I am purchasing a 2004 STI swap. It comes with the transmission, kartboy short shiter/linkage/shift knob, driveshaft, r180 diff, and all 4 axles. ($3k USD, components have about 40k miles)

As of right now, please correct me if im wrong, I know i will need a 2004 STI flywheel, clutch, pressure plate, slave cylinder, and rear hubs. I suppose the hubs means i need the whole rear hub/knuckle assembly. My front hubs/axles will be retained. Will my coil overs directly bolt up to the new rear hubs just fine? Is there anything I am missing?

I have the rear kartboy adapters for the brakes, I suppose i will no longer need those with the sti rear hubs as well.

I do apologize if I'm being redundant.
 
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