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Discussion starter · #41 ·
my only suggestion is to work on your fitment of parts in some cases.

Example your brake resovoirs watch out for the way they are ground. From the photo it looks like part has a outside bevel while the rest is flat. It can change the way the weld will look and even the way it penetrates.

This isnt me trying to be negative. But just something to help you grow as its something i have now become ocd about. Fitment is part of the key to good consistent welds.
I appreciate the advice. One of my biggest issues is being able to recreate the same weld along the same piece time and time again. I will have to pay more attention to those details.

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Recreating a weld piece to piece can be hard. I'm not perfect by a long shot. However the rule of : do to all others what you do to the first one applies. It's the best and easiest way to control get similar/indentical pieces. All pieces should be cut the same, ground the same, beveled the same, prepped and cleaned the same etc etc. Gas should be the same, position and torch angle, sharp clean tungsten for steels, and clean filler as well. No 2 pieces of metal are perfect and can easily weld differently. However those are easy ways to to aid you
 
Depending on the material mix, I would use some fender washers for a more even shape, drill hole to size required.

I'll try to upload my temp lateral links I made.

PS. Check your settings!! I forgot to check and welded 3/4 bar to a .120 wall tube with only 6 volts hehe.

Glad they are temp.
 
Discussion starter · #44 ·
Recreating a weld piece to piece can be hard. I'm not perfect by a long shot. However the rule of : do to all others what you do to the first one applies. It's the best and easiest way to control get similar/indentical pieces. All pieces should be cut the same, ground the same, beveled the same, prepped and cleaned the same etc etc. Gas should be the same, position and torch angle, sharp clean tungsten for steels, and clean filler as well. No 2 pieces of metal are perfect and can easily weld differently. However those are easy ways to to aid you
I will keep that in mind the next project I take on. It is nice to have an outside perspective from someone in the field.


Depending on the material mix, I would use some fender washers for a more even shape, drill hole to size required.

I'll try to upload my temp lateral links I made.

PS. Check your settings!! I forgot to check and welded 3/4 bar to a .120 wall tube with only 6 volts hehe.

Glad they are temp.
3/4 bar lateral links? For what, a monster truck?
 
i made an exhaust like a rally car along the lines of the Launsport P555 but for like $200 instead of $900 :lol:

I made some dimpled gussets for hangers and they came out good, it looks super kewl and sounds like a rally car. Cold start is a bit louder, but warm idle isnt bad it has a throaty sound. Cruising is almost no drone, and WOT is really loud :lol: Ill take some video when it stops raining, im going to have to sell the car and build an Ark at this rate.





 
Discussion starter · #48 · (Edited)
The exhaust looks stellar. I really like the gusset incorporated with the hanger.

I won't have time to whip up a featured article this month. I am currently in the process in changing jobs and locations and have no time. If someone would like to have there own featured shoot me text. 603-991-5111
 
Built a diffuser this week.

Start with cardboard and get it close while taking some mental notes



trace templates to paper



scan big ass paper with big as scanner



insert into autocad and trace template while applying mental notes



From CAD it goes to plasma table. I chose 18ga. Light but thick enough to mig. Galvanized for some extra protection and we have an abundance of it at work



Then I just start fitting it together, the rolled part was tricky. I ended up standing it up on end to hold it to the line and tack it



After a while, and a sore throat from galvanized welds smoke, you end up with this.







And I had some nice urethane adhesive cock laying around so I added some security and niftyness to the weld areas




Painted with undercoating to minimize resonance



And mounted. Just waiting on flat bridge peice from floor pans to diffuser under gas tank.





Finished off with pan connecting floor pans to diffuser



 
Terry, grind the coating off on both sides where you are going to weld and wear a respirator. Enough exposure to the fumes will get you sick enough to have a similar feeling to mustard gas poisoning. Same thing for welding cadium or zinc plates stuff. Essentially creates phosphate poisoning
 
Discussion starter · #53 ·
A touch to add to galvanized poisoning, if you do happen to get it I have widely heard drinking copious amounts of whole milk and smoking a cigarette/joint will clear you out faster. I've never read any scientific back studies of such but that is the consensus among the weld forums etc.

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Discussion starter · #56 ·
It's best to avoid it all together. It's as bad as not wearing your hood in my opinion
I agree completely but for those home brew guys that ignore PPE to one degree or another could atleast have a lifeline if they end up needing it.

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Yep. A friend of mine wiped a core support down with brake clean and started mig welding and whatever the fumes made caused him to start having seizures that night and its effected his life ever since.
 
Yep. A friend of mine wiped a core support down with brake clean and started mig welding and whatever the fumes made caused him to start having seizures that night and its effected his life ever since.
Chlorinated Brake Clean - It works so much better but it's super dangerous. It's better to play it safe and get non chlorinated brake clean.

When the Chlorinated stuff burns it creates chlorine gas. Your friend is lucky to be alive, really nasty stuff.
 
Chlorinated Brake Clean - It works so much better but it's super dangerous. It's better to play it safe and get non chlorinated brake clean.

When the Chlorinated stuff burns it creates chlorine gas. Your friend is lucky to be alive, really nasty stuff.
Brake clean should never be used to clean parts for welding. Acetone is generallythe way to go or lacquer thinner.

That he is but forever effected. I take the safety much more serious now. Right down to skin protection from flash burn
 
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