[wilddave1]

Ok, I think it would be good to have a sticky'd thread about the in's and out's of turbo 2.5's. I have a 99 and I am wanting to run about 5 psi. From what I have read 5 psi is a good number for everyday driving and reliability. Say for instance I buy the kit from Larry at imprezars.com. What else other than the turbo kit do I need to drive my car to work everyday and not destroy anything?
What type of engine management is required for low boost applications? What are our options for low boost, low cost systems? What is the minimum we can get bye with but still be safe?
imprezars.com

 

[HondaH8er]

Hey, good idea on this thread! I have a question about the kit I'm putting together with a stock WRX turbo, subachads up/down pipes, and a Saab 900 IC. Would the stock WRX blow-off valve work with this application?

 

[Graham]

The BOV you will probably want to use with your kit is a standard BOSCH Valve, which you can buy from a Porsche dealer for around $30-40. It works and its cheap, but its not a GReddy or HKS, just remember that.

5 psi is awesome for everyday, you really shouldn't have any problems. One thing you must have is timing control. I will say it again, timing control. This can be in the form of a J&S Safegaurd or S-ITC (Ignition timing controller) which both retard timing. The RS runs lots of advance, so this becomes necessary to prevent detonation and pinging.

Also, a clutch is a good idea for 5 psi. Your options range from an ACT (I use this one) to a Clutchmasters Stage III. Both are good but more care needs to be taken to the tranny with an uprated plate and power, when shifting.

The kit you want is perfect. I would have bought that kit if I hadn't done a custom setup: www.pbase.com/Graham222 (this is my car).

With 5 psi, you will need a S-AFC, which will add fuel for the extra air your putting into the engine. If it was a 2000+ car, you would need a RRFPR to compensate for fuel. You will also need an a new exhaust. Something 2.5 inches or greater would be perfect. A custom exhaust might be your best option.

Graham

 

[HondaH8er]

OK, I'm geting a fuel pump, and already have a RRFPR on the way (Vortech 6:1 FMU). Would I really still need an S-AFC if I have that stuff? I am also planning on getting a proECM for the voltage clamp, and other stuff it does. Will that help with the timing, or do I still need something else? And I am planning on keeping my Stromung muffler, and getting something bigger with a high-flow cat to go from the downpipe to the muffler, probably 2.5". As for the clutch, I think I'll let the stock one take the brunt of me getting used to the turbo, and then upgrade when it's worn out.

 

[Graham]

If you have the RRFPR then don't mind the S-AFC, but it could be used to fine-tune.

The voltage clamp is only necessary for 2000 and 2001 RS's, not 99's. The VC will not do anything to timing, but the ProECM will learn a fuel/timing map sutuible for turbo.

The clutch you should be fine with I guess, just don't dump it or it WILL let go.

 

[HondaH8er]

If you have the RRFPR then don't mind the S-AFC, but it could be used to fine-tune.

The voltage clamp is only necessary for 2000 and 2001 RS's, not 99's. The VC will not do anything to timing, but the ProECM will learn a fuel/timing map sutuible for turbo.

The clutch you should be fine with I guess, just don't dump it or it WILL let go.

I have a 2k, so I need the voltage clamp. And I'm glad to hear the S-AFC isn't necessary, especially since my ECM will learn around it. As for the clutch, the stock stuff is shit anyways, so I'll kill it off, and then get a lightened flywheel (~11lb) with a good Clutchmaster clutch. Thinking of trying to get a Legacy turbo mainshaft, too, but I don't really want to crack the tranny open. Would really like those sychro'd Chalek gears that Larry sells, but $2k+ for gears is a touch out of my budget, I'm afraid.

 

[FuJi K]

sorry to bug you guys but what are you guys refering to when you guys say RRFPR?

 

[Graham]

Alright then you will need the VC. Don't mind the S-AFC, especially since you have a 2000. The RRFPR will work fine, just make sure you have some sort of timing control, to retard some of your timing when your on boost, i.e. S-ITC or J&S Knock Sensor.

The clutch will go, so have some money for a new one on hand.


Fuji K, RRFPR stand for Rising Rate Fuel Pressure Regulator, which is a fuel additive device that feeds more pressure through your injectors per pound of boost being run. If I run 5 psi, I would want around 6 or 7 PSI EXTRA fuel pressure. They have ratios set, like a 6:1 or 8:1. The 6:1 would add 6 psi of fuel pressure for each pound of boost. Remember, more pressure means more volume.

Graham

 

[FRAKK's2.5]

RRFPR Rising rate Fuel Preassure regulator

 

[FRAKK's2.5]

Hey! great thread man! so I'm considering buying a turbo kit for my 01 Rs so I can spank anything on the road:happynow: I'm sort of skeptical about the whole thing...for those of you who have an RS-T:
-How reliable is the EJ25 with an after market forced induction?
-What are the major problems that you as an RS-T owner have encountered?
...I'd love to slap on a turbo on my baby but I just don't want it to f..up everytime since I know absolutly nothing about cars...
Thanks

P.S. I'm thinking of going with the turbo kit from forced air technologies ( I haven't heard anything bad from them yet)
www.forcedairtech.com

 

[AaronB]

I have a Forced Air Technologies Stage III kit for sale with lots of upgrades if you are interested Frakk

I have a post up for sale on the i-club under my user name there AaronB.

 

[Graham]

Why are you selling the kit?


Graham

 

[AaronB]

I am going to be getting a different car, so the RS is back to stock.

 

[FRAKK's2.5]

I am going to be getting a different car, so the RS is back to stock.

How realiable was your RS (really) how much boost were you running before (if any) major unexpected work you had done to your car?
Frank

 

[AZ-GT]

I have a FATT stage II kit on my car. I've had two different RS's with FAT kits and have been very happy with their stuff. Well engineered and very complete kits. The owner Robert is always willing to talk so just give em a call.

Standard Disclaimer: Satisfied Customer, YMMV

 

[AaronB]

How realiable was your RS (really) how much boost were you running before (if any) major unexpected work you had done to your car?
Frank

IMHO the J & S safeguard is the key to making reliable horsepower without a new ECU. Before I put the safeguard on I blew up my motor when messing around with a manual boost controller. After it was rebuilt, and I switched to the kit I am selling I added the J & S Ultra safeguard. Since then I never had a single ping on the motor. I ran 9 psi during the winter and 6 during the AZ summer. I consider it mandatory for anyone wanting reliablity without stepping up to an aftermarket ECU.

I am including the safeguard with my turbo setup, along with some other upgrades over the standard kit.

I had two different FAT setups as well and was happy with both, as well.

Thanks,

Aaron

 

[HondaH8er]

Well, guess the cost of my "budget" system is going to go up some then, since I don't want to blow my engine up. So to save money on other parts, would just getting a Split Second VC2 voltage clamp be adequate, or should I still look at getting a proECM, since it has a voltage clamp also? Right now, I'm leaning towards the SS VC2, since the turbo will give more power than the proECM ever could.

 

[Scueby2.5]

Hear a lot about the forced air tech turbo, I'm just going to butt in and ask a couple questions about the
stage 2 turbo kit made by Ludespeed if it doesn't bother anyone.

I ordered the stage 2 turbo kit with a J&S Safeguard since Tom suggested it. It should be in in a couple of days by now. I have a 2001 2.5 RS. As of right now the engine is completly stock. Can anyone tell me anything I need to know before putting on this turbo, and what I should do after putting on this kit? What should I worry about and be careful of? Is this kit missing anything else that I will need to have so my car is OK? Is this kit reliable? Since it is cheaper than the forced induction kit I just need to make sure that it will still run as good. Also I will have to be running stock exhaust and clutch after it is on. Is it OK to run this turbo on this car with stock exhaust for a couple days? Even if it means driving it at very low RPMs. Because I need a couple more days to make some money for clutch and exhaust.

Please anyone give me all the info I am going to need so I won't mess up my car after putting on this turbo kit. Thank you.

 

[HondaH8er]

From what I've heard, LudeSpeed makes a very nice kit, so I'm sure you'll be happy with it. As for the stock exhaust, I don't think you will damage anything by running with it, there will just be enough backpressure that the turbo won't spol up as quickly. But besides not getting all the benefit of the turbo, you shouldn't need to worry about hurting anything.

 

[AaronB]

Well, guess the cost of my "budget" system is going to go up some then, since I don't want to blow my engine up. So to save money on other parts, would just getting a Split Second VC2 voltage clamp be adequate, or should I still look at getting a proECM, since it has a voltage clamp also? Right now, I'm leaning towards the SS VC2, since the turbo will give more power than the proECM ever could.

FYI
The J & S Ultra Safeguard has a built in adjustable voltage clamp, so those of you with 2000 and 2001 cars wouldn't need a Split Sec clamp or a Torque Chip II to limit the MAP voltage.