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Discussion Starter #62
Fuel pump in and I'm back to running. The Aeromotive Stealth 11542 pump fits right in without any modifications - just solder and heat shrink the leads to the stock harness.

Now that I've removed the fuel pump 4 times, I've found a couple tricks for fitting the STI fuel slosh box:
- Don't drill it into the frame for the fuel pump like it is on the STI - it needs to move a little
- Run the fuel temp sensor wiring in between the frame and support for the slosh box
- Connect the fuel temp sensor but remove the fuel level sensor while putting the box back in. This really helps with fitting the float arm without bending it and is required for fitting the slosh box in the fuel tank's baffling. You can use a 7mm socket to remove it, just keep an extendable magnet handy
- *Always* replace the gasket for the pump assembly to the tank. This is considered a 1-time use gasket and is worth the peace of mind
- Ideally, replace any fuel lines from the return and pump output









(also don't break a connection to the fuel temp sensor or it'll report -40f and throw a P0183)

-TC
 

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Discussion Starter #63 (Edited)
Well we’re coming up on that time of year again. For the last 2 years I’ve dedicated a week straight to working on the car while my company shuts down for Thanksgiving. This year looks to be the same.

This year will be to fix up the following:
- Complete re-do of the exhaust (while staying CA compliant... probably) [JDM Up-pipe, JDM down pipe (with O2 sensor welded in), JDM mid-pipe and muffler]
- Cobb 3 port boost control solenoid
- 3mm Phenolic spacer (mainly for GR intercooler clearance)
- Coilovers
- Sway bars
- Clutch assembly (mainly because of a bad pressure plate)
- Adding tone rings to front axles
- Replace airbag control module
- Fix fuel sending unit
- Maybe get the AC recharged
- Alignment
- Corner balance

This will fix these major issues I’ve been dealing with for far too long:
- Grinding on deceleration, no load, in gear - Sounds like it’s the pressure plate and throw out bearing.
- ABS doesn’t work - My own notes show why - I’m using ‘99 JDM axles which don’t have tone rings on them. If $25 fixes my ABS then I’ll be ecstatic!
- Airbags are dead - A heat wave came this year and likely caused the ECM to die. Should be as simple as swapping in a new one and actually running a heat shield where the cats are :p
- Clunking suspension - Typical JDM V5 inverted strut clunk.
- Serious lag from VF28 - I come on full boost at 4K RPMs, and even with a quality tune, that means there’s weird jerking issues in the 3-4K RPM range where the ECU is looking for boost that isn’t there. Obviously this will be backed with a re-tune.
- Incorrect fuel readings - With removing the fuel pump assembly ~5 times in the last 6 months, the mounts for the fuel level sending unit are weak and the jerkiness of 3-4K RPM has caused the reading to go off.... again. I’m going to find a solution to keep that sucker in there tight.
- AC Recharge - This isn’t needed, per say, but when I had it vacuumed and filled before the compressor wasn’t engaging due to one loose connector. There’s still a tiny bit of air in the system, and a complete vacuum and re-fill should make it more efficient for next summer.

Assuming this all gets wrapped up then I can *finally* move on to interior and paint. I’m growing very tired of the two-tone body...

-TC
 

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99'RS w/EJ205, 16'340i 13'Volt
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FYI the compass computer is regular DIN size. I moved mine to below my radio above the ashtray. good luck with all the upcoming work
 

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Discussion Starter #66 (Edited)
Which model koyo radiator is that? There's enough clearance while using wrx fans?
I forget the exact number, but it's meant for a 2002 USDM WRX. I specifically wanted one without the reservoir cap as the rest of the cooling system was set to match that (not that it matters much).

FYI the compass computer is regular DIN size. I moved mine to below my radio above the ashtray. good luck with all the upcoming work
Thanks! I plan on using a double din with backup camera and carplay support, so it's going to stay where it is. Kind of a nice reminder of the age of this thing. I'll be using (2) of the gauges in a gauge bezel surround, though I'm aware they don't fit all that well...

-TC
 

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Discussion Starter #67 (Edited)
I had planned to add this update once I get my next tune, but unfortunately that won't happen for an additional 3 weeks due to the holiday shutdown.

I spent most of October gathering parts to prep for install over my company's Thanksgiving shutdown.

- ST Suspensions XT HTA
- Cusco rear camber plates
- JDM STI pink lateral links
- JDM STI pink trailing arms
- JDM STI front end links
- JDM V5 carbon front strut tower bar
- Whiteline 22mm front sway bar
- Whiteline 24mm rear sway bar
- Whiteline rear HD mounts
- ACT Streetlight flywheel
- ACT HD clutch assembly
- Replacement SRS control module
- ABS Tone rings for front axles (JDM axles)

Everything was purchased new with a couple packages coming straight from Subaru Japan.

To prep for all the work on the horizon I started off the first day of my Thanksgiving shutdown with a fun project. An amuse bouche, if you will.

Here's 3" Morimoto stage IV retrofits with E55 shrouds.







The install on the rest of the parts went fine, except the EGT. I learned the hard way how the stock EGT sensor terminates. Another reducer to 1/8" NPT and a no-name amazon EGT sensor and I had something that works, kind of.

I'm kind of insane. See, I want the SMOG tech to plug into my OBDII port and see absolutely 0 codes killed from when I was passed for my BAR. To do this, EGT needs to stay installed and needs to report a value, even though it no longer serves any purpose and completely messed up my schedule. I'm having issues with the new one reporting any value other than 2084f, but at least there's a value.

I'm in need of a tune (JDM exhaust and Cobb EBCS pretty much require it) but otherwise everything's installed and I'm ready to drive. To save time, I'm going to use the string method this weekend to align all 4 corners, and re-install the stock boost control solenoid. I'll take it in for the tune in the new year.















-TC
 

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Discussion Starter #69
I've had good luck with this magnetic camber/caster gauge when doing suspension replacement/repairs. Typically I can get it within spec before it goes to the alignment shop. Worth the money in my opinion.



Amazon.com: Longacre 78260 Caster Camber Gauge: Automotive

I'm lucky, my roommate and his dad race spec E46s. They're going to help me out with this guy:



We've used the same technique to align my drift e30, so hopefully we'll have good luck.

-TC
 

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Discussion Starter #71
Great choice on the rear suspension links.

STi pink sphericals are the way to go :)
Honestly, I blame you for those. I forgot about them being available via Japan Parts, then I read your journal.

We need to sync up once my car is driveable.

-TC
 

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Honestly, I blame you for those. I forgot about them being available via Japan Parts, then I read your journal.

We need to sync up once my car is driveable.

-TC
Haha.

Yeah, I'm sure your car will be up and running soon, mine will actually be going down here shortly for all the mods
 

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Discussion Starter #73 (Edited)
In lieu of a good time to get the car aligned, I got it 98% there using the string method over the weekend. Came out fine enough and I'm able to drive it. Swapped back to the stock boost solenoid so I can feel a little bit better about driving it around without a new tune.







But I found that the whiteline rear endlinks like to hit the fuel filler neck when the rear right strut is compressed. Makes the wheel hop when doing tight left hand circles. This is just due to the lateral links mounts being the JDM version where you'd typically run the JDM ball jointed end links. I'll probably need to make my own as re-installing the JDM ones will require me to drop the mount for them and I can't be bothered now that the alignment is done.

I also found my front right caliper's pistons don't want to retract fully causing them to drag a little bit, the grinding from my transmission is still there (likely bad transfer case or input/output bearing), my headlights are aimed a little bit too high, the replacement EGT sensor only reads two values (384f and 2084f), the clutch slave needs another bleeding, and the replacement airbag ECM still throws a code for high impedance on the front left srs sensor. Due to the newer mounts and actually securing the down pipe to the transmission, it now sounds like a sewing machine inside at idle. Oh, and I threw codes for misfires on cylinders 1, 2, and 3 - but I've had that happen before.

BUT! ABS is back to being fully functional, the brake pedal pressure has increased closer to where I want it, the suspension is fantastic and I'm excited to set it up a bit more to my liking, the turbo seems to spool up much quicker (no actual pulls until the tune is done), the clutch is grippier, I no longer clunk when coming to a stop, and I can actually see ahead of me.

So.... net positive. I think.

-TC
 

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1999 RBP RS
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Not sure how I've missed this project thread! Sub'd to pick through on the days off coming up. Watched the time lapse and I know how tough it is to stay determined to charge batts, load photos and edit without wondering why you are spending nearly as much time on the cam as you are on the car. Vid and car came out great!! Look forward to watching you tie up some of the loose ends. Each task off the ToDo list will help that sh!t eating grin grow. Keep it up!
 

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Discussion Starter #75 (Edited)
Not sure how I've missed this project thread! Sub'd to pick through on the days off coming up. Watched the time lapse and I know how tough it is to stay determined to charge batts, load photos and edit without wondering why you are spending nearly as much time on the cam as you are on the car. Vid and car came out great!! Look forward to watching you tie up some of the loose ends. Each task off the ToDo list will help that sh!t eating grin grow. Keep it up!
Thanks bud!

I cheated on the timelapse - GoPro with external battery, 5 second intervals on the images using the timelapse feature, and 64GB SD cards. It was all captured on one card and I just stitched them together. All I really had to do was charge the external battery pack every night and turn it on in the morning :-D

Here's hoping on the todo list. I told myself I'd fix all mechanical issues before focusing on interior and exterior, but I may need to rethink that.

The headlights are now aimed and the clutch engagement is improving through repeated use / the friction disk breaking in. I think the hard question to answer will be converting to 6 speed or replacing the transmission with another 5 speed 4.44 next year.

-TC
 

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Discussion Starter #76
I've been driving this car since mid December without fault. It's running great.

Tune scheduled for Feb 27-28.

I still need to sort out the rear endlinks. I may go back to JDM sphericals or build some heim joints. I'm currently running front Whiteline links in the rear, but there's a clunk when dropping from a speed bump. Could also be the trunk lid.

-TC
 

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I've been driving this car since mid December without fault. It's running great.

Tune scheduled for Feb 27-28.

I still need to sort out the rear endlinks. I may go back to JDM sphericals or build some heim joints. I'm currently running front Whiteline links in the rear, but there's a clunk when dropping from a speed bump. Could also be the trunk lid.

-TC
Most likely the end links. Recheck the torque on them and when you do, remember you have to torque them at ride height and not with the car jacked up in the air.
 

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Discussion Starter #78 (Edited)
I quintuple checked the rear end for anything being loose and found nothing. Re-torqued the JDM STI end links on the ground. Sound still persists - I'm thinking it's the trunk lid.

Drove up to Tahoe again, about a 500 mile road trip. Not a single issue. Though I did have to replace the fuel pressure regulator the night before. Got a couple snownuts in to make sure it was working correctly.

Just got it tuned again at Mann Engineering (good chatting with ya, onefasazn), now I'm up to 272hp and 239tq (from 232hp and 210tq) - plenty to have fun with. There's far, far less lag, and power comes on very smooth. Seems delicioustuning upped the boost to 20psi. But, now I'm getting some surge when letting off from wot, so I'll need to look into my BPV.

Beyond that I'm getting parts (mainly a brake refresh) together to take the car out to Thunderhill in late March. It'll be nice to finally track this thing.

-TC
 

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Discussion Starter #80 (Edited)
:clap: Beautiful build
Thanks!

I found the clunk - it's the end links. I'm going to get some superpros in there and enlarge every hole to fit the 12mm bolt.

I've also replaced my front speakers with Dayton Classic 6.5" woofers, quite the improvement over my aging Pioneers. Next up are some Tang Bang 6.75" subwoofers in the rear deck, then I'll modify the rear doors and cards to fit 6.5" components in them.

All new pads, rotors, master cylinder brace, and fluid going in this weekend. I bought 2 new sets - one for street and one for track. Hawk DTC60s in the front and blues in the rear with blank rotors and Motul 500.1. Same setup but with Stoptech pads for street. Also doing engine oil, transmission fluid, and diff fluid. All in preparation for Thunderhill on March 26th.



-TC
 
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