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The BETTER way to remove your crank pulley!

197K views 83 replies 48 participants last post by  mike-tracy 
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
I see countless threads where people suggest the "starter bump" method to remove your crank pulley. While sure, this works, it's NOT the best way to do it. And, then your still stuck with correctly torquing it back up. I've mentioned quite a few times, this alternative method, but I'm not sure it's been quite clear how to do it. If you don't have, nor want to spring for the Subaru Specific Tool, you can do this to loosen, and re-torque your crank pulley with ease.

All you need is 2x3/8" short extensions, a long screw driver, and your 22mm socket on a breaker bar. Insert the 2 extensions in two of the small holes in the crank pulley. Wedge the screwdriver between teh extensions and prop the handle on something. I used the alternator pulley. Insert the 22mm, and go to town!!


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So please, no more "starter-bump" sujestions for the crank pulley. There is no way you can convince me it's easier, safer, nor better than this method.

edit: Check out Storms post #9 for what appears to be one of the Factory Methods to do this
http://www.rs25.com/forums/f105/t113885-better-way-remove-your-crank-pulley.html#post1774930
 
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#2 ·
That's great, should save noobies a lot of headaches! I actually busted an alternator many years ago by jamming it..... retarded idea I might add.


Unfortunately, these of us with light weight pulleys are still stuck with using the old belt to the hammer method (works wonders) or jamming something somewhere :)
 
#4 ·
that way kinda works, tho if you arent careful (or if the pulley is REALLY on there as ive had to deal with) you can easily deform the rubber inside the crank pulley and throw it off balance... which obviously is bad. also some of the crank pulleys dont have the rubber in them (couldnt tell you what years or models, but ive seen it) so theres nothing to brace the pieces to.

id say easiest method is with a impact gun, but usually its not possible when the engine is in the car.

the method i would recommend for when its really on there (and standard breaker + holding brake in gear) is with a vice-grip chain vice

pull the belts off obviously then wrap the chain around the pulley and put a extension bar on the rounded handle of the vice grip (or a larger pipe with the end smashed in an oblong to fit over both handles of the vice). then a standard breaker on the crank bolt


<personal story>
the crank pulley on my swap (v3 sti) was so hard to get off we couldnt do it with an impact (engine out of car) or with the method posted in this thread, nor with the chain vicegrip alone. we had to use the chain vicegrip with a 5 foot pipe and then a breaker with a 5 foot cheater on the bolt, 1 person on each pushing towards each other. yes we used liquid wrench every day prior for 3 days too. easily the most frustrating thing ive ever had to do on my swap (moreso than the wiring or the fwd->awd conversion)
 
#8 · (Edited by Moderator)
Dude... did you even read the OP?

I was attempting to present an Option that was NOT the starter-bump method. Plus, the starter-method is only good for removal. It's of no use for getting 130 ft/lbs of torque back into the bolt for installation.

So, some method of locking the crank pulley is still very much needed.
 
#9 ·
This method doesn't work if you don't have a stock crank pulley.

The easiest way I know and am comfortable doing it is by sticking a medium screwdriver in the HOLE PROVIDED in the trans bellhousing. It's right below the dowel pins.
1. Insert screwdriver
2. 22mm socket on long breaker bar
2a. Wiggle crank to ensure screwdriver has engaged the ring gear on the flywheel
3. Pull from the passenger side gently until screwdriver has positively locked the motor still.
4. loosen crank bolt.
 
#11 ·
If you put the car in third gear (for the standard guys) and lock the parking brake, you can break it loose with just the breaker bar. The car will start to roll until the slack runs out. I've also done it by putting a screwdriver through the upper access hole when I had the auto transmission and once with the starter bump method. On the standard I've been able to just lock it in gear and set the brake.
 
#26 ·
Yea I used the "put it in 5th method too". Easy as pie especially with someone on the brakes. Since I had a KB pulley it was my only option anyway. No holes and impact tools do not touch my car.

The bump method does work, but it can be dangerous and it still leaves the problem of re-torquing.
 
#24 · (Edited)
I've done it by wedging a screwdriver or 3/8 extension into the transmission housing hole but sometimes it would pop out of the place I put it and its difficult to hold it and turn the breaker bar at the same time. It was more difficult to find a good location on the automatic. Works well when you have a friend for sure.
 
#36 ·
Place the Breaker bar on the ground or against the frame rail. Pull the plug wires and crank.

Quick crank, or you'll lodge the breaker bar in between the crank bolt and radiator.
 
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