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A Few Tweaks to this Method

First, thanks to everyone for posting ideas on this topic. I had the crankshaft pulley (harmonic balancer) separate into two pieces (inner ring and outer ring) which also trashed the belts. Unfortunately, this happened on Friday of a 3-day holiday weekend, so there was no way I was going to get a specialized Subaru tool, even from Amazon, until Tuesday of next week. Using this method, with a few tweaks that I'll described, saved the day and my 2003 Outback I back on the road.

Here are three tweaks that I used that some might find helpful:

1. Rather than a long-handle screw driver, I used a long 3/8 ratchet extension to stop the rotation of the pulley. Because you can get extensions in many lengths, it increases the number of options in the car that can act as the "stop".

2. I wasn't comfortable using any pulley on the engine as the stop point for the 3/8" extension bar. On my Outback, I found a U-shaped channel in the frame, just underneath the battery, that served as an excellent stop for rotation both when removing the pulley and torqueing the new one. The 3/8" extension bar needs to be about 22 - 24 inches long to reach the U-shape in the frame.

3. Rather than using short 3/8" ratchet extensions in the holes on the pulley, I used 1/2" bolts of slightly shorter length. The bolts actually fit more securely in the holes on the pulley and the heads helped to stop the long 3/8" extension from slipping off them while I was working on the mounting bolt.

I hope these ideas help save someone's weekend like the original posts saved mine!
 

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I see countless threads where people suggest the "starter bump" method to remove your crank pulley. While sure, this works, it's NOT the best way to do it. And, then your still stuck with correctly torquing it back up. I've mentioned quite a few times, this alternative method, but I'm not sure it's been quite clear how to do it. If you don't have, nor want to spring for the Subaru Specific Tool, you can do this to loosen, and re-torque your crank pulley with ease.

All you need is 2x3/8" short extensions, a long screw driver, and your 22mm socket on a breaker bar. Insert the 2 extensions in two of the small holes in the crank pulley. Wedge the screwdriver between teh extensions and prop the handle on something. I used the alternator pulley. Insert the 22mm, and go to town!!


Major High-Res version


Mjor High-Res version

So please, no more "starter-bump" sujestions for the crank pulley. There is no way you can convince me it's easier, safer, nor better than this method.

edit: Check out Storms post #9 for what appears to be one of the Factory Methods to do this
The BETTER way to remove your crank pulley!
Can you upload the pictures again? the links stopped working
 
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