It was a computerized deal. They had a print out, but I didn't ask to keep it (I did look at it). One of the technicians that actually did the alignment called me back to the bay and she said that I didn't have enough information to do the alignment to my specs (your and Bill's specs). She said something about needing tolerances and some other stuff . I wasn't sure what to tell her. Apparently she thought those settings were for oval track racing or something....lol. I think she was kind of confused as to what I wanted so I just told her to set it to factory settings (already on the comp. screen). They didn't even get started on it till after 5.......I think it was more like 5:30.
Bill stopped by on his way to Junior's and I told him what she had said about the settings. He said they could have done it with what I gave them...said they might have been bull crapping me. Honestly I think she didn't know how to set it up with just those settings. Probably all she knew how to set cars up with was factory settings (how they are trained, probably) It's ok, I can always go back..........like next week....haha.
I scanned the pamphlet I got over and it says I can get an alignment every 5,000 miles or whenever I "need" it. So I guess that means basically anytime.
Firestone alignment guy: "Uh, looks like you just had an alignment done 2 weeks ago."
*** (Firestone alignment guy) LOL: "Your car is fine, it's in spec"
Me: "I'll be back in 5 minutes, gotta go hit a curb"
I just heard back from the dealership yesterday and they said that SOA said I needed to take the car back to where it was originally worked on (Hunter)...grrr. So I'm going to have to call SOA and see if I absolutely have to do that. And then I'll have to have it worked on. Can I hang on to this stuff till I get my tranny fixed? please??
I am currently looking for springs out of a newer wrecked one that are slightly shorter and have a stiffer spring rate. Would be nice to also get the Bilstein's that come with it.....and that 1" rear sway. hehe
P.S. Drum brakes suck! Especially if you try working on them yourself. Ask me how I know this.
I know, I was talking to the guy over at AlleyCat for a while.....plus I remember hearing that you and April both had mini-trucks....I'm not looking to lower it so much as emulate the better suspension package that came out the year after mine was made (but same body style and everything else). If you have done any S10, then mine would probably be no different. Most of the GM stuff bolts up within like +/- 8 years or so. Makes finding parts pretty simple....
I was thinking of a 1" block in the back just to drop it far enough to match the front, which should end up being about right if my guess is correct.
Shouldn't that also stiffen up the rear a bit as far as the spring goes? (Note: I don't have to do an axle-flip as my spring is already on the underside of the axle)
IIRC the fronts are pretty easy. Jack the front of the truck up as high as you can & put it on jackstands. Remove the wheel, brake caliper and rotor. Then put a floor jack under the lower control arms ball joint, loosen the lower ball joint nut until it is slightly higher than the threads on the bolt, let the floor jack down enough that it no longer touches the control arm (just a mm or 2 below it). Take a big hammer (dead blow sledge is preferred) and whack down on the lower ball joint nut to knock the lower control arms ball joint loose from the spindle (It might take a few whacks!). Once it's loose, jack the floor jack up a little (to removre tension on the nut) then remove the ball joint nut. Slowly lower the floor jack to extend the control arm as far own as possible, be careful the spring might pop out, but it's under very little tension at this point. I think S-10's have a couple of bolts that hold the bottom of the spring in place...can't remember for sure, if it does remove those, then pop the spring out. Installation is just the opposite, put the spring in place, jack the control arm up with the floor jack until you can bolt the ball joint back to the spindle, and so on..
The block in the rear will do nothing as far as stiffness is concerned, it will only alter the ride height, get some good performance shocks and a beefy rear sway bar to stiffen things up!
Standard Disclaimer: Do this at your own risk, I am not responsible for your fuck ups....LOL
Jah, I'm not planning to do this right away but I do intend on taking a crack at it sometime in the future. May seek professional help by that point. Doesn't sound too difficult; sounds much easier if someone who has done it before helps though.
I also agree to take responsibility for my own actions and screwups.