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If 188' of tubing doesn't make a rolling chassis I'd say you went wrong somewhere. You can do a bare bones cage with 80'.

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Discussion Starter #43 (Edited)
pretty much just me picturing it in my head holding up a finger for every 5' i thought i'd need then adding it all together on the same thought train. There will be very poor planning and a lot of flying by the seat of my pants. I'll need two fire extingushers for the flaming, one for the fact i'm using erw, and two for my no fucks given approach to building it a stick at a time using more of my eye to measure than an actual square table and tape measure.

make that 3 extingushers. Im goign to flux core most of it lol. Pretty much casue my cwi said i had the same level of pentration as the tig sample and because its WAY easier
 

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What are you bending the material with? None of the sizes you listed are common tube sizes so I imagine you have a pipe bender at work?

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Discussion Starter #45
What are you bending the material with? None of the sizes you listed are common tube sizes so I imagine you have a pipe bender at work?

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a HF hydro pipe kinker i modified to be less kinky. The inside of the bends stay round now but the outside flattens a bit. i can see it in pics above
 

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Discussion Starter #47
Any pictures of said modifications?

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used a carbide die grinder to perfectly match the die to the pipe. Its a pipe size die but it wasnt a nice fit. It was high in seat and would oval the pipe that lead to the kinking. Once i fit the die to the pipe it worked much better. I can probably get even better results if the pipe wasnt freezing cold too.

im extangerating a little with this sketch but you can see where it was high, once i ground that out, the die made a good 170° or so of contact and stopped the kinking

 

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Discussion Starter #48
i could probably throw some weld on the inside sides of the die to keep the pipe from ovaling at all, that should make a much more "mandrel" type bend but then i'd probably have to beat the die off the pipe after each bend. Its not bad enough to go there yet.
 

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i could probably throw some weld on the inside sides of the die to keep the pipe from ovaling at all, that should make a much more "mandrel" type bend but then i'd probably have to beat the die off the pipe after each bend. Its not bad enough to go there yet.
What radius do you bend at?

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Cut the pedal section out of the forester. This makes things much easier. But then ran out of wire





That's an extremely clever way to go about mounting the pedals.

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Discussion Starter #53
After seeing your thread mounting gas pedal, I put a lot of thought into how I was gonna try and mount mine easily. Figured on this why fix what ain't broke
 

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Change of plans. Going to redo that firewall price in 12ga or something weldable

all drawn out, left some room on bottm to reack floor pan

Are you worried about flex?


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Discussion Starter #57
It'll be welded in between 3/4" pipe andshould actually be stiffer than the angle frame version. I was having a hard time welding the forester sheet metal. it was too thin, would burn away before i got any penetration into the angle
 

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It'll be welded in between 3/4" pipe andshould actually be stiffer than the angle frame version. I was having a hard time welding the forester sheet metal. it was too thin, would burn away before i got any penetration into the angle
Gotcha. Subaru sheet metal sucks to weld to for sure.

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