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Registered
2002 OBS / 2008 FXT
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387 Posts
done pinning







got my 3/8 round bar today, now i can at least finish the block pinning

A few questions on your pinning.

Did you use aluminum or steel rod? Machined to size?

Did you hone the cylinders after?

Height of pins?

How deep did you ream to put the pin in?

What size reamer and what size pin?

How much force to get the pins in?


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Experimenter
Tubaru Pickup
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3,910 Posts
Discussion Starter #164 (Edited)
Honestly it was a very generic process. I originally planned on using a 3/8 and 5/16 drill and buying 10mm and 8mm rod then machining rod to fit snug in hole. WELL i found some 5/16 rod at work and it fit perfectly snug in the 5/16 drill hole. So did the 3/8 rod. Rods are 6061 Aluminum. I found the 5/16 rod and bought 4 sticks of 3/8 on ebay for $8 out of Colorado (6061dude), good stuff.

I basically just put tape on the drill bit so i drilled each hole about the same depth, approx 3/4", then with a hack saw i cut the pins about 5/8. Not really a machine shop process here. Ideally the pins could be started but not pushed the hole way with your thumb, I light tap with an small rod and hammer got them finished, not too tight to move or effect the bore. A couple of the pins were too loose for my liking, an easy fix was to lay pin down and whack it with a hammer making it slightly oval shaped, then they fit nice and snug.

The hardest part was cutting and cleaning the little pins without burning yourself. Drilling is the most critical step and would be near impossible without that steel template to keep the bit from jumping around. The template can be made out of bar with just one hole as long as it has the same size hole your drilling and can be firmly clamped in place where you want the pin.
 

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Experimenter
Tubaru Pickup
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3,910 Posts
Discussion Starter #166 (Edited)
An electrical update:

In efforts to prevent knock, I am unhooking my stock knock sensor from the emanage, i believe it may have been filtering detenation noise from the ECU, no bueno. It never seemed to work anyway. This leaves that channel open for me to wire in the IAT sensor in the WRX maf. This should now let me monitor intake temps post intercooler and adjust fuel and timing for heatsoak etc..

LEaves me with two questions to figure out:

1) How fast does the stock wrx intake temp sensor read, and is it fast enough to be useful for pulling timing during heat soak.
2) At what temperature is considered heat soak and how much timing to pull for it.
 

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Registered
2002 OBS / 2008 FXT
Joined
·
387 Posts
Honestly it was a very generic process. I originally planned on using a 3/8 and 5/16 drill and buying 10mm and 8mm rod then machining rod to fit snug in hole. WELL i found some 5/16 rod at work and it fit perfectly snug in the 5/16 drill hole. So did the 3/8 rod. Rods are 6061 Aluminum. I found the 5/16 rod and bought 4 sticks of 3/8 on ebay for $8 out of Colorado (6061dude), good stuff.

I basically just put tape on the drill bit so i drilled each hole about the same depth, approx 3/4", then with a hack saw i cut the pins about 5/8. Not really a machine shop process here. Ideally the pins could be started but not pushed the hole way with your thumb, I light tap with an small rod and hammer got them finished, not too tight to move or effect the bore. A couple of the pins were too loose for my liking, an easy fix was to lay pin down and whack it with a hammer making it slightly oval shaped, then they fit nice and snug.

The hardest part was cutting and cleaning the little pins without burning yourself. Drilling is the most critical step and would be near impossible with that steel template to keep the bit from jumping around. The template can be made out of bar with just one hole as long as it has the same size hole your drilling and can be firmly clamped in place where you want the pin.
Thanks, good call on the template too. It seems anyone that has ever had problems with pinning uses brass or steel pins, aluminum should help alleviate the problem with potential thermal expansion ratio differences.
 

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Experimenter
Tubaru Pickup
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Discussion Starter #168 (Edited)
I did some cam measuring the other day. I always thought NA cams were more aggresive than turbo cams. They are not. The Intake lift was 8.3mm and exhaust was 8.5mm on the bigger lobe. Kinda lame when you figure Sti cams have over 10mm of lift. I dont think i can run much bigger of a cam because the smaller buckets hla heads have less room for the cam lobe to rotate.
 

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Baby❤Daddy
98L Wagon
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27,852 Posts
iirc the fat black one in the don't know pile goes in the oil pump.

the two red ones look like oil cooler gaskets.

can't remember about the other ones.
 

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Discussion Starter #180 (Edited)
I think the bigger skinny one may go under the rear wrist pin access cap, I have to check tonight. I wonder why two oil cooler gaskets..

The bigger fatty doesnt go behind pump, its the same as other oil ports

Update:

Bigger skinny one went under rear wrist pin cover.
The fatty went on oil fill tube in head hole.
Blue one for oil pump
 
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