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Meany Head
2000 RSC
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Hi Kent.. I know your SC kit will not come with an IC for the first run, but I was wondering if you will atleast have a good suggestion for a good IC match to your kit. Since I live Las Vegas, where the average summer temp can get above 110F, an intercooler will be almost necessary for my baby. Mind you, I don't know how I'm going to cool intake air when the outside air is 110F? hehe. I'll worry about that later.

Thanx
 

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If you wait a little bit after the introduction we have decided to offer an intercooler as an option on the stage I, but it will be a little longer in coming out. Not too long though.
 

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RSS Hottie
'00 RS
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Templar said:
If you wait a little bit after the introduction we have decided to offer an intercooler as an option on the stage I, but it will be a little longer in coming out. Not too long though.
so does that mean i can get the supercharger play with it then add an intercooler after?:biggest: woohoo.

Tara
 

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The first ex-ex-moderator!
00 RS & GSX-R 750
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I will be waiting to see where the intake temps come in at before I slap on an intercooler.

Kent - Will there be room for a topmount or will it go in front of the radiator?
 

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It will be a topmount and it will be able to be added on to the basic stage I if you already have bought the regular stage I.
 

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puckaveli said:
I will be waiting to see where the intake temps come in at before I slap on an intercooler.

Kent - Will there be room for a topmount or will it go in front of the radiator?


Alright, I'm not extremely car savvy here, I know the basics but I get lost at times. What relationship does the intercooler have with the air intake? Whats a way to cool the air from the intake? What does the IC essentially do?

I apologize if I'm ignorant to forced induction, but I grew up in a family of women!... thats a lie, but Its a good excuse too.
 

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To cool the air from the intake, you could do a Cold Air Intake (CAI), which is essentially an intake stuck in the fender area where cooler air is. Intercoolers reduce the temperature of the air coming from your turbo going into your engine. Intercoolers can reduce chances of detonation in your engine, as well as adding a cool look!


Graham

:)
 

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Speaking of a cool look. Does anyone here know whether there would be a problem with having an intercooler annodized (I'm assuming they're usually Aluminum)? I'm planning on getting one of Templars kits and I'd like to get the IC annodized red to match the pullies, CAI (which I plan to modify to work with the SC kit) and all the other engine components I've added. Yes, I know red parts don't make it go faster, I just like them...
:p
 

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I imagine that you could get it anodized, though if your gonna do it, make sure you have a lot of stuff because the price is not based on how many pieces that you have.


Graham
 

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If Anodizing is what you want I would recommend AGAINST anodizing the fins as this will reduce the thermal transfer rate of the cooling surfaces. The body of the IC and tubing...NO problem!:sunny:
 

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For those of us in the SW that want the IC with our SCs we may want to consider a 'cool mist' unit ie a water spay unit for the IC. The latent heat of vaporization effect caused as water evaporates off the fins will definitly help when the temps are above 100 F. Direct water injection (post SC pre IC) will also help to cool and humidify our air charge before it gets to the IC or engine (with out IC).:sunny:
 

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Meany Head
2000 RSC
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Discussion Starter #13
I'll absolutly be getting a sprayer kit. It's not that much $$$, and when we hit above 100F, it will we worth it while at the stop lights.
 

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Hey Guys,

I am looking into a new possibility with the intercooler situation in early February. I will be meeting with the guy who is going to be making our camber plates and he has some info that he says I should look into on intercooling. I will let you know some more info when I have it.
 

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kinda dumb question but i need to ask for my own good. As someone previously said about water injection before the ic, is the intercooler rust proof on the inside? I don't know why it hit me but i'm curious. Thanks.
Robert:run:
 

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a little off topic too
how much for the kit?
kit plus IC?
kit with possible FMIC?

and how long will you be having the kits for sale once they are completed?

ohh, and install wise, what else would we need to get this kit working (engine internals, etc...) or are we good from scratch.
 

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We are hoping to bring the basic kit in for around $3000, including everything you need to install and run reliably. The Stage I will work on stock MY00 and 01 internals and ECU. There is going to have to be a modification for the fragile MAS on the 99. The 98 should be fairly easy as well, and will probably be a direct bolt up like the 00 and 01 kits.

I don't know about the intercooler yet, but with the stage I kit, or stage II for that matter a FMIC is probably no only a bit of overkill, but you will be hurting yourself more by pressure loss than you will gain by the cooler air up front and the additional size advantage.

I did mention that I am looking into something that may have some nice benefits along those lines. I should know more about that in the next two weeks.
 

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to the rusting IC question, Intercoolers are aluminum, they dont rust. The water spray kit we are talking about here mists water onto the outsdie fins of the IC, causing steam which draws heat away from the intercooler, into the water droplets which vaporize and hence cool the unit. Real easy to do a DIY on any car.
 

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13 Years of RS
2005 Toyota Corolla :(
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What is direct water injection? Is it an actuall spray into the intake track, or is it just another name for the IC sprayer? And if it's into the intake charge, how does that help, and isn't it bad to get water running through the engine?:confused:
 

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There are two types of 'water spray cooling' to discuss: 1) Direct water injection, which sprays a controlled amount of water spray (preferably de-ionized or distilled) into the intake path. This can occure pre or post IC and is used to control pre detonation (especially usefull in hot dry climates with low octane fuel!) Properly humidified air/fuel burns slower and produces more power than 'dry' air/fuel. This type also lowers the temperature of the air charge through a process called 'latent heat of vaporization' ie as the spray 'evaporates' in the air path it removes heat from the air. One important thing to remember with this type is that you must always use distilled or de ionized water. Military aircraft (recips only) have used this method to increase power for short bursts to get an aircraft out of harms way. Added side bonus...steam cleans your combustion chamber. The water used is small compared to fuel usage anywhere from 1:10 to 1:20 ratio (about a gallon water for a tank of fuel) 2) External cooling spray just what is says fine water spray through the external fins of the IC to 'sub' cool the IC ('sub' in this case means lower than what you could achieve with air alone) Same priciple at work...latent heat of vaporization removes heat from the IC fins as the water 'evaporates' off the fins thus lowering the ICs temp and the air charge moving through it. Once again de ionized or distilled water is best for this application to keep the nozzels and fins free from mineral build up. :sunny:
 
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