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'99 RBP RSTi Coupe
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Discussion Starter #63
Update:
Well, I guess I am not nearly as close to finishing this project as I thought. I encountered some issues...

First off, my power steering rack to massive dump on me and is pissing ATF pretty well. I am currently looking into doing a 15+ rack conversion, but still undecided.

Second, when I put my Spiider DCCD into manual mode and select full lock, it throws a code for P1307 and P1309. These codes are for the OCVs (AVCS) wiring shorts on both cylinder head banks. This makes absolutely no sense to me and I can't get the codes to pop up any other way. Must be something in the wiring.

Third, SuperPro sway bars/bushings don't fit the OEM clamps in the rear. Probably going to to use the whiteline mounting kit with a slight bit of modification.

Fourth, the ABS sensors that fit my hubs don't match the connectors to the GC wiring harness. Gotta splice those together to work.

Due to all these great events, I still haven't installed my Fluidampr pulley, fixed my test connectors, or started removing A/C components from the car.

cars are fun
:blow_money_original
 

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96 Impreza Coupe
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1,583 Posts
Update:
Well, I guess I am not nearly as close to finishing this project as I thought. I encountered some issues...

First off, my power steering rack to massive dump on me and is pissing ATF pretty well. I am currently looking into doing a 15+ rack conversion, but still undecided.

Second, when I put my Spiider DCCD into manual mode and select full lock, it throws a code for P1307 and P1309. These codes are for the OCVs (AVCS) wiring shorts on both cylinder head banks. This makes absolutely no sense to me and I can't get the codes to pop up any other way. Must be something in the wiring.

Third, SuperPro sway bars/bushings don't fit the OEM clamps in the rear. Probably going to to use the whiteline mounting kit with a slight bit of modification.

Fourth, the ABS sensors that fit my hubs don't match the connectors to the GC wiring harness. Gotta splice those together to work.

Due to all these great events, I still haven't installed my Fluidampr pulley, fixed my test connectors, or started removing A/C components from the car.

cars are fun
:blow_money_original
I had an issue with my DCCDPro making my car lean out as the diff would lock. It seems like the DCCDPro is pretty powerful and can cause interference. Make sure that it has its own 12v and ground. That was my issue, once I gave it its own ground and 12v it was just fine. Also check and make sure your connections are all correct (TPS and such).
 

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'99 RBP RSTi Coupe
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Discussion Starter #66 (Edited)
I had an issue with my DCCDPro making my car lean out as the diff would lock. It seems like the DCCDPro is pretty powerful and can cause interference. Make sure that it has its own 12v and ground. That was my issue, once I gave it its own ground and 12v it was just fine. Also check and make sure your connections are all correct (TPS and such).
Yeah that's my first trouble shoot. Gonna start with giving it it's own ground and test it. If that doesn't work I will try giving it it's own 12V. Heck I might just give it it's own 12V regardless to avoid any potential problems down the road.

Another issue I have with the DCCD Pro is when in auto mode and I use the brake, the cluster lights for the level of lock flicker randomly. I have a feeling this is stemming from the left foot braking option. I haven't noticed it causing any mechanical issues besides the lights being annoying so I am not too worried. I am kind of hopeful that redoing the wiring for my other issue might fix it. We will see...

In other news... my new steering rack showed up. I decided to just replace it with another 05-07 Sti rack and not self-induce another headache trying to squeeze a 15+ rack in there. Also I did go with 22mm Whiteline rear sway bar mounts. Will have to get a little clever getting the 23mm Super Pro sway bar to fit.
 

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Discussion Starter #67 (Edited)
SUHBARU - 99RSTi V8 EJ207 RBP GM6

A happier update:



Replaced the steering rack. I decided to stick to another OEM 05-07 STi rack. No more leaks!



Switched the DCCD to have it's own ground and made sure the 12v was also on it's own. This fixed the CEL it was throwing. I also got the test connectors/jump wires sorted out while the wiring was being messed with.



Still no dice on the rear sway bar, but I have a couple more ideas to try before I admit defeat on this.



Fluidampr pulley, ABS sensors, and A/C removal are still on the list of to do.



and FINALLY I am scheduled for a dyno tune this coming Tuesday...
 

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Discussion Starter #68 (Edited)
SUHBARU - 99RSTi V8 EJ207 RBP GM6

Well, I’ve been quiet for a while and as usual, this means things aren’t going too hot.

Got the car tuned with less than desirable results. Car would cut boost early then try and build it back up again making for a poor numbers and a bad power curve. Currently working with another tuner to get a second opinion on the issue. I think we have narrowed it down to either the car blowing spark, or not getting enough fuel.

In other news...

I installed the fluidampr pulley and I’m upset I didn’t know about these things earlier. It really does smooth out the car and if you are running a heavy clutch, it reduces the shudder by a lot when trying to slip it. Definitely recommend picking one of these up.

Got the rear swaybar sorted out and now running 22mm F/R

Hard turns cause the rear wheels to rub on, gonna have to get my fenders rolled (really didn’t want to do this)

Turbo inlet was leaking at the clamp and have now replaced it with a Tomei unit. Yes, these are a PITA like everyone says unless you happen to have the manifold off for something else you are doing.

Picture of the dyno graph:


Engine bay shot before the new inlet and pulley install:
 

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White Lwag
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I've been reading on the fluidampr pulley (for my 7.3 psd). Not cheap, but all the reviews are good. Interesting how it says it tunes to your mods and continues to thru out your power ban. I'd love to hear alittle more of your impressions of it.
 

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Discussion Starter #70
SUHBARU - 99RSTi V8 EJ207 RBP GM6

I've been reading on the fluidampr pulley (for my 7.3 psd). Not cheap, but all the reviews are good. Interesting how it says it tunes to your mods and continues to thru out your power ban. I'd love to hear alittle more of your impressions of it.


Yeah it was not cheap. While the ej207 is a pretty smooth engine to begin with, at idle the engine just sits and hums so smooth with very very little vibration. This is on heavy duty engine and trans mounts. Like I said before my clutch (rated for 500whp) is very firm and made the car shudder if you tried to slip it too much to get going. Since the pulley install I want to say about 70% of that shudder has gone away. Unfortunately, due to the tune, the car doesn’t have a very smooth power band to begin with so I can’t properly comment on how it feels over the course of a full pull.
 

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Discussion Starter #71
SUHBARU - 99RSTi V8 EJ207 RBP GM6

Well, the car has been retuned with MUCH better results this time. Big shout out to Shinji Tuned for all his time, hard work, and attention to detail. The car is a lot more enjoyable to drive now. Picked up about 30whp and 40wtq.





But, as the trend goes for my car; two steps forward one step backwards. The car now has an issue starting. I have some things to look into, but just haven't had the time. Once everything is squared away I'm just going to enjoy it in it's current state. Next year I will be making the switch to flexfuel for that extra power bump!
 

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Discussion Starter #72
Found out the starter was bad. Replaced it and now everything is running smoothly. Decided to have the fenders rolled since the rear wheels will rub slightly on hard corners. So that will be under way soon. Only other issue is my boost gauge will still randomly fail.
 

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Discussion Starter #74
Usually when these threads are dead for extended periods of time it means the project has been abandoned...

NOT THE CASE.

fenders were rolled and completely eliminated my rubbing issue. Car was stored for the winter and brought back out in June. I jumped right into going for flex fuel.

Here is what I had on the table.

-Innovate MTX-D ethanol content gauge for flex fuel
-ID1700cc injectors
-Walbro485 pump
-Grimmspeed manifold spacers
-Killer B AOS
-IAG fuel rails and fuel line kit
-Aeromotive 10 micron fiber glass fuel filter
-Go Fast Bits adjustable short shifter
-Aermototive Fuel pressure regulator

Got it all put together last week and fired it up. Ended up being about 3 psi short on idle vacuum causing misfires and really bad AFR readings. ended up being a hose (easy replacement) and my throttle body. Never seen this before, but the shaft that pivots the throttle plate was leaking on the end where the throttle position sensor is. Replacement is on order now and hopefully next week tuning can go underway.
 

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Discussion Starter #76
+30 whp doesn't do that tune justice! With the old peak of 277 at about 7.5k, verses 300 before 6k, must be a different animal entirely.



You running an electronic boost controller?
Yeah that tune really changed how the car behaved. The first tuner I took it to gave me the 277 tune and blamed my AVCS not working properly. Shinji saw my results and offered to tune it saying I was leaving lots of power on the table (I knew he was right). Without changing anything, Shinji got me that awesome new power curve. Crazy part is he did it via eTune and the original tune was done on a dyno lol.

To answer your question, I run a GrimmSpeed ECBS.

Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk
 

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2001 SRP 2.5RS/RA/SOHC Monster
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+30 whp doesn't do that tune justice! With the old peak of 277 at about 7.5k, verses 300 before 6k, must be a different animal entirely.

You running an electronic boost controller?
No joke. The area under the curve is tremendous.
 
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