[(e)MATS]

right now i have an aluma pro bp12 sub powered by a pg xs2300 amp and my spoiler always rattles. even with the bass and sensitivity turned down it still rattles. i heard it could be my ported box and i should get a sealed one. i was thinking about selling the sub/amp and getting an infinity bass link. would any of these help? i'm really sick of the rattle.

mats

 

[RS25.com]

Actually, there's been several people who have removed the third brake light and put deadening paper on it, or filled the wing with expandable foam. My vote is for the deadening paper. Give that a shot before going crazy on hardware.

The only difference a sealed box will give you is a flatter frequency response, and less boom. So, to some extent, that MIGHT solve the "problem" but at the expense of the volume of your system.

However, my 12" in a sealed box rattles my spoiler. I just turn it up so I cannot hear the rattle any more! :lol:

 

[HondaH8er]

I put some sound-deadening stuff (like Dynamat) on the back of my third breaklight, and sprayed some expanding foam in through the hole while it was out. If you use foam, get the MINIMAL expansion stuff. The max expansion could warp or crack the wing. Also, put something under where you are sparying, you do not want that shit on your paint! If you want to do it right, pull the whole wing off an also spay the foam up through the supports. I didn't, but the buzz is pretty much gone now. It's caused by the wire for the third breaklight vibrating inside the wing, there isn't anything holding it in place, and that's what the foam does. By the way, I'm running a single 10" JL Audio in a sealed box, 150W going to it, and I still had the buzz. Expanding foam=cheaper than new sub box.

 

[Scueby2.5]

Not enough air let into the car

I have two 15' Phosgate HX2's built in a custom box, run by a 1200 watt Phosgate amp and a 400 watt amp running to the four stock (piece of shit) speakers. The system is run with an Optima battery and a power cap voltage distirbutor.

Now, at first I had never heard a car rattle so hard in my life, the 2.5 rs has light metal for the trunk and the back piece behind the back seat shook and rattled to shit.

What you need to do is let more of the air produced by the bass into the car. At first someone suggested to drill port holes on the back piece to let more air into the car. VERY BAD IDEA, I didn't do it cause the car is a uni-body and it would mess up the whole frame (there is a space where you can drill a hole but it wont make a good enough difference). So what I did is take out the back speakers completly. Now to do this is not as easy as it seems but its not hard. You have to take out the whole back seat to do this, kindof sucks but its not too hard. Once you got the speakers out, there will just be two holes on your back piece coming straight from the trunk. You can put the plastic casing to the old speaker back over the holes and you wont even be able to tell the difference on appearance. Now when you play your system it will sound sooooo much better, the bass was a lot more clear and smooth and you couldn't hear the rattles if you were on the inside. The only problem is that if you were in the back seat you cant hear the music, just the bass (well at least with two phosgate HX2 15's) but you can install some speakers on the back doors (or sides if you have a coupe).

Now after you got the speakers out there wont be as much air from the bass trying to escape out the trunk so it wont rattle AS MUCH. If you have a big system like mine it will still rattle pretty bad. All you would probably need is dynomat on the trunk (it isn't too expensive but it isn't cheap). This will keep your trunk from rattling, therefore your spoiler will not rattle either. But you might not even need the dynomat depending on how much bass your subs are producing.

The greatest difference that helped though was taking out the back speakers, try it and let me know if it helped