Those Bajo fittings are pretty rad. Noted.
Thanks man...Nolan mentioned he has some on order for you. What size did you end up going with?I saw you got your wheels in, and here I am waiting still like a looooooser haha.
Looks mad good dude, and love that the display just takes a DBC and off she rips.
Are the RCM cam gears metal? I just got myself the STi remade Samco hoses in from them today... always quality.
Thanks man! I definitely didn't pick these wheel for looks - basically only for weight and brake clearance. But man, they are really growing on me. I lowered the car about 5-6mm yesterday and I'm really liking the way these look. Probably could go a touch lower - these tires have much better clearance which was my hope.I'm too poor to keep reading through this thread
Great work, the TC's look awesome!
Thanks for these updates, they're really helpful for people like me who are new to track oriented setups.Thanks man! I definitely didn't pick these wheel for looks - basically only for weight and brake clearance. But man, they are really growing on me. I lowered the car about 5-6mm yesterday and I'm really liking the way these look. Probably could go a touch lower - these tires have much better clearance which was my hope.
Also, I modified my rear struts to get me closer to my camber target. The top hole was already slotted - so I slotted it some more. I was previously maxed out at -1.5 degrees. I think this is pretty close to 3. So, some room to dial it back to 2-2.5 degrees.
The stock gears are known to break, especially under high stress. Figured for ~$300 it's good insurance.Any benefit to the RCM gears other than they're not 20 years old?
I've got camber plates and the top hole in the lower strut mount is slotted. They're slotted as they come from Feal, but I had to extend the slot a little more to get a little more camber. My plan now is to Max it out on the knuckle and lock it down, and if I need to back the camber off I will do so with the camber plate. I was already maxed out on both the camber plate and knuckle and only had around -1.5 degrees. I'm wanting -2 to -2.5 degrees.Thanks for these updates, they're really helpful for people like me who are new to track oriented setups.
How are you adjusting rear camber? Do you have camber bolts and/or plates? I threw my rear coils on today with regular bolts and there's a ton of room for adjustment. Not sure if should just torque the hell out of the bolts to keep the hub in place, go with camber bolts, or splurge on some plates.
Gotcha, thanks! Drilling out the slot seems like the best approach since I doubt Feal would go out of their way to weld up GC spec lowers that fit 114 knuckles.I've got camber plates and the top hole in the lower strut mount is slotted. They're slotted as they come from Feal, but I had to extend the slot a little more to get a little more camber. My plan now is to Max it out on the knuckle and lock it down, and if I need to back the camber off I will do so with the camber plate. I was already maxed out on both the camber plate and knuckle and only had around -1.5 degrees. I'm wanting -2 to -2.5 degrees.
As long as you can get to your target camber, there's no need for camber plates IMO. My issue is I have GD lowers on my coil-overs because I have 5x114 knuckles, and naturally the GD lowers give more positive camber when used with stock GC track width.
Have you not run into clearance issues between the wheel and coilover body doing this? I've done that on both my GD and GC and when I max it out at the knuckle the tire always ends up contacting the lower collar on the coilover.My plan now is to Max it out on the knuckle and lock it down, and if I need to back the camber off I will do so with the camber plate.
I still have decent clearance to the coilover, even after extending the slot on the lower mount by ~1/8". Narrower tire helps a little, and 5mm more offset on these wheels helps too.Have you not run into clearance issues between the wheel and coilover body doing this? I've done that on both my GD and GC and when I max it out at the knuckle the tire always ends up contacting the lower collar on the coilover.
Ah, I had to go back and look I didn't catch the 43mm offset. I think on the 8.5" 48 mm offset wheels I was running I had to put a 5mm spacer on so that makes sense.I still have decent clearance to the coilover, even after extending the slot on the lower mount by ~1/8". Narrower tire helps a little, and 5mm more offset on these wheels helps too.
Yeah, 8.5 +48 is a squeeze. Especially with the chubby RT660's. With the 245's I was running, the tire was actually rubbing the inside of the wheel well and the trailing arm.Ah, I had to go back and look I didn't catch the 43mm offset. I think on the 8.5" 48 mm offset wheels I was running I had to put a 5mm spacer on so that makes sense.
If my memory is correct it was a 255/35-18 RE980ASYeah, 8.5 +48 is a squeeze. Especially with the chubby RT660's. With the 245's I was running, the tire was actually rubbing the inside of the wheel well and the trailing arm.
What size tire were you running?
Probably. I might give it a go. Or notLooks damn good for the money. I may have to jump on one of those for mine. Do you think some massaging with a heat gun might smooth out the ends?