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Stew's 98RS

129757 Views 674 Replies 80 Participants Last post by  Combat Chuck
The time has finally come for me to organize a members journal! Ive been a member here since I purchased my 98 2.5RS in late December of 2005. My car, not unlike myself, has been through a lot since then and made many changes. And now, upon organizing parts and information for my swap, I though I should get the cars history laid out so I can properly journal its future :D

Current Photos:










Current Mod List 3/13/2023

Engine / Exhaust / Fuel System

Version 9 EJ207
Injector Dynamics 1050X Injectors
IAG Competition series oil pan / baffle / pickup
IAG polyurethane engine mounts
KSTech DBW throttle adapter
2007 2.5i DBW Throttle Body
Roger Clark Motorsports Downpipe
Roger Clark Motorsports Group N turbo-inlet
Roger Clark Motorsports Alloy Cam Gears (Exhaust Side)
IAG V3 competition AOS
HKS Kevlar timing belt
Roger Clark Motorsports timing belt guide
PTP Turbo Blanket
Grimmspeed Turbo Heat Shield
ETS Top Mount Intercooler
Samco intercooler elbow
Tial Q BOV w/Torque Solutions Adapter
Forge BOV
Aluminati Expansion Tank
CSF Oil Cooler (#8119)
RCM Black Series Oil Sandwich Plate
CSF Aluminum Radiator
Spal 12" fan
Samco radiator hoses
iWire radiator shroud
Cobb overflow bottle w/iWire bracket
K&N Filter w/ 3" Vibrant velocity stack & custom inlet adapter
Radium Surge Tank w/Walbro 255
Radium In-line fuel filter
Continental Flex Fuel Sensor



Drivetrain
Kotouc (KAPS) R4 Sequential Transmission (P2 ratios 3.33 / 2.38 / 1.80 / 1.37 / 1.06 / 0.84 )
Version 9 Sti 6MT transmission TY856WB8KA
Version 9 R180 rear diff
ACT StreetLite flywheel
Exedy Stage 1 Organic HD Clutch
OEM Exedy Clutch
Goodrich Stainless Braided Clutch Line
Torque solutions transmissions mount (poly)
Torque solutions solid carrier bearing bushings (Aluminum)
Kartboy transmission crossmember bushings
Whiteline front and rear shifter bushings
Torque solutions solid shifter u-joint
Whiteline rear diff bushings (rear crossmember)
Whiteline T-frame bushings
IAG Competition pitch stop


Suspension / Steering
V9 STI 5x114 hubs
V9 STi subframes (front/rear)
V9 STi sway bars (front / rear)
Feal 441+ Coilovers w/Swift springs (10k/8k) (9k/8k)
Swift Helper Springs
Professional Awesome 777 Bumpstops
JDM GC8 STi Aluminum control arms
Whiteline ALK
Whiteline roll center kit
Whiteline control arm bushings
Whiteline lateral link bushings
Whiteline trailing arm bushings
Whiteline rear endlinks
Whitleine rear sway-bar mounts
Whiteline 22mm adjustable rear sway bar
Whiteline 22mm adjustable front sway bar
SwayAway front endlinks (for 2015 STi)
2015 STi Steering Rack
L&E Rack steering shaft adapter
Whiteline steering rack bushings
Chasebays power steering reservoir
Mooresport power steering pump adapter
IAG -6an PS high pressure line, custom -6an return line, custom -8an suction line


Brakes
C6 Z06 Corvette 6 piston front calipers w/12.8" STI Rotors
STi Brembo rear calipers
Stoptech Stainless Braided Brake Lines
G-LOC R12 / R10 Brake pads
Centric blank front rotors
Brembo blank rear rotors
CompBrake brake servo
Nameless performance 18" Hydro Handbrake

Wheels/Tires
Enkei PF05 17x8.5 +48
WedsSport TC105X 17x8.5 +43
Falken Azenis RT660 235/40/17
ARP Extended wheel studs

Interior / Safety
Sparco Sprint seat on custom fabricated mounts
Sparco steering wheel
Snap-off R1000 quick release
Custom roll cage built to SCCA GCR specs (1.5"x0.120" DOM)
Schroth Profi 3x2 FIA Harnesses
Renscott Harness Collars
6OC lightweight door panels
181stleader Carbon fuel tank access covers
Custom central switch panel
6OC Drivers floor plate
iWire DBW pedal adaptor
Flocked Dash
Rennline/Rennscot fire extinguisher mount w/Maxout 2.5lb extinguisher


Exterior
Aerosim Research carbon fiber race roof
V6 / RS front bumper w/Fog light covers
JDM Smooth rear bumper
JDM Lightweight bumper beams
JDM Rear spats
JDM Taillights
JDM Clear Corner Lights
Clear side markers
L'aunsport S5 WRC style Rear wing
Bakemono 22B Hood Vents
Bakemono Carbon S201 Mirrors
Shaved side moldings
Shaved trunk
Custom Pearl Blue paint
30% Ceramic window tint
RPG Carbon WRC Mirrors
RPG Carbon Exhaust Shroud
V5/6 Replica front lip

Electronics
Haltech Nexus R5 VCU
Haltech PD16 Power Distribution Module
Haltech 15 Button CAN Keypad
Haltech 8 Button CAN Keypad
Haltech TCA-8 CAN Thermocouple Module w/Prospeed connector brace
Haltech CAN Hub
Haltech TMS-4
ECU Master Dual H-Bridge module
Plex SDM700 Digital Dash Logger
Custom motorsport wire harness
MAPDCCD Center Diff controller
MSEL Solid state battery isolator
Odyssey PC680 Battery
2006+ WRX DBW Pedal / Throttle Body
KA NTC2 Fast motorsports IAT sensor (Intake Manifold)
RIFE IAT charge cooler temp sensor (Intercooler)
Lowdoller Motorsports oil pressure sensor
Lowdoller Motorsport oil temp sensor
Delphi Flex Fuel Sensor w/Raceart Mount
MAC 3port EBCS w/Raceart Mount
AIM Sport 2k PSI brake pressure sensors
Hella Sharptones Horn




Introduction
My name is Steven and this is my long-standing journal documenting the path of my 1998 2.5RS from purchase, daily driving, to now many years later restoration and transition into a dedicated track car. The most recent phase of this project has taken me roughly 6 years. 5 years, but I'm getting close to having a complete car, with the goal for a running driving car later this summer (2021). I'm at the point now where the car is so nearly road-worthy. I'm making a big push, and the goal now is to have it track ready by July 2022. I've now been using and enjoying the car from the summer of 2022. A project like this is never "complete" but its in some version of done. I'll continue to update this as it continues to evolve.

Original Intro from 2005
Heres my Introduction and story for how I got my car:
My name is Steven Stewart and I'm from lower West Michigan. When I was a freshman in college I was in the market for a new car after crashing my first car, a 95 Nissan Altima, into a telephone pole in the snow. Im not exactly sure what sparked my interest in Subarus but It was pretty quickly that I decided I wanted an impreza.

I browsed Ebay, autotrader, craigs list, news papers and such for a couple weeks looking for a new car. One session on ebay, I clicked on a link for this wrecked blue 98 coupe but just glanced at it and moved on. Later, I returned to that link and realized it was about 40min from my house! So the next day I went and looked at it, drove it around the parking lot (it was salvaged title, thats all I could do :( ) and immediately fell in love. They wanted $5500 for it off the lot and that was way too much so I decided to bid on it on Ebay. I Lost the auction to a sniper and it went for $3600 :( I was pretty sad I didnt get it. Anyways, two days later i found it listed again on Ebay! I called them right away, offered $3600 cash and picked it up the next day!

12-21-2005 Purchase!
Heres two pictures the dealer used on the ebay auction




And here she is at the body shop I worked at the day I brought it home




After this, I began the process of rebuilding my new purchase.

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Those Bajo fittings are pretty rad. Noted.
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Ooookay, track season prep continues...

I'm a sucker for 5 spokes, and I love the look of my PF05's (even though they should be gold). However, they are chonky. And, in the future, I want to go up to a larger rotor BBK on the front. So, had been kinda window shopping for some new wheels. I had my eye on Weds TC105X because they have mega brake clearance and they are very light. I co-drove for a friend at Sno*drift and afterwords he got hooked up with the Weds USA guy to get some rally spec TC105X, turns out he got another friend hooked up with a distributorship and bingo-bango....




Picked up a set in 17x8.5 +43 which weigh in at just over 16lbs. This is almost 4 pounds lighter per wheel than my PF05's. I also went down a size on tires. Stayed with the RT660 but went to a 235/40/17. This should let me get the car a little lower and improve clearance with more aggressive alignment. And honestly, the RT660's run so wide a 235 is a more appropriate size for this width wheel. And, it should help cut a little more weight....





With these, I also installed my Haltech TMS-4 and sensors in the wheels. So, a few updates to my CAN database for my Plex dash and....Voila....Tire pressure and temp data!



And finally, one last goodie that I found out is kinda required (if not highly advisable) for another mod I've got coming this season....



So, still got some work to do, including modding some parts to get my alignment right, but....we're moving along steadily.
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I saw you got your wheels in, and here I am waiting still like a looooooser haha.

Looks mad good dude, and love that the display just takes a DBC and off she rips.

Are the RCM cam gears metal? I just got myself the STi remade Samco hoses in from them today... always quality.
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I saw you got your wheels in, and here I am waiting still like a looooooser haha.

Looks mad good dude, and love that the display just takes a DBC and off she rips.

Are the RCM cam gears metal? I just got myself the STi remade Samco hoses in from them today... always quality.
Thanks man...Nolan mentioned he has some on order for you. What size did you end up going with?

All the RCM shit I have is legit. And yeah, the RCM gears are metal. Aging plastic gears are apparently prone to breaking, especially when exposed to increased drivetrain shock load....
I'm too poor to keep reading through this thread :(

Great work, the TC's look awesome!
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I'm too poor to keep reading through this thread :(

Great work, the TC's look awesome!
Thanks man! I definitely didn't pick these wheel for looks - basically only for weight and brake clearance. But man, they are really growing on me. I lowered the car about 5-6mm yesterday and I'm really liking the way these look. Probably could go a touch lower - these tires have much better clearance which was my hope.




Also, I modified my rear struts to get me closer to my camber target. The top hole was already slotted - so I slotted it some more. I was previously maxed out at -1.5 degrees. I think this is pretty close to 3. So, some room to dial it back to 2-2.5 degrees.


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Brief update with todays progress: RCM Cam gears = Installed.


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Any benefit to the RCM gears other than they're not 20 years old?
[/QUOTE]
Thanks man! I definitely didn't pick these wheel for looks - basically only for weight and brake clearance. But man, they are really growing on me. I lowered the car about 5-6mm yesterday and I'm really liking the way these look. Probably could go a touch lower - these tires have much better clearance which was my hope.




Also, I modified my rear struts to get me closer to my camber target. The top hole was already slotted - so I slotted it some more. I was previously maxed out at -1.5 degrees. I think this is pretty close to 3. So, some room to dial it back to 2-2.5 degrees.
Thanks for these updates, they're really helpful for people like me who are new to track oriented setups.

How are you adjusting rear camber? Do you have camber bolts and/or plates? I threw my rear coils on today with regular bolts and there's a ton of room for adjustment. Not sure if should just torque the hell out of the bolts to keep the hub in place, go with camber bolts, or splurge on some plates.
Any benefit to the RCM gears other than they're not 20 years old?
The stock gears are known to break, especially under high stress. Figured for ~$300 it's good insurance.

Thanks for these updates, they're really helpful for people like me who are new to track oriented setups.

How are you adjusting rear camber? Do you have camber bolts and/or plates? I threw my rear coils on today with regular bolts and there's a ton of room for adjustment. Not sure if should just torque the hell out of the bolts to keep the hub in place, go with camber bolts, or splurge on some plates.
I've got camber plates and the top hole in the lower strut mount is slotted. They're slotted as they come from Feal, but I had to extend the slot a little more to get a little more camber. My plan now is to Max it out on the knuckle and lock it down, and if I need to back the camber off I will do so with the camber plate. I was already maxed out on both the camber plate and knuckle and only had around -1.5 degrees. I'm wanting -2 to -2.5 degrees.

As long as you can get to your target camber, there's no need for camber plates IMO. My issue is I have GD lowers on my coil-overs because I have 5x114 knuckles, and naturally the GD lowers give more positive camber when used with stock GC track width.
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I've got camber plates and the top hole in the lower strut mount is slotted. They're slotted as they come from Feal, but I had to extend the slot a little more to get a little more camber. My plan now is to Max it out on the knuckle and lock it down, and if I need to back the camber off I will do so with the camber plate. I was already maxed out on both the camber plate and knuckle and only had around -1.5 degrees. I'm wanting -2 to -2.5 degrees.

As long as you can get to your target camber, there's no need for camber plates IMO. My issue is I have GD lowers on my coil-overs because I have 5x114 knuckles, and naturally the GD lowers give more positive camber when used with stock GC track width.
Gotcha, thanks! Drilling out the slot seems like the best approach since I doubt Feal would go out of their way to weld up GC spec lowers that fit 114 knuckles.
My plan now is to Max it out on the knuckle and lock it down, and if I need to back the camber off I will do so with the camber plate.
Have you not run into clearance issues between the wheel and coilover body doing this? I've done that on both my GD and GC and when I max it out at the knuckle the tire always ends up contacting the lower collar on the coilover.
Have you not run into clearance issues between the wheel and coilover body doing this? I've done that on both my GD and GC and when I max it out at the knuckle the tire always ends up contacting the lower collar on the coilover.
I still have decent clearance to the coilover, even after extending the slot on the lower mount by ~1/8". Narrower tire helps a little, and 5mm more offset on these wheels helps too.
I still have decent clearance to the coilover, even after extending the slot on the lower mount by ~1/8". Narrower tire helps a little, and 5mm more offset on these wheels helps too.
Ah, I had to go back and look I didn't catch the 43mm offset. I think on the 8.5" 48 mm offset wheels I was running I had to put a 5mm spacer on so that makes sense.
Ah, I had to go back and look I didn't catch the 43mm offset. I think on the 8.5" 48 mm offset wheels I was running I had to put a 5mm spacer on so that makes sense.
Yeah, 8.5 +48 is a squeeze. Especially with the chubby RT660's. With the 245's I was running, the tire was actually rubbing the inside of the wheel well and the trailing arm.

What size tire were you running?
Yeah, 8.5 +48 is a squeeze. Especially with the chubby RT660's. With the 245's I was running, the tire was actually rubbing the inside of the wheel well and the trailing arm.

What size tire were you running?
If my memory is correct it was a 255/35-18 RE980AS
Small update: I wanted a front lip. I looked into new OEM V5/6 lips which are available from the UK. The price with shipping is ~$500. I considered an RPG carbon lip for around the same money, but ultimately decided I didn't want to "invest" so much into this bumper setup. Since, after all, my dream setup is a sports bumper and eventually I'd like to get a Launsport replica.

So, this led me to roll the dice on an ebay lip (Link in case anyone is interested). Definitely a little against the grain philosophy wise with this build. Normally I'm all about choosing quality parts. But, in this case, it wasn't justifiable and this current bumper is already a little flawed - I put a huge scratch on the drivers side when I installed it and some heavy contact with a cone cracked the paint in the front. So, this knock off lip will do for this season. Plan is to paint it if I find time.

It came packaged decently (not folded like a pretzel). Overall fitment isn't terrible. It's pinched at the ends of the bumper. Otherwise it's decent. For $60, acceptable.







Overall, I dig it. Definitely rounds things out. Paint will help.



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Looks damn good for the money. I may have to jump on one of those for mine. Do you think some massaging with a heat gun might smooth out the ends?
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Looks damn good for the money. I may have to jump on one of those for mine. Do you think some massaging with a heat gun might smooth out the ends?
Probably. I might give it a go. Or not :LOL: I've got a bunch of other stuff I need to get done in the next two and a half weeks. So I might just shoot it and run with it.
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