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Premium Member
2001 SRP 2.5RS/RA/SOHC Monster
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2,815 Posts
Nice! Keep up the good work. You know what they say, the last 10% takes 90% of the time.
 

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Premium Member
98 RS | 98 L Wagon
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1,746 Posts
Discussion Starter · #524 ·
Awesome progress! If my build turns out half as clean as yours I'll be happy!
Nice! Keep up the good work. You know what they say, the last 10% takes 90% of the time.
Damn! Loving your build!
Thanks everyone! Really, I truly appreciate the kind words and encouragement. I'm trying to keep the momentum going. I wasn't feeling the best about the condition of those stock STi injectors, having had two completely clogged. And since I'm already setup for flex fuel with the Haltech, I decided to get a set of ID1050's before I start tuning the car. Swapped the connectors over and threw these bad boys in...



Worked on tidying up a few things. One item was the AOS outlet / vent line. The kit ships with like 4 feet of 1" heater hose which is nearly impossible to route in a clean way. I got a 1" silicon 90 degree elbow and fit it up with a joiner to the standard hose to run under the car. Much more clean and out of the way....


Aaand I've continued to finished up the last little bit of wiring the car needs. I got the alternator wired up (mostly). This required a little work around to get the charge signal to work correctly. More on that later. Also, I finished up wiring the front of the car for headlights, radiator fan, turn signals, etc.




Otherwise, I filled the power steering system and got it bled. No leaks! And it bled really easy which was nice. Working on getting the cooling system bled but I need to re-make the heater core bypass as it was restricting flow too much. More stuff in the mail too...Hopefully get an exhaust made for it soon and get started tuning.
 

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Premium Member
98 RS | 98 L Wagon
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1,746 Posts
Discussion Starter · #525 ·
Plugging away, trying to make steady progress...I replaced the compressor to intercooler elbow with a silicone elbow from Samco. While I had the IC off I installed an IAG competition pitch stop.

I also added in one last piece of wiring to the engine harness. I used a spare analog input for a secondary air temp sensor in the Intercooler outlet. I had ETS add a bung just because and I figured this would be interesting data to have, given the discussion I often have about where is best to measure IAT. Unfortunately, ETS put the wrong size bung, so my Rife IAT sensor is currently in an adapter. Womp. I'll get the right size sensor eventually.


Also, now that I've had the engine running a while and had a chance to make sure everything was functioning correctly, It was time to shrink the final boot on the harness. This sucker is officially complete.


Next, I got the alternator control wiring done. This was a little tricky. It's little things like this that take a fair amount of research, finding the right parts, waiting for delivery, and testing to make sure a simple thing like a functional charging system is in place. The OEM setup has two wires on this alternator: #1 is a voltage reference - easy enough, connect that pin to battery positive. #2 is a "charge signal" that comes from a lightbulb in the stock cluster. There in lies my problem - No cluster, so how do I wire this? Well, you can wire an ignition signal through a resistor and a diode. And it turns out someone makes a little PCB setup just for this ( Home » Shop » Wiring » Custom Terminations » Resistor Load Board for Alternators, Fuel Pumps, Gauge Clusters, & More ). So, I got both a 180 and 470, but only tried the 180. Things seemed happy enough so I wrapped it up.



Next, I set my sights on getting the exhaust finished up. A good friend of mine has a brother who is a welder and fabricates exhausts and other components at his day job. He happens to have access to a lift and does exhausts on the side. So, off we went. My friend helped me drag the car over there and we got to work.


Got to put my Type R to work for the first time :geek:


We used a Vibrant universal 3" muffler and 3" stainless pipe the rest of the way to the downpipe. We also put a V-band for the axle back section so it can come off easily.




And the best part of building an exhaust....
 

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Premium Member
98 RS | 98 L Wagon
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1,746 Posts
Discussion Starter · #527 ·
Been plugging away still. I have a tentative time-line that, if all goes well, should put me on the road early/mid June. Should be enough time to debug and shake the thing down before a track day weekend I have booked for July. Fingers Crossed!

Over the weekend I clear-coated the carbon roof. This was an order of operations deal - I needed the roof finished before the glass can go back in because the glass mounts over the lip of the roof (obviously). I have never painted or clear-coated carbon fiber before, so this was a learning opportunity. When I purchased the roof from Aerosim, at the time they told me to clean it well, sand it with whatever is recommended by the clear-coat manufacturer, and to make sure it's a good quality UV clear.

So, I cleaned it with wax and grease remover and then sanded with P400.


The weather was decent enough Sunday that I was able to get my garage up to about 75 with the heater and then shut it off. Cleaned everything off very thoroughly, re-masked the car, and shot 4 coats of SPI Universal Clear. This is high quality high-solids clear. I had no issues shooting it - everything went down very clean, no issues with the process itself. I realized pretty quickly though that the carbon is very porous and it was generating a lot of pin-holes.

Some areas look great, like this...


However most of it looks like this...


I think my plan of action will be to let this fully cure for a couple weeks, then sand it back with p600 and put another couple of coats of clear over top. Beyond that I'm not sure what to do, so if anyone has any suggestions I'm all ears. My reading is telling me the proper way to fix it is to apply resin to the part before clearing - well, unfortunately for me that ship has sailed. I'm not too worried about it - I'm sure I'll figure something out.

The good news is it still looks stunning in the sun.



So, not the best and not the worst. I can at least still move forward with my next step - glass.
 

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Premium Member
98 RS | 98 L Wagon
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1,746 Posts
Discussion Starter · #530 ·
Looks nice! What is your plan for the roof moulding now that the mounting points have been removed?
Thats a good question. I still have the posts for mounting clips on the A and C pillars. So trim will be held securely there, and I'll probably put a couple dabs of some kind of adhesive along the roof rails portion? That's what I'm thinking at least.
 

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2000 RS Coupe
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188 Posts
You may need to build up a bit where you plan to use adhesive due to the fact that the roof moulding is designed to clip into the mounting tabs which sit about 1/8" higher than the roof channel, if memory serves correctly. That way the moulding will be flush with the roof.
 

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98 RS | 98 L Wagon
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1,746 Posts
Discussion Starter · #532 ·
You may need to build up a bit where you plan to use adhesive due to the fact that the roof moulding is designed to clip into the mounting tabs which sit about 1/8" higher than the roof channel, if memory serves correctly. That way the moulding will be flush with the roof.
Thats a good point. I wonder if maybe I can still put a clip in the trim, then a dab of adhesive on the clip? Luckily I have a pair of new trims as well as my original ones which were in decent shape. I can mess around with those ones first.

Spent some time this weekend working on the car...A couple little random things and some more significant work. First on my to-do list...Trunk pull. I didn't want to / cant use the stock pull / mounting location with the repairs to the floors I had to make. I also just wanted something a little more...I don't know. More? I got a Lokar universal trunk / hood pull kit from Summit. I ended up using part of the stock cable and parts of the Lokar cable. Essentially, I used the stock cable sheathing so it mounted properly at the rear latch and the Lokar cable inner wire for it to work with the handle. The end result is pretty slick IMO. Mounted the handle behind the driver seat on the B pillar. I was able to change the routing so the cable makes a 180 and goes up the drivers side, keeping the cable shorter.




Because I deleted the key-hole in the trunk, I wanted to eliminate the "cancel" option on the trunk latch. If this ever got flipped to "cancel" I wouldn't have any way to open the trunk. So, anyway - I put a little tack weld on the lever arm to keep it from moving. Hope it holds!

Random... got this little battery powered dome light on Amazon. I love little accessories that attach to the cage.


And finally, I painted the rear bumper, trunk, and wing yesterday. I bought an Astro sun-light to help me check for base-coat coverage and it seems to have helped quite a lot. The true test will obviously be when I get it out in the sun, but overall I'm happy with this. Little bit of trash in the clear that will need to be finish sanded, but I think it should finish out nicely.
Prepped...


Sealer...


Color and Clear...



Ooooph that wing....I'm stoked to mount that up. Prrrrretty worn out though, if I'm bein honest. I'm going to burn myself out on this thing but I'm so close. 10 hours of work to do just these parts. DIY sucks. It's good to know I'm capable of doing this stuff, but not sure I'd do it again.
 
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Premium Member
98 RS | 98 L Wagon
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1,746 Posts
Discussion Starter · #535 ·
I have been really pushing the last few weeks to get stuff done. I've got a target date I'm trying to hit...so, feeling very motivated. I'm working on trying to get insurance too...that's been a task itself. Trying to find a decent agreed value policy that actually lets you drive your car is near impossible...but I'm optimistic.

One issue I thought I might have with the Tial BOV was hood clearance. The combination of a big TMIC, long runner 207 intake manifold, and DBW adapter didn't help anything. Unfortunately, the Tial wasn't even close to fitting.


It's easy to see why. The Tial is huge haha. I opted for a Forge BOV and it clears without 1/4" to spare.



Next, I needed a third brake light since my WRC wing doesn't have one. I had an extra GF8 hatch laying around so I robbed the 3rd brake light assembly off of that. Disassembled it a bit, double side taped an LED strip inside, and bolted it to the ceiling. Not too shabby. I think I'm going to flip it around 180 so its closer to the rear glass.



Otherwise I've been working furiously on paint work. Which is time consuming, obviously. I put 18 hours in over this weekend, prepping one day, and shooting the next. It was super hot and humid. Sunday it was raining and I probably would have been advised to wait, but I can't stand losing time on this. Halfway through sanding...


Paint on Sunday did not go well at first. However, the end result is more than acceptable. It definitely tested me though. Anyway, the chassis and doors are prepped for re-paint. And the front fenders, hood, hood scoop, hood vents, and spats are now painted.


I'm still really nervous about nailing the paint work, especially after messing it up last time :LOL: The hood was especially challenging. Any large, flat panel is. I got it out in the sun yesterday and it seems like It's good. Honestly, the color is phenomenal. The pearl effect is really strong, and changes from deep blue-ish purple to teal-ish green. It's almost like WRB and RBP in one.


Anyway, lots of parts and materials in the mail. Lots of work ahead but I can taste it.
 

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They call me Garrett
98 RBP V4 STi Swapped RS
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4,164 Posts
I have been really pushing the last few weeks to get stuff done. I've got a target date I'm trying to hit...so, feeling very motivated. I'm working on trying to get insurance too...that's been a task itself. Trying to find a decent agreed value policy that actually lets you drive your car is near impossible...but I'm optimistic.
So... here's my take (read: unsolicited opinion), and this definitely doesn't work for most people, but I feel like it may apply in your case here too:

I've always carried minimal insurance on my GC for a couple reasons. If it gets wrecked and it's my fault, shame on me. If it gets wrecked, and it's someone else's fault, you can't buy parts. If it gets wrecked, and I can buy parts, I can't buy them in the US anyways and insurance will not cover them (caveat, I have not looked into insurance policies that may, so this is debatable). I have no desire to give up the car ever, so an agreed upon value policy will still never make me feel whole, and worst case if I need cash and the car is trashed, I can part it out.

My premium for insurance on the GC is $17 a month. If you are worried about money, take the amount that saves you from full coverage/agreed upon value quotes and throw that cash into a savings account so that when you do send 'er a bit too hard, you've got a rainy day fund.

Modified cars are weird as far as insurance goes, and no one wants a wrecked car.. but at the end of the day I feel a lot of people pay a lot of money just to still feel sad that their car is gone. Driving a vehicle is an inherent risk, and that's just how it is 🤷
 

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Premium Member
98 RS | 98 L Wagon
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1,746 Posts
Discussion Starter · #537 ·
So... here's my take (read: unsolicited opinion), and this definitely doesn't work for most people, but I feel like it may apply in your case here too:

I've always carried minimal insurance on my GC for a couple reasons. If it gets wrecked and it's my fault, shame on me. If it gets wrecked, and it's someone else's fault, you can't buy parts. If it gets wrecked, and I can buy parts, I can't buy them in the US anyways and insurance will not cover them (caveat, I have not looked into insurance policies that may, so this is debatable). I have no desire to give up the car ever, so an agreed upon value policy will still never make me feel whole, and worst case if I need cash and the car is trashed, I can part it out.

My premium for insurance on the GC is $17 a month. If you are worried about money, take the amount that saves you from full coverage/agreed upon value quotes and throw that cash into a savings account so that when you do send 'er a bit too hard, you've got a rainy day fund.

Modified cars are weird as far as insurance goes, and no one wants a wrecked car.. but at the end of the day I feel a lot of people pay a lot of money just to still feel sad that their car is gone. Driving a vehicle is an inherent risk, and that's just how it is 🤷
I hear you. For sure its different for everyone. I fully recognize that insurance can not replace the thing if its totaled. Like you said, chassis, parts, custom fab'd stuff, and my time is mostly impossible to replace. My problem is I have put a significant amount of money into this thing. If I ever had to replace it due to total loss and I wanted to try building another one, I have a number in mind that would make me feel whole in that scenario.

I got a policy underwritten by Haggerty but I'm not pulling the trigger because it's too expensive - $2,200 per year for guaranteed value of $50k. They also have too many limitations like you can't drive it to work. I called and asked if I would really be prohibited from driving it to my office once and a while and they said "once in a while is fine, you'd be covered". However, thats too ambiguous IMO for a premium insurance.

I have another policy in the works with another agent through Condon Skelly. $50k agreed value, includes an exception for driving to work (clearly written in the policy so Its not ambiguous) and it's only about $900/year. To me, that's a good value. The only problem with them is my agent said I need to have it more complete in photos before they'll underwrite. Remind me to tell you about that later :LOL:
 

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Premium Member
98 RS | 98 L Wagon
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1,746 Posts
Discussion Starter · #538 · (Edited)
Short update: Got my glass out of the attic and scraped the old nasty window tint off. Unfortunately, I also had to scrape off my OG RS25 decal. Had a friend of a friend that does tint make a house call yesterday. I figured its now or never, since tinting the rear glass would be a nightmare with the cage. I wanted something light so I still have good visibility, but also look nice and keep the interior of the car a little bit cooler. So, we went with 30% ceramic and I'm pretty happy how it came out.





 

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Premium Member
2000 RS Sedan Silver
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16 Posts
I was just perusing the forum and did not expect to read your entire journal in one setting. Thanks for sharing! It was cool to see your progression and you developed some mad fab skills. I’m just at the start of my own build. Dude, this was absolutely inspiring.
 

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Premium Member
98 RS | 98 L Wagon
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1,746 Posts
Discussion Starter · #540 ·
I was just perusing the forum and did not expect to read your entire journal in one setting. Thanks for sharing! It was cool to see your progression and you developed some mad fab skills. I’m just at the start of my own build. Dude, this was absolutely inspiring.
Dang man...that means a lot to me. I'm glad RS25 is still an outlet for me and others. I used to be the one binging build threads and day dreaming about someday rebuilding my coupe. It's really flattering if I've inspired anyone. And honestly, when there are setbacks, issues, delays, etc...it's hard at times to find the motivation to keep going. In the grand scheme of things, this project isn't that significant or important...I'm just putting a project car together. However it is very personally significant and it's been an escape through some really tough times.

So anyways...sincerely, thank you and good luck with your build!
 
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