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98 RS | 98 L Wagon
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Discussion Starter · #481 ·
Got around to installing the engine mounts and pan the last couple of nights. Engine mounts are super straightforward and easy. One of the mounts that came off the car was super fucked up though!


New IAG mounts looking very pretty.


Pulled the stock pan, pickup and windage tray off. I probably would have run the stock pan for a while had it not been dented. So, what better time than now to spend money on a fancy ass oil pan? The comparison is pretty telling. More volume and excellent baffling on the competition series pan.



Installed the windage tray and pickup.


Installed the pan and oil temp sensor.



And there you have it. Can confirm, the twin scroll EJ207 headers do NOT fit with this pan, at least not with the heat shields. So, I'll be cutting them off and maybe heat wrapping the stock manifold. We'll see. I'll be waiting on gaskets for the time being anyway!
 

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#32
95 Coupe, 95 Sedan & 95 Wagon
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12,623 Posts
Lots o updates!

With the rear calipers, you want the metal on metal contact for the torque - layer of powder coat would throw off the numbers, then down the road, crack, chip, give you that 1/100th room to vibrate and cause you trouble.

That's my internet opinion and I'm sticking to it!
 

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Premium Member
98 RS | 98 L Wagon
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1,702 Posts
Discussion Starter · #485 ·
So, I mentioned that the stock twin scroll headers wouldn't clear the IAG oil pan. The heatshields needed to be cut off, unfortunately, because Ideally I would have kept them for heat management. But anyways...took about 30-40 min to carefully drill out all the spot welds and cut in various placed to get it all off. The stock header is really quite nice under there.



So with that done, I wanted to add some heat management. I decided I'd wrap the header and up-pipe, however I needed to add my EGT bungs first. I decided to do 4 individual EGT thermocouples. I purchased 4 3/16 open ended thermocouples from thesensorconnection.com. Fitting the bungs on the up-pipe side was a little tight, and required some consideration in order to not interfere with anything.



After mocking up, I marked and drilled the holes and had a friend tig weld the bungs onto the header. Its hard to keep these evenly distanced from the flange (1.5" away). It's not ideal to have these on or near a bend, but its the best I could get it, I believe.




Then came wrapping the header and up-pipe. I used DEI titanium header wrap. Super pain in the ass. Not happy with the metal zip ties currently. I'm probably going to get new ones and try it again. Or just use hose clamps like some people do. In any case, it came out pretty decent. I fitted the thermocouples and mocked up the header...I need to pickup some new gaskets before I can permanently install.




 

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Premium Member
98 RS | 98 L Wagon
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1,702 Posts
Discussion Starter · #486 ·
Moving on! I also received a new parts dump. From Roger Clark Motorsports in the UK I picked up their twin scroll downpipe and a Group N smooth turbo-inlet. From Radium I got a single pump fuel surge tanke. And from IAG I got their competition series AOS. Finally, a set of Falken RT660's in 245/40/17. Creative packaging award goes to RCM :LOL:





I mocked up the AOS.


Then set about to installing the surge tank. I want to avoid having fuel system stuff in the car. For one, I don't want a trunk firewall if I can avoid it. Secondly, This seems like a cleaner approach, in my mind. I considered the safety of having this under car...I might make a small shield for it. Ultimately, its tucked up above the sub-frame and is probably in a decently safe spot. Worst case scenario, I can mount it with the same holes inside the car.



I also got the stock fuel lines to fit around the cage with a little fenagling. Ideally, these wouldn't run between the cage and the shell at the main hoop. Although, I've seen plenty of builds done this way. We'll see if someone ever cares at a technical inspection.





Aaaand finally...Just got fun...I got a steering wheel hook.


Still plenty to do. And more parts in the air. Going to work on wrapping up the surge tank and fuel system install next...I think....
 

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Premium Member
98 RS | 98 L Wagon
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Discussion Starter · #487 ·
Got my tires mounted!


Everything I've been reading on the internet has said these RT660's run wide. It certainly seems the 245 is wider than normal. Even compared to my buddies RT660's in 255 section...his on the left, my 245's on the right...(his are on a 9" wheel too...mine on a 8.5")


Certainly seems not worth it to go any wider. Anyways...I promptly took these home and got them on the car and rolled it outside.



The height and alignment is all fucked up obviously...but this looks promising.


Would ya just look at it??



This is the first time in about 4 years that the car has been on its own wheels. So, that feels good.
 

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They call me Garrett
98 RBP V4 STi Swapped RS
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4,139 Posts
My RT660s on my RX-8 were a good 5mm wider than my 255 RE71Rs

...also I think they are less grippy...

Looooooookin great buddy!
 

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Premium Member
98 RS | 98 L Wagon
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Discussion Starter · #492 ·
Damn, those look good. Extra meaty
More meat than I bargained for haha

My RT660s on my RX-8 were a good 5mm wider than my 255 RE71Rs

...also I think they are less grippy...

Looooooookin great buddy!
Thanks Dude. It seems the 245 is especially thicc.

I'm starting to think about paint and such, digging the white interior with the color outside. May think about that
There are times when I wished I left it silver (first coat of Rust Bullet). The white is already been hard to keep clean. And I've even had the car covered under plastic most the time in the garage.

Damn this is tidy, some impressive work you've done!
Thank you! I appreciate the kind words.
 

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Premium Member
98 RS | 98 L Wagon
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1,702 Posts
Discussion Starter · #493 ·
Tackled the AN lines for the surge tank. Before I got to that though, I installed a Walbro 255 pump and Radium fuel sock into the surge tank and got it mounted for good.



For the fuel line connections in front of the tank, I used a 5/16ths (8mm) quick disconnect to -6an adapter for the feed and a 5/16ths tube to -6an adapter for the return. In order to get the tube adapter to work on the return, I had to cut the flare off the end of the line which didn't leave much length to work with. I had to straighten the line slightly, and shorten the back of the fitting to get the fitting to slide on further. In the end, I was able to get the compression olive thing to fully seat onto the tube. Fingers crossed for no leaks!



Next, I ran the lines from the fuel tank to the surge tank. For the feed, I used a 90 degree 5/16ths quick disconnect attached to a 90 degree -6an swivel. This was pretty tight to fenagle into place, but once the quick disconnect is clipped into place, it clears everything in the area. For the return, there isn't a great way to adapt a compression fitting. at least, there wouldn't be much room to work with there. And since the lift pump feed and return lines operate under very little pressure, I felt comfortable re-using the barbed fitting on the tank and a 5/16ths barb on the surge return. I've got a 180 degree molded fuel line in the mail, so this isn't yet 100% complete.



Overall, I'm happy with the result. There is just enough room between the subframe and the chassis to pass the 6an hose through. I like that everything is outside of the cabin. I like that I didn't have to modify the stock fuel hangar. And I like that I got to re-use the OEM lines, saving me a bunch of time and money. Now I need to get it wired up, install the fuel fill neck, and the fuel system will basically be done.
 

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Premium Member
98 RS | 98 L Wagon
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Discussion Starter · #494 ·
So, I got my brake master cylinder setup. I decided to do a write up on it since I always see people asking questions about it on the Facebook groups but no one has really put out any good info on what the kit is actually like. So anyway, if you're interested, I made a thread here...


For posterity, Here's some photos of it installed. I still need to fine tune a couple adjustments then think about making brake lines.


 

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#32
95 Coupe, 95 Sedan & 95 Wagon
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12,623 Posts
Looking good

Hmm silver interior, got me thinking now.

My current painted rally build is red/red. To say it easy, it's a lot of... red. Bare shell and cage I mean too. Red

I can't do a single color on the race car, it will drive me crazy. Although white on white wasn't bad on my first build I sold.
 

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98 RS | 98 L Wagon
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1,702 Posts
Discussion Starter · #498 ·
Okay...A few things I did that don't need photos...

Replaced from control arm bolts with proper length ones. I originally ordered GC length bolts, but needed GD length bolts for my V9 subframe.

I also replaced the neutral and reverse switches on the trans. These, inexplicably, were both bad.

And finally, I got a molded 180 degree fuel hose and hooked up the surge tank return line to the fuel tank.

Kay, more exciting stuff....Another parts dump with RCM goodies and stuff to plumb brake lines.


This included an RCM timing kit which has all OEM components and in this case an HKS belt. Whether or not I needed the kevlar reinforced belt...well...definitely not need, but purple is bling and their marketing got to me.


And it's a good thing I decided to do timing before plopping the engine in. The old belt was pretty tattered up.


I also splurged on an RCM belt guide. Here's everything all buttoned up, including a new OEM water pump, ready for the covers to be reinstalled.



With that out of the way, a couple smaller things...I wired up the surge tank fuel pump. Well, halfway at least. It's connected under the car to two Radlock bulkhead quick disconnects. These are the smallest Radlock connectors on offer and still are a little big for this application. But I'm happy with how they came out. It did involve drilling and tapping the floor for 3mm screws which was tedious. I used a red and a blue aluminum anodized screw to indicate which is positive and negative.



I also installed a new fuel filler neck. This is a Rock Auto one, Spectra brand, but it was cheap and fits perfectly. Would definitely recommend.


Moving on to brake lines...after a bunch of research, I went with NiCop (nickel copper) brake line. There's basically no downside...It has the corrosion resistance of stainless, is super easy to work with (both bending and flaring) and is cheaper than stainless. It's a little soft on really long runs and can be hard to keep straight, but I used my tube straitener as I went and it came out really well. All fittings are stainless. The banjos, Tee's, and bulkheads are 3an and the connections to the flexible lines at each corner are M10x1mm (oem size). All the AN fittings use a 37 degree flare, and the OEM connections are using a 45 degree double flare. I used my Eastwood flaring tool and made it a breeze. Would highly recommend. Flexible lines on each corner are Stoptech braided stainless. Onto some photos!



Also installed new OEM clutch master, hard line, and a Goodrich stainless flexible clutch hose.





Really genuinely happy with how those came out. Still need to plumb up the rears, but I wanted to get the lines in the engine bay sorted before I put the engine in. With that out of the way, I finished up the clutch on the engine. This is a new ACT streetlight flywheel and OEM STi Exedy clutch.




And with that...She was ready to get craned in. Voila. We have an engine!


 

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Premium Member
98 RS | 98 L Wagon
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1,702 Posts
Discussion Starter · #499 ·
Fun fact...I only realized after reviewing my photos here that my engine and trans had no dowel pins in place. Womp. Guess I'll be taking it back out for that. Two steps forward, one step back.
 
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