haha they are kind of stupid but when you drive them you kind of forget.
Some random interim wheel changes. I went to visit my friend in Sacramento over Christmas break and he had his old wheels from his SRT4 days. Free 99, but its cost me some money to dismount his old tires, take off my PSS from my TE37s and mount them on the FN01RCs. The FN01RCs are pretty beat, but they hold high sentimental value for both me and my friend. All good though, I can finally send out my TE37s to get refinished.
Shot at work, next to Laguna Seca Blue E46 M3 :naughty:
The wheels are 18x7.5 +35 but with my 225/40/18 there's some bad rubbing on the driver side rear. I had the car re-aligned and had the rear camber maxed out at a whopping -0.9 driver -1.4 passenger. That's with the small slots on the Feal 441 mounting.
I put on my spare CE28 because of the rubbing. I've waited a few years for this but its only temporary.
I brought out my old Porter Cable 7424 (non-XP) and tried to do some detailing on the cars. The detailing world has changed a lot in recent years and most of my product from 2007-08 is either expired or just obsolete. Oh well, many hours later and here they are together. The BMW is about 95% swirl free and the Subaru...well lets say the paint is pretty old. I have to accept if I go for more correction, I will just remove too much clear to make it worthwhile. A repaint in the next few years isnt too far out of question either. I ordered FLEX 3401 and some more recent products so maybe I'll give the car stable another go. The Volt and BMW have some really hard paint.
As for the "build" goes, things like new roof moldings (installed securely and without dents this time!), dome light cover, brake/clutch pedal pads, AC recharge, and new battery are nothing special to add to a journal.
The 18 year old windshield roof moldings on my car were all dry-rotted and nasty. I had attempted to replace them in the past, but failed to mount them securely - even after bending the metal underneath with the end of my screwdriver (leaving lots of dimples/dings). Eventually the front one flew off on the freeway one night. I ordered two new ones determined not to have to remove my windshield to properly mount them.
The Front Molding is - 65023FA000
The Rear Molding is - 65123FA000
Part number for front
Bare (no molding)
Remove the included clips from the metal rail
Place the clips where the old ones used to be. The impressions left in the window seal are still there, and fit the clips snugly. I put blue tape to mark where the clips are.
Place the molding (with no clips) on top of the clips. Finesse the molding so it catches the clips in the metal rail. This is tricky, but if you get it right, the molding is secure and undamaged from excessive force. Be gentle, the metal is pretty delicate and bends/dents easily. I used a plastic putty knife.
For years and years I've wanted to get my Volks re-finished.
They were originally LE37 Gray face with machined lip. At some point in their lives they were re-painted silver by a mobile outfit. The paint appears brushed on or heavily scratched from automated car washes. I also accidentally curbed one coming out of a driveway with a raised curb.
The challenge was finding a reputable wheel repair business that had a CNC machine for diamond cut lips/faces. I finally found one in Santa Ana, CA - Wheel Repair Specialists. They even have a volk TE37 with a machined lip on their yelp front page. I wanted the wheels to be exactly like Smezmerz' TE37s when he was in Okinawa.
I also wanted to keep the original barrel and spoke stickers. Mind you, Rays/Volk sells each spoke set at $40 each wheel! That's without the inner date-of-birth stickers too. I searched "Volk inner barrel stickers" and came across a website of a guy in Malaysia. I contacted him on Facebook and he replied right away. I still felt like it could have been a scam, but the more he contacted me with info he needed and such, I felt more assured. 2 weeks later and still a hefty sum of money (for stickers) later, they arrived.
Got the wheels back - i wish i had asked to clear the whole wheel, but not a big deal that they didnt.
Oh man. thanks for the freehosting photobucket. I'm not even mad. Lets try this imgur hosting.
So this happened on my way home from work on 6/19/17. Two lane left turn lane, i'm in the right lane. Guy in older Dodge Caravan in left lane decides to go straight and doesn't see me during his decision to go straight. The bump was light, and the guy didn't even pull over, but he did stop at the next red light. Being that it was 2am, I just got his license plate and called the police. I'm finally posting about it now because the body shop was really busy, understaffed, pregnant wife, re-staffed, [fill-in-body-shop-excuse], etc, but today the car finally got sprayed in the booth.
Thanks to 181stLeader and Da5Dime for all their text messaging and guidance through this process.
Here's the timeline:
Quarter Damage and rear bumper damage nothing major.
The wheel didnt get hit and the suspension is fine. the wheel is loose because
I was getting my spare wheels put on.
Morning right before I dropped off the car at the body shop. I went with a local body shop because I've seen plenty of Subaru activity coming and going out of the shop as it is near my local freeway on-ramp. The reviews didn't look terrible online either. In the past, my go-to body shop is AutoExplosion in Gardena, but I just didn't want to drive that far.
I wanted to help them out and protect some of my hard-to-find parts, so I partially disassembled the car and gutted the interior and trunk - as I opted to have the side molding holes shaved as well.
Every time I drove by the shop, I could see the car had barely moved or had any work done to it. ONE MONTH!!!:curse:
Finally I see it being worked on. Looks like they took care of accident damage and started doing some of the cosmetic work and disassembly.
More work, possibly start doing the molding removal?
I was thinking at this point "yeah they're making slow steady progress, hopefully it'll be done in a couple weeks"
WRONG! I drove by the shop with the car in this same spot and condition for almost 3 weeks. I've been in the car game for a while and know how these things work. You can't rush the work, or it'll show in the final product. You can't give them free reign, or you'll never get a final product. It's a hard game to play.
After seeing the car sit, I had a stern talk with the shop guys about realistic time estimates. I knew they were understaffed and behind on timelines, but I just didn't want to keep hearing the generic "by the end of the week [fill-in-the-blank] should be done." I told them to be honest with me and if they were too busy I would pay them for the work already done and go somewhere else that could finish the car in a timely manner. I knew I couldnt be the only upset customer, as many of the cars that were there when I dropped the car off were still there with small progress.
I finally see more promising work my next visit. I forgot what this stage was called, but it was a thick coat of primer, and required a couple of days of curing time, so I was told. Once cured, final blocking could be done to the car.
At this point in time, there was a death in the family, so I really really wanted my car back to get my mind off of the grieving. Of course, the car sits in this state for too long.
The body shop actually called me the day before to say that the car was going into the paint booth. I had requested to see the car before to make sure everything was ready and correctly masked.
my Euro-market rear bumper (thanks Dave to the link to the guy in the UK)
front bumper, front lip, and rear bumper support waiting to be prepped (thanks Dave for the license plate lights).
I had to keep reminding them to smooth the rear fender lips, so they finally did it in this picture with one of their air hammer tools.
I was so happy to finally see actual work being done. On a Saturday no less.
yessss finally in the paint booth, the light at the end of the tunnel is shining. The last coats of clear were just laid before these pics were taken.
I haven't seen a car this quickly after painting in person, but it did seem that there were a lot of specks of dust or maybe bubbles? I read up on this, and its possibly because they laid the clear too thick, or didnt let it flash enough between coats? Hopefully wetsanding etc will leave a cleaner finish?
Maybe its one of those "dont look at how the sausage is made" kind of things? mg:
Either way I just hope it doesnt turn into another waiting game to get the bumpers and other loose parts painted. Then another waiting game to get it colorsanded and buffed. Or some other issue I cant tell yet (painted parts that werent masked correctly, engine bay, door jambs, suspension parts etc.
I feel so nervous about all of this. Like I waited all of this time, for only a sub-par paint job.
If all goes well, hopefully it'll be presentable for Subiefest on October 15? I only live 3 miles away, so I hope so.
My last visit saw them begin wet sanding the car, but I talked to the guys and we agreed that the original paint with all the bubbles and dust would need to be re-done. I'm not sure if they were covering up their mistakes/equipment, but either way I didnt want a sub-par end result.
Right before they were going to re-clear the car.
10/4/17 4:27PM I was muuuch happier with the clear this time around.
Finally seeing some work on the sideskirts and bumpers.
I need to repaint my STM also. How much did they charge you for all that? I live in San Diego though but if I know it will turn out good I might drive it up there in LA. BTW the car looks awesome just like 181stLeader's ride.
Thanks! I dont know if i would recommend them just yet on behalf of them taking so long. I will go over all the small details of the work done once I get the car back. As far as pricing I dont know what the final tally will be. I also had accident repair done, so I cant give an honest number if you are going for just a re-spray.
I've had my 2.5 RS a couple of months now and I've decided to start a build thread, hoping it's going to help me get this thing over the finish line.
This RS is my 4th Subaru
My first was a Catalunya special edition, the car I wish I still had, hence the mid-life crisis build :D
2nd was an...
picked me up another chassis. $600 and it runs, mostly!
Still have the ej20g, gearbox, RobTune and iWire harness, stance coilovers (I had just bought to replace my godspeed crap) and lots of other parts... so here we go again!
From the ashes, she will rise!
past build for...
I've had the car since 2003, so I guess I'll start one of these. 3rd owner, got her from Subaru of Thousand Oaks. I really wanted a RBP RS, but when I needed to get a car I could only find this BDP one. Slowly started modding it, and by 2006 she blew her head gaskets and my brother, my sister's...
HAPPY THANKSGIVING DAY
ID Vehicle: To simplify repairs/fixes/etc I'd love to know the cars history.
Main focus: handling, functionality, reliability.
End goal, yes the beaten horse "22b" exterior styling.
Technical Research (I'll post all my reading/research material links here)...